All excited about the e-locker & then I noticed this... Back to the Excitement (1 Viewer)

[ugamurph]

Update: This thread was initially started as a cry for help. Since the help came quickly and the problem became an opportunity, the thread has transitioned into a mini build thread documenting what it took to add an OEM e-locker to my 2001 4Runner. Enjoy.


I was planning on wrapping up my e-locker conversion this weekend. The wiring needed for the harness has been ordered and will be here Saturday. The rear locked axle has been cleaned and installed under the truck. The 4.10 front diff came out to make way for the 4.30. I transfered the ADD tube and mounts to the 4.30 diff. All was well until...

I noticed that the companion flange on the 4.30 diff is bent. It is spinning true around the pinion shaft. But one side of the flange that meets up with the driveshaft is bent in toward the diff ever so slightly. (See picture.)

Messing with the backlash and preload somewhat scare me. I don't think I have the proper tools or skill sets (or confidence) to reset them if needed.

I now have 2 spare diffs with perfectly straight companion flanges. I need some assistance or advice with this situation.

Do I just do my best to beat the bent flange straight?

Do I just install the diff and torque the front driveshaft to spec and hope for the best & no driveline vibration?

Do I just take the two diffs to someone and have them swap out the flanges?

Or, is the flange swap something that I really could tackle considering everything else I've already accomplished?

 

[jason in tn]

I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to pound the flange true, it will never happen and likely only make matters worse. My question is how did it get bent, was that diff dropped at some point or did it happen in the vehicle?
I myself would just try and run it, if you do have a vibration you can swap the flange with out pulling the diff I would think.

 

[ugamurph]

In my haste to post, I forgot to mention the how. Last night I moved it to my workbench to add the ADD tube and mounts. When I went to pick up the diff to move it to the workbench, I knocked it off of the 4" wood blocks that it had been laying on. It hit the concrete floor flange first. I checked it, but didn't notice that it was bent. Tonight I could see the slight deflection as I was preparing to re-install it.

 

[htburnett]

Could just leave it out now that you have a locker you won't need 4wheel drive.

 

[TeddyBoy]

try running it first, I suspect torquing down the bolts will straighten it up. If that fails swapping them is easy, simply remove pinion nut and pull out. When you put the replacement on make sure you re-stake the pinion nut.

yeah yeah pinion pre-load yada yada. It's a legit issue but tighten down adequately and you'll be fine.

 

[DSLTOY]

I would replace it, I have replace several over the years to both change the flange or to replace seal and have never had an issue. Just remove ,replace and re torque, should not effect diff set up. New Drive flange should slide on if it doesn't don't beat on it.

 

[ugamurph]

Could just leave it out now that you have a locker you won't need 4wheel drive.

I almost decided to do this.

 

[FJCRAWLER]

Swap it out and change the seal too. Also put a little silicone on the pinion threads before installing washer and nut. That prevents gear oil leakage. Then tighten the crap out of it. I mean retorque the nut to it recommended spec. If it makes ya fill better torque it twice.
Heck you chase bad guy all day don't be scared of this.

 

[jynx]

I'm torn on this one myself. Since the 4Runner front drive-line will be turning all the time, there is a chance that you will get some vibration at speed, but I would be curious as to how bad it would be. I wouldn't try to torque it down to pull it true as you may end up damaging the driveshaft side of the equation. Since you have it out and have a good flange and knowing how much work you had put in to this point, I believe I would be tempted to swap the flanges. Backlash won't be effected at all as it is set by the side to side movement of the carrier in relation to the pinion. The only thing you could affect is the pinion preload. If you mark the end of the pinion and the nut and note how many threads are showing, then you should be able to get the new flange on and get the nut back to approximately the same spot which should give you effectively the same preload. I am not sure exactly how pinion preload is set in the clamshell style diffs, but I would suspect there is a crush sleeve in there. I have an in-lb torque wrench you can borrow if you need it. I would offer to stop by, but I have family coming into town tonight for the weekend and I feel Erin would frown upon me ditching her family for the day. Of course with all this, you could just swap to a set of lockouts on the front-end and not worry about the flange since it wouldn't be moving anymore on the highway.

 

[Monty231]

I would find out for sure if that diff has a solid collar or crush sleeve. If it has a solid collar I wouldn't hesitate to swap it out. Otherwise, I might run it and see if it had any vibes. Good luck.

 

[ugamurph]

I greatly appreciate the confidence y'all have in me & the advice you've given. I'm definitely going to change it since I have a spare. This morning I had loaded the two diffs in the GX and was going to head to LexPro in Murfreesboro after dropping Wmily off at school. I went by Toyota of Murfreesboro to pick up a pinion seal but they didn't have any in stock. So, I pulled up the thread to see the replies. After reading your replies, I decided not to go to LexPro. I'm going to tackle this myself.

But, I have a few questions...

Is the pinion nut reuseable, or do I need to pick up a new one?

Since Toyota didn't have any seals in stock is there another brand I can trust or do I just wait until i can get it Wednesday?

@jynx, do you have the parts for the lockout conversion? If so, I'll give you $50 for them.

 

[FJCRAWLER]

Reuse nut
Autozone or other parts store might have seal. They work just as good.

 

[ugamurph]

Looking into it a little more. It looks like there's a spacer between the inner and outer bearings, but no crush sleeve. So, it looks like I'm good to go on using @jynx 's suggestion of making match marks, counting threads and reinstalling to those marks.

#12 - Pinion Flange and dust cap
#13 - Outer Pinion Bearing
#15 - Pinion Seal
#17 - Pinion Spacer
#18 - Inner Pinion Bearing

 

[FJCRAWLER]

@jynx should buy you the lock outs for Christmas.

 

[ugamurph]

Oreilly can get me the seal today. National brand.

My goal of being done with this by tomorrow may still be possible!!


I think that's an excellent idea, @FJCRAWLER! Merry Christmas, @jynx.

 

[radioridge]

I would find out for sure if that diff has a solid collar or crush sleeve. If it has a solid collar I wouldn't hesitate to swap it out. Good luck.

X2

 

[jynx]

If I had them in my stash I'd be happy to share. As far as that diagram, if that is how the front is set up, then I wouldn't hesitate to zip the but off and swap the flanges. And if it is a spacer and not a crush sleeve, reinstallation will be easy, just zip it back on and torque it and restake the but. The solid spacer will maintain preload on the bearings so that actually takes the guess work out of it. Zip off but, remove flange, swap the seals, install new flange, torque it down and throw that chunck of iron in and go.

I got a buddy that had to rebuild his taco diff a year or two ago. I will call him and confirm the spacer, but when you get the seal out if the outer bearing will come out, you could confirm what's behind it. Just watch for a shim stack and pay attention to orientation for reassembly.

 

[jynx]

Talked to my buddy and he didn't actually have to pull the pinion so he was of no assistance on that matter. I would mark both pinion and nut as if it was not a solid spacer for disassembly (read that perhaps a dimple punch mark on both the nut and pinion end might be less likely to get rubbed off) then tear it down and swap everything out and then just tighten it back down taking it just slightly past the initial marks and then restake the nut and you should be good. Holding the flange for retightening the nut will probably be the biggest pain since it is on the bench and you will have to find a good way to keep it from rotating while you tighten it down.

 

[ugamurph]

Thanks for all of your help @jynx. I'll let y'all know how it goes. My plan was to use a dimple punch to mark it. I've lost marks before that were done in paint or marker. Lesson learned.

 

[Monty231]

I have a jig I built to hold the pinion while the diff is out. You are welcome to borrow it.