Alternator and Battery Questions (2 Viewers)

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Joined
May 15, 2014
Threads
10
Messages
35
Location
Lincoln, CA
Hi, hope somebody can help me troubleshoot. I've read a bunch of posts and can't find my exact situation. My wife's LX recently had the battery light come on, and eventually the battery died. Of course we were on the coast above San Francisco about 150 miles from home. The battery light came on and the battery gauge was noticeably lower, but above the half way mark. We drove another 30 miles maybe trying to figure out what to do or where to end up if we were to have a dead battery and be stranded. The gauge then dropped below the half way mark, then a bit more and all the lights came on across the dash, and we lost power and luckily made it to a decent place to call for help. We could not restart as the battery was dead.

My initial assumption is this is the alternator. I recently replaced mine in my 100 series. Similar situation, battery light came on, however I had high pitched whine for a couple weeks prior so I was expecting it.

One thing my wife has been dealing with. The negative battery terminal connection has been very bad, it's in a way where it won't tighten all the way down on the terminal and stay tightly connected. When we bought it, there was no battery strap holding the battery in place. The battery would bounce and slide around. We didn't realize this until the car wouldn't start. Thought it was dead battery, but turned out she just had to wiggle the connection and she could then start it. She's had to do this a few times over the past couple months. I've put grease and tightened the connection but obvious it needs a better fix with new cable and connector, just haven't got to that. The day the car died, the connection was quite loose. I could pretty easily slide it off the battery.

So my question, before assuming alternator, could the loose connection at the battery terminal be the problem? I assume the alternator charges the battery while running and bad connection could prevent that? I'm still learning, this may be a dumb question. The tow truck driver gave it a change to drive it on the truck and brought it home. It has started up since. I plan to drive it down to have the neighborhood parts store check the battery and alternator but wanted to check here as well. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 
Multi-meter will check the voltage of your battery, but only 'load testing' it will tell for certain if it is any good.

Likewise..using a multi-meter to test the voltage output of your alternator could be done.

And lastly....CHANGE the battery terminal connection (and lead if necessary) and stop putting it off.

Why would you let your Wife drive around like that? :(
 
Hi, hope somebody can help me troubleshoot. I've read a bunch of posts and can't find my exact situation. My wife's LX recently had the battery light come on, and eventually the battery died. Of course we were on the coast above San Francisco about 150 miles from home. The battery light came on and the battery gauge was noticeably lower, but above the half way mark. We drove another 30 miles maybe trying to figure out what to do or where to end up if we were to have a dead battery and be stranded. The gauge then dropped below the half way mark, then a bit more and all the lights came on across the dash, and we lost power and luckily made it to a decent place to call for help. We could not restart as the battery was dead.

My initial assumption is this is the alternator. I recently replaced mine in my 100 series. Similar situation, battery light came on, however I had high pitched whine for a couple weeks prior so I was expecting it.

One thing my wife has been dealing with. The negative battery terminal connection has been very bad, it's in a way where it won't tighten all the way down on the terminal and stay tightly connected. When we bought it, there was no battery strap holding the battery in place. The battery would bounce and slide around. We didn't realize this until the car wouldn't start. Thought it was dead battery, but turned out she just had to wiggle the connection and she could then start it. She's had to do this a few times over the past couple months. I've put grease and tightened the connection but obvious it needs a better fix with new cable and connector, just haven't got to that. The day the car died, the connection was quite loose. I could pretty easily slide it off the battery.

So my question, before assuming alternator, could the loose connection at the battery terminal be the problem? I assume the alternator charges the battery while running and bad connection could prevent that? I'm still learning, this may be a dumb question. The tow truck driver gave it a change to drive it on the truck and brought it home. It has started up since. I plan to drive it down to have the neighborhood parts store check the battery and alternator but wanted to check here as well. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Last year I tried to start my vehicle and I had the same issue. I twisted the terminal and made it home. A bad connection can prevent the alternator from charging the battery. Here is a post I made about mine.

Positive Battery Terminal Help
 
Multi-meter will check the voltage of your battery, but only 'load testing' it will tell for certain if it is any good.

Likewise..using a multi-meter to test the voltage output of your alternator could be done.

And lastly....CHANGE the battery terminal connection (and lead if necessary) and stop putting it off.

Why would you let your Wife drive around like that? :(

Yeah I didn't exactly lay the timeline out that great. The original problem was the lack of battery strap holding it in place. That is what caused the original problems. That is when she had problems starting it. Once I realized that issue I ordered the strap and got the battery secure and tightened the terminals. It has been good since. With this latest issue, this is the first time since I tightened everything down there has been a problem. It became very loose, but wasn't doing the not starting so we didn't know. I will replace asap.
 
Yeah I didn't exactly lay the timeline out that great. The original problem was the lack of battery strap holding it in place. That is what caused the original problems. That is when she had problems starting it. Once I realized that issue I ordered the strap and got the battery secure and tightened the terminals. It has been good since. With this latest issue, this is the first time since I tightened everything down there has been a problem. It became very loose, but wasn't doing the not starting so we didn't know. I will replace asap.

