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Algicide for pools (Black Algae)

Discussion in 'Chit-Chat' started by Relix, Aug 21, 2006.

  1. Relix

    Relix

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    I feel like I'm fighting a losing battle.... I keep my clorine levels high, and my PH just right, but I can't keep up with the Black Algae on the sides and bottom of my pool..... If I let the chlorine level drop for one day the water turns green on me....

    HAs anyone ever beat black algae and how did you?
     
  2. TX_TLC

    TX_TLC

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    Don't know about your situation but the "new thing" here is salt water pools....
     
  3. srplus

    srplus Walked with the Dinosaurs

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    We used to give the pool a few successive "shock treatments"... that handled it then... now we live with out a pool and a few blocks away from the city pool and let them worry about it.
     
  4. WagonsRule

    WagonsRule

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    I had a similar problem last year.

    First you brush over the algae with a wire brush.

    Then get a product called algea be gone. I think that is the name. Your pool products dealer should know the stuff. Basically it is little pellets of slow dissolving chlorine. You sprinkle it over the spots on the pool. Use your soft brush to move all you can over the affected areas. Let it sit for 24 hours. Do not run the filter during this time...you don't want to circulate the water and move the chemical.

    After 24 hours, vacuum up any undissolved chenical, and hit it with the wire brush again. The algae should be gone. When it is, you need to backwash the filter or completely clean it. THIS IS IMPORTANT because the algae will live inside the filter and eventually wind up right back where it originally was.

    In AZ, hot weather=warm pool water=chlorine is less effective. Do you keep a floating chlorine dispenser in the pool? It helps maintain the proper level.

    Good luck.


    Edit: I just re-read the original post. If your water is green, you do not have black algae...you have green algae. This is much easier to deal with. There is a liquid you can dump right in the pool. No scrubbing, vacuuming, or filter cleaning. You could probably get rid of it with 2 gallons of liquid chlorine.

    Black algae is black spots on the surface of the pool. They look like leaves or typical debris but it does not vacuum up.
     
  5. Relix

    Relix

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    I wire bruch my entire pool atleast once a day, I keep a floating chlorine dispensor with 4 3" tablets in it at all times, every day I put 2 chlorine 3" chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket... So far this season has been the worst... I'm thinking I need to replaster the entire pool... I beleive I've spent over $600 since June on Chlorine/Shock/Algicide & Soda ash, for some reason my PH keeps bottoming out... I haven't added acid in years, but the PH keeps droping like I am...
     
  6. WagonsRule

    WagonsRule

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    First, I edited my previous post, so if you did not see that, check it out. You must have an issue here. Not sure a replaster will do anything, unless there is something in the plaster that is leetching ijnto the water and lowering your ph.

    I'm not an expert. Whenever I have a problem, I bring a water sample to the store and have them test it with their machine. They can tell you things your home test kit will not.
     
  7. GetsUThere

    GetsUThere

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    Do you have any way to measure how much stabilizer (cyanuric acid) you have? It almost sounds like you might have too much to the point even though there's a ton of chlorine in the water it will not work properly.
     
  8. Relix

    Relix

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    My water turns green from the Black Algae, that grows on the plaster...I think... Algae blooms are easy to control like mustard algae, just some shock and it's gone..... What I have is large patches/sections of plaster that have turned black and have a moss like covering of alge...I brush those off with my wire brush then vacum the pool, shock the pool, then the next day I add algicide and repeat every weekend...If I miss a day and don't add chlorine to the skimmer basket my water turns green...The water temp sits between 85-95 degrees durning this time of year....
     
  9. Relix

    Relix

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    good question, that sounds like what may be effecdting my PH (lowering it) although the pool store I've been going to doesn't test for it...hmm
     
  10. GetsUThere

    GetsUThere

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    You might want to consider getting something like this so you can measure things yourself. I have something similar and have found it very useful.
     
  11. WagonsRule

    WagonsRule

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    If it is black algae, you would need to clean your filter after vacuuming it up.

    Also, try that algae be gone stuff that I mentioned earlier. When I had my problem, I first tried the liquid cure. IIRC, it was a thick blue liquid that had to be mixed with fresh water and dumped in the pool. It didn't work. The granules did.

    If your pH is constantly out of whack, I feel like you have something else going on. When you say you use the wire brush every day...depending on how much brushing you're doing, I wonder if that could be the problem. A wire brush is too harsh to sweep the pool with. That's what they make the softer brushes for. The wire one is for getting off stuff that the soft brush won't (like black algae). If you are using the wire brush too much, I wonder if you are grinding plaster off the surface, which is then dissolving in the water causing your pH to be messed up?
     
  12. offrd63

    offrd63 Ain't you done yet!

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    The PH isn't going to help, or affect the algae. The chlorine funtions better at betweem 7.2 and 7.6 ph.
    Their is no such thing as "too much chlor. to funtion properly.

