Almost Done

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by GLTHFJ60, Jul 30, 2005.

  1. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    My truck is a 1987 FJ60, and as some of you know, I am in the middle of changing the intake/exhaust manifolds. I decided to change them because the PO's mechanic told him that the intake manifold was cracked, which explained the engine's inability to idle. I took them off a couple of days ago only to realize that neither the intake, exhaust nor the head were cracked.

    But in better news, in removing the supposedly broken manifolds, I found out that one of the studs that holds the exhaust gas return pipe was missing. It is located on the bottom of the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine. So I will be replacing the manifolds after all. I would have everything back together by now, but I need to find a gasket for that pipe. Does anyone know where I can find it in short time?

    As for other potential problems, I am not sure why the truck would not idle correctly. I'm guessing that it could have been a bad gasket, I hope, but it could have been something else. The PO said that the radiator had been clogged twice, causing the truck to overheat on a trip to Tennesse where they continued to drive it, but with the heaters on. This also provided cause to replace the radiator twice. What else could this have caused?

    :beer:
     
  2. FJ60Cam

    FJ60Cam Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    I bought one at Spector by looking at the diagrams to figure which pieces I needed.
     
  3. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    How about another question that I just thought of...

    The heat tube that goes down from the air inlet on the air filter assembly on my truck fell apart when I took the assembly out. I was not sure whether or not that part was necessary to replace or not. Any insight? It goes down to a bracket that is bolted to the exhaust manifold that I guess collects warm air when the engine is cold to help warm it up.

    :beer:
     
  4. hj60

    hj60

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    In NY, you'd probably be better off with it than without.
    But at the same time, I wouldn't worry too much if you can't afford it or can't find it.
    Heater duct works pretty well as a replacement, too.
     
  5. dogboy2

    dogboy2

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    you're going to want to replace that piece of ducting hose -- it's part of the Hot Air Intake system and "brings hot air to the carburetor in cold weather to improve driveability and to prevent the carburetor from icing in extremely cold weather" (quote courtesy of Toyota Emission Control Repair Manual)

    hth,
    -dogboy- '87 FJ60
     
  6. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I'll order that then.

    As for the gaskets inbetween the two manifolds, Fel-Pro sent me two gaskets to go inbetween the manifolds along with the manifold to head gasket. Can I use only the two, or do I need to get a third?

    :beer:
     
  7. chitown40

    chitown40

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    The sequence from bottom to top is: Exhaust manifold, gasket, heat shield, gasket, intake manifold. So, yes, you only need the two. There should only be one head to intake gasket and make sure you put it on dry, i.e. no RTV or other goop. I'd torque it about 10lbs. more than the manual says. Something like 40ft/lbs.
     
  8. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Ok, cool. I'll reuse the heat shield from the manifolds when I take them apart. I still need to buy that damn EGR pipe gasket though, as well as a carb insulator, so unfortunately, the LC will stay in the garage for a bit longer.

    Any tips for torquing the last bolt on the body side of the manifold, you know, that SOB that is nestled under a bunch of hoses and behind the throttle bracket?

    :beer:
     
  9. chitown40

    chitown40

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    Take off the linkage to get to the bolt so you can torque it correctly. You only want do it once so make sure it's nice and tight.
     
  10. Tinker

    Tinker

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    Hate to come in so late with this, but did you check the manifolds for warping?
     
  11. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I'm planning on doing that before I install them. I'm not using the original set because of a couple of broken studs, but I will check my new set. Thanks Tinker!

    :beer:
     
  12. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Tinker,

    I just checked my old set, and they had an arc that provided a 1/8" to 1/6" gap on one side. I take it that that number is fairly great in terms of engines. I checked my new set of manifolds (on some flat garage concrete) and they seemed perfectly flat. I'll get a true bar and check that more accurately.

