All needles on dashboard went dead

[Snook]

After we worked with ARB compressors switches, the dashboard's power went dead.

All RPM, Gas meter, Volts, Temp and Speedmeter needles dropped to "Zero". During driving, no movement of needles.

Same goes for "Check Engine" and VSC LED during engine starting, nothing.

Only things that light up during the engine starting is Airbag and Door Opening LED verfication.

The engine is running normal and all electronic device such as radio, a/c, clock and turn signals is working normal.

All fuses under front hoods is checked fine. Same for all fuses in the lower panel on driver side.

Any suggestion?

Regards,

 

[maximBJ70]

yup...double, triple and quadruple check your fuses...all of them

 

[KathmanduCruiser]

This happened to me a few days after I bought my LC a few months ago. It happened only once. It was very cold that day. It was easily below -30 that day. Nothing of that sort has happened since.

After we worked with ARB compressors switches, the dashboard's power went dead.

All RPM, Gas meter, Volts, Temp and Speedmeter needles dropped to "Zero". During driving, no movement of needles.

Same goes for "Check Engine" and VSC LED during engine starting, nothing.

Only things that light up during the engine starting is Airbag and Door Opening LED verfication.

The engine is running normal and all electronic device such as radio, a/c, clock and turn signals is working normal.

All fuses under front hoods is checked fine. Same for all fuses in the lower panel on driver side.

Any suggestion?

Regards,

 

[Seth_O]

Same issue with my '68 FJ40. First the fuel gauge went, a month or so later the temp went, followed shortly by the oil pressure. I didn't do any work on any of them, and assumed it was age and that I would need to replace the gauges. Would love to hear if someone know's of a solution.

 

[i4c4lo]

We double checked all fuses and relays (swapping with another 100 Series) - they are 2 areas where fuses are - one inside the engine area and one by the drivers left foot.

It was about 70 degrees yesterday (Saturday) - I looked in the FSM and I didn't see anything that might help - we went to the dealer (service was closing so they didn't want to help other than "you need to make an appoinment") the parts guy showed us all the diagrams that might have something to do with fuses and relays for the dash area and we did go through all the fuses and relays.

Any other ideas?

Thank you.

 

[100 TD]

There are fuses on both sides behind the panels at left and the other side of the vehicle at right.

 

[100 TD]

Al guages are fed from the one fuse in a 2002 schematic, the 15A guage fuse which is located next to the 20 diff fuse on the schematic, these are fed from the IGNITION relay, which is fed from an 80Amp fuse in the main fuse box, which powers up SOME of the kick panel junction box, pull the guage fuse and make sure you have power there and check the fuse, if you have had problems previously, I suspect a connector corroded or not plugged in properly, start at the kick panel Jbox and go from there, pull the trim from around the gauges and tighten the bottom four bolts that hold the connectors to the back of the guages.
EDIT Ignition relay feed

 

[100 TD]

Looks like I have replied to 2 different users problems, no matter, result is same, I suspect you shorted something or pulled a connector which was loose. Do the same checks as I have listed and see how you go. I am expect the 2002 schematic will be nearly identical to the 2000, except for the additional equipment that was added in the later years. I can not confirm this but do the checks the same.

 

[100 TD]

There is also a fuse for the SRS light, the alternator light and also a 20 amp ECU fuse which feeds the door light but the GUAGE fuse appears to feed all gauges, VSC lights, fuel lights, ECT, O/D, A/T lights etc

 

[Snook]

Yes, youre right. It is "Gauge" 15 amps that blew out!

Cheers,

 

[100 TD]

Al guages are fed from the one fuse in a 2002 schematic, the 15A guage fuse .....

Glad it helped you out

 

[100 TD]

OH, and I conceed to the typo 1 key before the other gUAge/ gAUge!!!

 

[rockclmbr]

Jay,

Did replacing the fuse with a new one correct your problem or did it continue to blow fuses? Why did it blow in the first place?

Glad you found it!

-JJ

 

[Snook]

Jay,

Did replacing the fuse with a new one correct your problem or did it continue to blow fuses? Why did it blow in the first place?

Glad you found it!

-JJ

No it didn't blew afterward.

Just like your wrench touching both of the battery lugs while turning then it got "fused"!

Similair thing happened when Amando and I were trying to test which wires works with Dual locker switches and that's how it happened when we crossed the wrong wires of ARB air compressor.

The ARB air compressor should have delicated fuse so I will get other fuse panels for offroads devices.

One thing surprised me is that once the "Gauge" fuse (15 amps) is offline, it cause the motor to sputtered and died in a minute and the new battery got "drained" overnight. So the "Gauge" system is more critical than just power up the dashboard needles.

And unlike the 80, there is no spare slot to put extra fuses in the panels.

Cheers,

 

[Jim_Chow]

Often when this happens, one mistakingly touched one wire to another to create a short in the system while modifyin the wiring. I've done this on my 4runner...blew the same fuse twice within a few minutes. After that, I just pulled the fuse while doing the work, plugged it in after. This is probably what one should do (or pull the battery cables) to avoid this predicament.