All you long-distance FJ40 drivers

POPO AGIE

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I don't remember mine being too hot, but I do remember my 71 Bronco was really hot. I did take the top to go up to Horseshoe lake in the Wind Rivers and it snowed.
 

65swb45

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MANY years ago a cruiser buddy of mine gave me a hunk of an old conveyor belt he had got ahold of. 1/2” multilayered rubber, crosswoven. After filling the wells in the floor with RamMat to come up even with the ridges, I cut sections of rubber with a large utility knife, then covered the sandwich with indoor/outdoor carpeting.

I did it for noise, but it has a good effect on heat as well. As does a direct drive radiator fan instead of clutch drive.😉
 

BarnFab

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With all the talk about longer journeys in these tanks we own, I think the most uncomfortable aspect of both my ‘76 and less so my ‘78 is heat. Anyone else have this at the top of reasons to not take too long of a trip? In another thread also about heat and how to limit its ingress into the floorboards and past the firewall making the cab uncomfortable. Just my two cents👍

My BJ46 with factory floor mats and grommets, A/C on in 100 plus sun and she is more than comfy :) I just turn the vents to point to the driver . Any of the after market A/C head units probably do a better job that factory so throw in some dynamat etc and it would be even better

2019-11-12 22.04.20.jpg
 

Josey1972

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Oct 28, 2016
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Indiana
  • Kick vents !! They really help to refresh the lower part of the cabin.
  • OEM rubber mat, it is a small difference but it makes a difference in heat and noise.
  • Adding a piece of tire tube over the PTO hole, that thing is a heat gun on full blast pointed toward the driver leg.
  • Open the hatch, during summer I'll do it everywhere except on Freeway, combined with front windows open that will provide a huge continuous blow of air from the back, almost like driving a convertible.
  • Front quarter windows, they reduce a lot the wind turbulence around the front windows when driving at speed so you have less issue opening them.
  • Speed. If you don't move even the fresh air fan will ends up shooting you hot air in your face. If you drive on a slow trail for hours the floor may ends burning hot but if you are on road the heat move away from under the car. Sadly you generally can't do much to change this point in a given time x)
Agreed on the vents, they work great. I dont have heat or AC so I plan to put a removable cap over the holes in the firewall. Take it off in the winter And leave it on in the summer. I’m running a Bestop. You guys with the hard tops I understand your frustration. I am considering clamping a car fan (cigarette lighter plug) to the truck for wheeling. It does get warm around the feet. I used to prefer to drive bare footed but in a Land Cruiser I have to keep at least sadals on shield by feets from the heats. Another way would be to go topless, put the windshield down and wear goggles!
 

Josey1972

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MANY years ago a cruiser buddy of mine gave me a hunk of an old conveyor belt he had got ahold of. 1/2” multilayered rubber, crosswoven. After filling the wells in the floor with RamMat to come up even with the ridges, I cut sections of rubber with a large utility knife, then covered the sandwich with indoor/outdoor carpeting.

I did it for noise, but it has a good effect on heat as well. As does a direct drive radiator fan instead of clutch drive.😉
This is a great idea. I did a similar thing with plank flooring insulation in my 80. It helped. Would you have any pictures? I have some old weight room rubber that I might consider using. I still have some dynamat left from another project but I’m not crazy about adhering anything to the tub of a vehicle that will get rain in the floors.
 

G-Cat

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Georgia
Dump a 10 pound bag of ice on the floorboards during long, hot drives…open the kick vents and you have A/C
 

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