    Here is what you need to do. You are probably useing Di chlor, or Tri chlor. as your sanitizer. Algae is like some of the "superbugs or strains" of infections that our kids get.The Algae has become somewhat immune to the sanitizer you are useing, and you need to switch to kill the algae

    First off you need a proper test kit. Not those strips. Get a Taylor test kit. You should go by some Calcium Hypochloride. This will kill all the algae if you get your water up to 30 ppm chlorine. This is important. not almost 30ppm, you need to make sure you have enough or you will be starting over again. To much is just a waste and it takes longer for the chlorine level to drop back down. Do Not let anyone get in the pool untill the chlorine level drops back down. (They will have white swimming suits) It will take a couple of days for the chlorine level to drop back down to 3 ppm. This is were you should keep it 3 ppm chlorine. Keep your PH at 7.4

    After things clear up you should keep that chlorine level up. all it take is a day with no chlorine and you could be starting over again.


    Hope this helps

    aw CPO (certified swimming pool operater)
     
  13. Relix

    Relix

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    How to I check to see if my Chlorine is 30ppm? My tester only goes to 5 Chl and10 Brd?
     
  14. GetsUThere

    GetsUThere

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    If that's a response to my post, I suggest you read it again. I did not say too much cholrine. :rolleyes:

    Relix. you need a better test kit.
     
  15. offrd63

    offrd63 Ain't you done yet!

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    Most test kits will only test up to 5 ppm. You need to do the math to determine how much cholrine to add. It depends on how many gallons you have,(You need gallons for all water chemistry changes)and you have to read the % of chlorine you useing. They range in strengh from 12% for t-chlor, to 98% for trichlor. Cal-hypo is typicaly abou 68%. On the label for your Chlorine is should say: To raise the chlor. level 1 ppm for 10,000 gal. add x ounces.(you have to weigh it)

    Again if you are useing the "3" pucks", they are usualy Di-chlor. Most people useing the 3"tabs will supplement with granular Tri-chlor. These two chlorines are similar enough that they may not kill the algae.

    If you go with the Cal-hypo you should remove all the 3"tabs from the floater and the skimmer basket. Cal-hypo is an organic, and the other two are inorganic cholrines.

    You should also desolve the cal-hypo in a bucket and then pour it in. The Green will be gone in 12 to 24 hours if you do the math right.

    aw
     
  16. Relix

    Relix

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    So I went out ang picked up a 50lbs bucket of Calcium Hypochloride and added about 25lbs of it, now my pool is a nice milky white and kinda frothy...
     
  17. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    Cut your $$ losses and dump the water and start with new. Drain the pool wash down the sides with liquid cholrine and refill. It can be done in 24hr done deal and your swimming.
    Been there done that 1 1/2 months ago
     
  18. 97 FZJ80

    97 FZJ80

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    I'm with LandCruiserPhil on this one. Your pool water is probably at a point where the dissolved solid is going thru the roof with all the chemical you've been adding. I usually drain the pool all the way down every 4-5 years, and the new water is so much easier to balance and to keep the algae in check.

    Buy a couple of pumps and you can empty the pool in 12 hours.
     
  19. drnls

    drnls SILVER Star

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    I had the green pool in June this year after heavy rain storms. I was dumping the granular chlorine in daily, and vacuuming on discharge. I did a test sample, acid was low chlorine too high. Then I purchased new algaecide (thick blue diluted in 1 gal of water), ran the pump for 24 hours killing everything. Vaccuumed (sp?) everything on discharge so it's bypassing the filter. I also dumped in two gallons of HCl, pool was clear the next day. I use the chlorine tabs from Sam's, check the ingredient list - make sure it states 99% chlorine something something. My brother has the salt water setup - likes it a lot. Good luck, Nelson
     
  20. WagonsRule

    WagonsRule

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    I was thinking it might be time for a drain 'n' fill too. You are supposed to do that every few years anyway.

    Otherwise, I seriously recommend that you take a water sample into a pool shop and have them test it for you.

    I'm thinking your water temps are not helping either. How long do you run your filter? I'd run it at least 12 hours/day to keep that water circulating. That will help.

    You might also consider looking into a non chlorine sanitizer. People normally run their spas at 95-102. Chlorine is generally not used in spas due to the fact that it is unstable at those temps. Your pool is darn close to those temps.

    The only chlorine alternative that I know anything about is Baqua. I use it in my spa, and have been very happy with it. I don't have any experience using bromine or anything else to compare to, but the Baqua is super easy. You add a couple of different chemicals weekly. They have a dosage chart which tells you how much to add, based on water volume. The water always looks great and tests perfect.

    Baqua does make a product for swimming pools too. I was told that it is "quite a bit more expensive" to use than chlorine, but if you've spent $600 in the last 2 months, I doubt that would be the case for you. I don't think I've spent $600 on pool chems in the last 3 years.
     
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