Alignment after brake pads?! (1 Viewer)

[knewstance]

Update: replaced the rear left caliper, and it is still pulling to the left.

Before replacing my rear brake pads, it drove super straight. Now after replacement, it is pulling to the left. The only thing that changed before and after is the brake pads (and clips), but I don't understand how they would be causing the misalignment. Calipers seem to be functioning properly - I didn't notice any leaks and both turned back easily.

Additional notes:

• Left side brake pads were about 2mm more worn than the right side.
• When braking hard, there is no noticeable pulling. All brakes seem to apply evenly.

What could be causing this pulling? Could the left side rotor be warped, causing wear on the brake pad and pulling?

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

sticking caliper is the likely cause, esp since you saw that side had more wear.

 

[abuck99]

One of the calipers is dragging and pulling the front end to that side.

 

[knewstance]

My mind didn't go straight to that just because both calipers were equally easy to turn back. Previous bad calipers I've experienced were very difficult to turn back. Makes sense though.

Do you suggest a caliper rebuild kit or just getting the entire new/remanufactured caliper?

sticking caliper is the likely cause, esp since you saw that side had more wear.

One of the calipers is dragging and pulling the front end to that side.

 

[Rolocado]

I just rebuilt all 4 of my calipers and replaced rubber lines

 

[knewstance]

I just rebuilt all 4 of my calipers and replaced rubber lines

I may just dive in and do them all too since I'd need to bleed the whole system anyways.

Which kit did you use/where did you get your parts?

 

[Rolocado]

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[abuck99]

When the pads were replaced, the slide pins should have been cleaned up and a visual ispection of the pistons for crud/corrosion- they may be sticking on the seals. Rebuilding with new pistons and seals including a flush might be in order. Rebuilt caliper may be the same price though.

 

[knewstance]

When the pads were replaced, the slide pins should have been cleaned up and a visual ispection of the pistons for crud/corrosion- they may be sticking on the seals. Rebuilding with new pistons and seals including a flush might be in order. Rebuilt caliper may be the same price though.

Slide pins also appeared to freely move. I will try to find a more comprehensive rebuild kit of they are available.

 

[knewstance]

So I replaced the rear left caliper and I am still noticing the pulling to the left.

I am now leaning towards the hunch of a warped caliper causing drag only in a single spot. Can anyone give me some feedback before I go spend bigger money and time on this project? Could it be a dragging E Brake? My E Brake seems to work as it should, but who knows if it's dragging and I have no idea how changing the brake pads would affect that.

 

[nissanh]

Probably clogged flexible brake hoses (there are 2 hoses per rear wheel) When you press the paddle, pressure can pass through ,but brake fluid return is slow causing the drag.

 

[abuck99]

So I replaced the rear left caliper and I am still noticing the pulling to the left.

I am now leaning towards the hunch of a warped caliper causing drag only in a single spot. Can anyone give me some feedback before I go spend bigger money and time on this project? Could it be a dragging E Brake? My E Brake seems to work as it should, but who knows if it's dragging and I have no idea how changing the brake pads would affect that.

Options:

1.) Using a dial indicator you can measure run-out of the front & rear rotors to know if you have a warped rotor,( but chances of warped rotor is slim).

2.) Can you identify if its front brake or rear brake pulling? If the caliper is dragging it will be hot- and you can measure with infrared thermometer between right & left front or back side rotor to observe any substantial variance in temp.

3.) Maybe a piston sticking- are they corroded, or crusty?

4.) E-brake: you can raise the rear wheels off the ground and rotate them to feel for any stiction or noise.

5). Re-bleed brakes

6.) Get your alignment checked

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Options:

1.) Using a dial indicator you can measure run-out of the front & rear rotors to know if you have a warped rotor,( but chances of warped rotor is slim).

2.) Can you identify if its front brake or rear brake pulling? If the caliper is dragging it will be hot- and you can measure with infrared thermometer between right & left front or back side rotor to observe any substantial variance in temp.

3.) Maybe a piston sticking- are they corroded, or crusty?

4.) E-brake: you can raise the rear wheels off the ground and rotate them to feel for any stiction or noise.

5). Re-bleed brakes

6.) Get your alignment checked

I second the warped rotor sentiment, warped rotors are pretty much a myth. It can happen, but it's actually pretty rare and it wouldn't cause a consistent pull...

actually, I second all of what @abuck99 said, that'd be my course of action^

 

[knewstance]

Probably clogged flexible brake hoses (there are 2 hoses per rear wheel) When you press the paddle, pressure can pass through ,but brake fluid return is slow causing the drag.

Forgot to mention that I replaced the hoses too!

Options:

1.) Using a dial indicator you can measure run-out of the front & rear rotors to know if you have a warped rotor,( but chances of warped rotor is slim).

2.) Can you identify if its front brake or rear brake pulling? If the caliper is dragging it will be hot- and you can measure with infrared thermometer between right & left front or back side rotor to observe any substantial variance in temp.

3.) Maybe a piston sticking- are they corroded, or crusty?

4.) E-brake: you can raise the rear wheels off the ground and rotate them to feel for any stiction or noise.

5). Re-bleed brakes

6.) Get your alignment checked

Thank you for your continued input! I appreciate it.

After driving around with some mixed hard braking, just to test the system, I felt and smelled each caliper/rotor individually and none stood out over the others. Still possible, but if there were any drastic difference, I would have noticed. I am not thinking that I have any sticking pistons. They all look to be in good shape. I will check the E-brake a little bit later today once I finish my front end work.

I re-bleed the brakes about 3 times and pumped a bunch of fluid through the system to get as much old fluid out as possible.

I plan on getting my alignment done. I have been working on replacing ball joints and tie end rods. It was just weird because the pulling wasn't there before changing the brake pads. Even so, it is a pretty minor pulling, nonetheless annoying.

 

[scottm]

You need more tools, universal rule. Get a cheap infrared thermometer and check the temps of your calipers and rotors after driving a bit. You will see a dragging brake immediately, no smelling or feeling. I just replaced my front calipers for this, it was easy to tell what was happening with the thermometer. Actually I stopped at my friend's car shop and borrowed his, was going to just have them do the caliper swap, but it is such an easy job.

I've replaced my front calipers three times now, had the truck a long time. Free calipers, Autozone warranties them, and doesn't ask questions. They are rebuilt Toyota calipers, come with clips and pins and shims. I use OEM pads. Just replaced calipers on my 4R and LC again, Michigan salt isn't compatible with Toyota calipers apparently.
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