    I just called a local Toyota dealer to find out whether or not my truck (1987 FJ60) needed to be emissions tested, and it dosen't. So, while I have it all apart, I will proceed to do a desmog of my truck. I have some material, but I would like more, and if available, some personal experience. At the same time, I am researching on what entails running only the alternator and waterpump, like beaufort-FJ60 on this thread, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=54269, but I am not sure if eliminating the PS is practical. I am going to be making periodic trips to Buffalo and back, so I'm not sure. Any advice would be great.

    :beer:
     
  13. chitown40

    chitown40

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    If you have all of the smog stuff, I'd say just put it all back on. It's easy to do with a good diagram and it will make reselling later on (if you decide to) a helluva a lot easier since more and more states are going to smog testing. Just my .02 again.
     
  14. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Right, but as this truck ages, it becomes even less eligible to be smog tested. I don't want to have to deal with any of those systems failing and having to tear it out later, nor do I want to have to go through and repair things as necessary, i.e. silicon vacuum lines. Also, because I have everything apart already, I think that I will just remove it now.

    I want to because I finally got around to calling a Toyota dealership to ask a mechanic whether or not it needed to be tested in NY. He said no, which means, RIP IT OFF. I would prefer to run as few unnecessary items off of the engine as necessary.

    As for me selling the truck, it is my first, and I plan on driving it until the frame rots out, which hopefully won't happen. Thank you chitown40 for asking questions, that is definately what I need, no sarcasm.

    So, back to the initial question, anyone with advice?

    :beer:
     
  15. chitown40

    chitown40

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    All very good points, but don't take the Toyota mechanic's word as gospel. Check with the state EPA or Vehicle Services Dept. for the final word.
     
  16. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Wow, I definately didn't think of that. I'll check right now.

    THANKS A MILLION!!!

    :beer:
     
  17. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I stand corrected. I guess that I will be putting everything back together as it came from the factory. Chitown40, thanks for pointing that out. Now to buy the final parts, and it will drive, in theory....

    :beer:
     
  18. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I forgot to say, I sincerely thank you for saving my truck. I'll make sure to do more research before I jump into mods. Thank you.

    :beer:
     
  19. chitown40

    chitown40

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    Just remember stock isn't so bad if it's all working. A lot of guys on here got their trucks after the P.O.'s butchered them up, so many of them are desmogged because it is easier to put on a weber than to collect all of the expensive hard to find smog parts. Also, many of them run their rigs primarily off road or in a state that does not require emissions testing. When I got my rig, it had a cracked intake manifold, a VERY dirty and well used carb, and a stuck valve. I did a lot of reading, got some help from guys on here, and then took my time and dove in head first. After studying the FSM emissions manual and reading a TON of posts on here, I learned how all the systems on my truck worked. Very intimidating at first, but after you read about them and understand what and why they do what they do, it's really not all that difficult to put back together and/or troubleshoot. If you have all your smog parts, just take a few extra days to understand each system as you put it together. I did all the work myself (except machine shop work) including rebuilding the carb (my first one), replacing the manifolds and head, and troubleshooting a few nasty vac leaks. Now I am proud to say that I got my 60 running as good as new and I learned something along the way. Just take your time and learn to use the search function on here....it's invaluable as most questions you will have have been covered in quite a few threads, including some started by me when I was doing the major work on my truck. Once you get your truck running right, and you've decided that the advantages of being de-smogged outweight the advantages of keeping the emissions parts on, then go ahead with it.

    Good luck and take your time with it. Make sure each step you take is done right so you don't have to rip it all apart again. Also make sure when you install all of the vac hard lines that the other stuff that bolts together with it is in place. Often times you forget something and it requires you to take off a bunch of parts to put it back on correctly. Ask me how I know. :)
     
  20. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I can't thank you enough for the advice that you've given me. I will make sure to do more research before I put any more work into my car. Sincerely, thank you.

    Now I need to buy an exhaust doughnut and that pipe gasket, and then it goes back together. After that, a new suspension awaits. Thank you chitown40.

    :beer:
     
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