Alternator and Dual Batteries

[smkymntn]

I am getting the Hellroaring kit installed this weekend and have my current 55v alt- I am having a toyota oem 55 rewound to 80v, but it is not back yet. Should I just upgrade to something in the 125v to 150v range and cut to the chase? rather than trying to keep it OeM? I am currently running a stereo and off road lights. Future mods are air lockers and fridge.

 

[mrlocksmith]

I am running a Mean Green Alt and I am very happy with it for my dual batts to run my ham gear. You will not be able to to a feild rebuild if it dies on you though. You will also not be able to jump start another car with it.


Here is my HellRoring setup:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/213526-write-up-fj60-dual-battery-install.html

HTH

Mark

 

[ntsqd]

If you turned on everything (except a winch) what would the total draw be? Figure 15-20 amps more than that for normal use. Only really need the killer alts if doing car stereo comps, extensive/competitive winching, etc.

 

[smkymntn]

Ok good- I just picked up my rewound toyota alt that is now putting out about 100v. Should be more than adequate for my needs right now.

 

[REKCUT]

Another option if you have desmoged your truck is to replace the smog pump with a second alt. I run all my factory stuff on the stock setup and all aftermarket items on a independant alt and battery. I can also jump start myself and recharge a battery for someone on the trail that looses a alt.

 

[smkymntn]

I will also look into that- right now I have the SOR pulley in place of smog pump

 

[Cruzerman]

I'm a huge fan of Leece Neville alternators. Commonly used on ambulances, big rigs, etc. Big, heavy duty, and not too expensive. I've had mine on the rig for years with big radio equipment. No issues.

Be careful of modified alternators. The issue isn't getting more amps out of them but keeping them cool. They don't have addequate cooling. Output goes down as they heat up. And so does life expectancy. If you want / need a 160 - 200 amp alternator, don't convert a 60 amp unit. Get one that was designed for it. JMHO.

 

[smkymntn]

That is a concern I have- I may just keep the 55 on there for now and see how it does and use the 100v as a backup only.

 

[woytovich]

I'm a huge fan of Leece Neville alternators. Commonly used on ambulances, big rigs, etc. Big, heavy duty, and not too expensive. I've had mine on the rig for years with big radio equipment. No issues.

Can you give specifics regarding LN model/fitment/wiring/pulley arrangements? THis is on a 2F?

 

[smkymntn]

X2 on Leece Neville model - that sounds like a good way to go. Hopefully they are for 2F which is what I have

 

[Trollhole]

X2 on Leece Neville model - that sounds like a good way to go. Hopefully they are for 2F which is what I have

Adam you can always go to a CS 130 alt if you need more juice. Personally with 2 batteries and no winch I don't think you need more than 100 amps if that. Once you get over 100-120 amps the systems that can control dual batteries become limited. Try the rewound one and keep the other one as a spare on the trail. Remember you have two batteries. I doubt you would ever have an issue even if the alt died. One thing you can do is switch all your lights over to LED except for the headlights. Give you a little more free power. Especially if you are on the road and have charging issues. I left my LEDs on in my 40 for a week and they never killed the battery. I also drove to Tellico and back and wheeled and played the radio and ran the lights for an hr on two batteries. With a 60 all you really need is spark to keep running. There is a lot of spark in a battery.


I run a 1 wire CS130 that was built to 180amps and two red top batteries. Way overkill. If I had to do it again I'd just opt for a stock 95-100 amp CS130.

 

[smkymntn]

So you dont think i will have any heat issues with the 100amp with the dual setup? As i understand it the dual batteries take alot of the pressure off of the alternator, so it acts as a trickle charger to a degree. Am I correct in this assumption?

As for LEDs I am already looking into to switch all of my driving, signal, reverse and brake lights to LED.

I just got my OEM starter from Ralph hayes. I hope to put it in tonight if the rain stops- Is it as easy as it seems> at 17mm and a 12mm?

 

[IndianDoc]

New Starter

Good to know that you won't be looking for hills to park that beauty on when you get the new starter in, It's really a easy job even Doc can do it, then anybody should be able to!!!

 

[Trollhole]

So you dont think i will have any heat issues with the 100amp with the dual setup? As i understand it the dual batteries take alot of the pressure off of the alternator, so it acts as a trickle charger to a degree. Am I correct in this assumption?

As for LEDs I am already looking into to switch all of my driving, signal, reverse and brake lights to LED.

I just got my OEM starter from Ralph hayes. I hope to put it in tonight if the rain stops- Is it as easy as it seems> at 17mm and a 12mm?

Doubt you will have any issues with a 100 apm alt.

 

[ntsqd]

I recently converted my '84 Xcab to a CS-130. Used one intended for my '91 Suburban which is reportedly a 104 amp version. Without a winch I just don't see needing more than that.

That said, I did see something somewhere that talked about charge regulators that were "good" to batteries (i.e. smart about how they charged and floated a battery) and those that weren't. The Toyota regulator was considered to be a fairly good one for an OE surface vehicle regulator.