Gotcha. Thank You for the clarification. Thought maybe you just didn't like your Wife. ;)
 
Hi, hope somebody can help me troubleshoot. I've read a bunch of posts and can't find my exact situation. My wife's LX recently had the battery light come on, and eventually the battery died. Of course we were on the coast above San Francisco about 150 miles from home. The battery light came on and the battery gauge was noticeably lower, but above the half way mark. We drove another 30 miles maybe trying to figure out what to do or where to end up if we were to have a dead battery and be stranded. The gauge then dropped below the half way mark, then a bit more and all the lights came on across the dash, and we lost power and luckily made it to a decent place to call for help. We could not restart as the battery was dead.

My initial assumption is this is the alternator. I recently replaced mine in my 100 series. Similar situation, battery light came on, however I had high pitched whine for a couple weeks prior so I was expecting it.

One thing my wife has been dealing with. The negative battery terminal connection has been very bad, it's in a way where it won't tighten all the way down on the terminal and stay tightly connected. When we bought it, there was no battery strap holding the battery in place. The battery would bounce and slide around. We didn't realize this until the car wouldn't start. Thought it was dead battery, but turned out she just had to wiggle the connection and she could then start it. She's had to do this a few times over the past couple months. I've put grease and tightened the connection but obvious it needs a better fix with new cable and connector, just haven't got to that. The day the car died, the connection was quite loose. I could pretty easily slide it off the battery.

So my question, before assuming alternator, could the loose connection at the battery terminal be the problem? I assume the alternator charges the battery while running and bad connection could prevent that? I'm still learning, this may be a dumb question. The tow truck driver gave it a change to drive it on the truck and brought it home. It has started up since. I plan to drive it down to have the neighborhood parts store check the battery and alternator but wanted to check here as well. Any thoughts? Thanks!


Change Both Terminals Today !

they Don't come with the 12mm ( Tool ) Hex Nuts , Install 2 stainless steel ones along with Lock washers

I have been using both of these for years and never any issues once installed properly


- Positive Terminal 90982-05035

- Negative Terminal 90982-06022


T1.Nm2Xq0iXXXXXXXX_!!0-item_pic.jpg


 
Yeah I didn't exactly lay the timeline out that great. The original problem was the lack of battery strap holding it in place. That is what caused the original problems. That is when she had problems starting it. Once I realized that issue I ordered the strap and got the battery secure and tightened the terminals. It has been good since. With this latest issue, this is the first time since I tightened everything down there has been a problem. It became very loose, but wasn't doing the not starting so we didn't know. I will replace asap.

If everything is bolted down tight, use a multimeter to check voltage when the car is off and on. Voltage should be about 12.2 when off and, with my cheap alternator, at about 13.5 when on. That will at least tell you if the alternator is no good.

But Flintknapper is right, only load testing will tell you if the battery is good.

Good luck.
 
What am I missing. All the pictures of the negative OEM terminal connector look like the same style as the positive. Both my wife's and mine are different style between positive and negative. My negative connector seems like I'd have to cut the wire to replace with another, while the positive looks like all the pictures of the OEM parts that have been listed. You can see this connector is in awful shape.

batteryconnect.jpg
 
It looks as if your negative terminal has been replaced at some time with an aftermarket part. And possibly one intended for the positive side.

The positive post is a larger diameter than the negative post..so they take different sizes..but are otherwise the same construction.

You'll want to find the correct negative terminal.

Batt Terminals.jpg
 
Thanks. Would anyone know the additional part that I would need. I assume I'd need to remove the current aftermarket connector and add the part to the cable that would attach over that bolt sticking up on the OEM terminal connector.
 
Thanks. Would anyone know the additional part that I would need. I assume I'd need to remove the current aftermarket connector and add the part to the cable that would attach over that bolt sticking up on the OEM terminal connector.

You will need a nut of correct pitch to fit the stud on the new terminal.
 
I put a multimeter on it. With the bad negative terminal connector, 12.2 off, 11.2 or so and dropping slowly when running. But, when off, I could only get the 12.2 reading when touching battery posts, when touching nearly anywhere on the negative connector, there was no reading. It seemed the battery and connector weren't passing much of any current.

I changed out the terminal connector, 12.2 off, around 11.6 when running, but held steady. I thought alternator, but realized I never charged battery fully after it died. Put battery on charger overnight.

Tested again this morning, 13.2 off, settled at 13.85 when running, with brights and interior lights on. Since the battery was just off a fresh charge, I then turned car off and left brights and interior lights on for awhile. Tested again, off tested 12.6 off, dropped to 11.5 at ignition and 13.85 when running.

This seems to suggest alternator is working I believe. What else should I be checking? Having battery checked? I plan to change out positive connector next.

Thanks!
 
It looks as if your negative terminal has been replaced at some time with an aftermarket part. And possibly one intended for the positive side.

The positive post is a larger diameter than the negative post..so they take different sizes..but are otherwise the same construction.

You'll want to find the correct negative terminal.

View attachment 1758187

Thanks mate, I need to replace my negative terminal - very similar situation to the person starting the thread (except I like my wife!)
 
It is different than mine...is all I can say.

Neg terminal.jpg
 

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