All the reasons why you don't buy a steering rack anywhere else but Toyota (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

hickuptruck

hickuptruck

Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Threads
32
Messages
1,293
Location
❄️☃️
I bought a Detroit Axle steering rack back in December. 5000 miles later, foolish me. I didn't have the funds as it was all going towards AHC delete. Between putting Whiteline poly bushings and now new 555 inner tie rods on it today, I could've been $150 away from an OEM Toyota rack. No headaches! This is one of the most PITA jobs on the 100 series, and now I have to do it again!

Well, first thing is that the inner tie rods that come with the rack don't articulate as much as OEM or 555 inners, and are made of the cheapest metals. Enough suspension downtravel and it binds on the inner tie rod for accelerated wear on the rack bushings. Below is a comparison pic of the cheap tie rod vs the 555 made in Japan one. The DA one is made of the some of the cheapest metals known to man. The 555s look like there's at least another 10-12 degrees of movement.

So that brought me to replace the inners with 555s. Well, when I went to pull the boot off, a bunch of steering fluid just leaked out everywhere. Was an unexpected surprise! I've put 5000 miles on this rack. And yes, when I installed, I put Dex6 for steering fluid.

So how long can I run this rack for? Or rather how much longer? I really don't want to spend a summer day or couple of days changing the rack out yet again. Quite frankly, I never want to do a rack replacement again on another 100.

20190814_193602.jpg


20190814_192545.jpg
 
Last edited:
I too may be redoing my rack. I went with the one on Amazon. I have some slop and variance in the wheel centering. If I Turn to full crank left. The wheel wants to stay a little left. A quick jerk to the right though, and it’s centered.

What were you seeing that led you to do the inners. You say it was binding but did you feel this or research it and do it as preventative?

As far as how long to run the rack, I guess it would depend on the source of the leak, right?
 
OEM always is what everyone says with some leeway if buying unbranded Toyota part direct from the OEM supplier, but then you see posts like this and you understand why its always best to go OEM. Thanks for the reminder!
 
brownfox said:
I too may be redoing my rack. I went with the one on Amazon. I have some slop and variance in the wheel centering. If I Turn to full crank left. The wheel wants to stay a little left. A quick jerk to the right though, and it’s centered.

What were you seeing that led you to do the inners. You say it was binding but did you feel this or research it and do it as preventative?

As far as how long to run the rack, I guess it would depend on the source of the leak, right?
Click to expand...


Going thru some washboards or bumpy farm fields, I could feel bumps through my steering wheel. Jacked up the wheels, and took off tie rod from knuckle, and yep...it was at maximum down. I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem on grocery getters/urban 100s, but I do take my LX down a lot of ungraded gravel roads.

You can even see in the second pic how little downwards angle there is compared to where the steering knuckle should be sitting.

Telling you man, even with all the pics and evidence. Detroit Axle stuff is garbage. Also got a rebuild CV from there that spewed grease on install.
 
Also, I could use recommendations where the cheapest OEM Toyota New rack would be. I've seen previous posts on here that there are some for $550-600 shipped.

Camelback Toyota is what im remembering?
 
Blah blah OEM. But Toyota doesn’t make the rack right? Someone has to make it for them. Do they really have exclusivity to it? There must be an equivalent out there.

I bought Moog outer ends and 555s are what showed up. Perhaps I’m off base with my philosophy, but I look at it this way. I’ve seen countless items at harbor freight that are identical to others at Home Depot, Lowe’s, and they are cheaper at HF.
 
brownfox said:
Blah blah OEM. But Toyota doesn’t make the rack right? Someone has to make it for them. Do they really have exclusivity to it? There must be an equivalent out there.

I bought Moog outer ends and 555s are what showed up. Perhaps I’m off base with my philosophy, but I look at it this way. I’ve seen countless items at harbor freight that are identical to others at Home Depot, Lowe’s, and they are cheaper at HF.
Click to expand...

LOL, when I say 555s that I bought, I actually bought MOOGs because in the Rockauto pic of them, you can clearly see they're 555. But theres some garbage out there thats not Japanese made, and probably Chinese. A lot of new Chinese racks out there, and I took a chance going DA because I thought it was reman, and an old OEM unit. However, DA is just as bad as crap out there despite them saying reman in USA etc etc.
 
Toyota makes their rack and you should see toyoda logo. All parts except light bulbs are made by toyota owned manufacturer. Tjey make parts so good, even BMW x3 uses denso made power window switches and probably the rest as well.
 
hickuptruck said:
Going thru some washboards or bumpy farm fields, I could feel bumps through my steering wheel. Jacked up the wheels, and took off tie rod from knuckle, and yep...it was at maximum down. I'm sure this wouldn't be a problem on grocery getters/urban 100s, but I do take my LX down a lot of ungraded gravel roads.

You can even see in the second pic how little downwards angle there is compared to where the steering knuckle should be sitting.

Telling you man, even with all the pics and evidence. Detroit Axle stuff is garbage. Also got a rebuild CV from there that spewed grease on install.
Click to expand...
DA stuff is crap. See my post on their CV axles.
 
95Fantasma80 said:
OEM always is what everyone says with some leeway if buying unbranded Toyota part direct from the OEM supplier, but then you see posts like this and you understand why its always best to go OEM. Thanks for the reminder!
Click to expand...

And you can see a post like this......

I used a MasterPro from Oreillys with Whiteline bushings many miles ago and have had no issues at all.
 
McGeorge Toyota Parts depending on your location because you pay the shipping costs. I've used them for several years.

Steering rack was $477 and change. OEM
 
planomateo said:
Sneaky, they have two sites...one for $477 and another for $480.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize you posted a link to McGeorge right before I commented. You and I are on the same page, but I'd go with your link and save $3. 🍺
 
Good timing. I have to order a new rack in the next week or two. My 21 year old 230k mile rack has finally given up (leaking fluid like crazy). Going to be an expensive August for me as I need a new radiator and rotors as well.....YIKES!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Blue Phoenix
Steering Rack replacement - What else to fix/ replace?
Replies
3
Views
1K
Jack90210
Jack90210
FlyingRN
Steering Rack Bushings
Replies
9
Views
1K
2001LC
2001LC
albertliang3
Lx470 steering rack leaking AGAIN. Need some help to determine whether it’s lose bolt or something else.
Replies
1
Views
290
2001LC
2001LC
ChuckE baby
Steering rack boot replacement
Replies
10
Views
1K
ChuckE baby
ChuckE baby

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom