Airbag advice for towing (1 Viewer)

[DPA200]

DPA 200 - for any self install please make sure when lifting up the rear and both wheels from the ground that the front wheels are really well chocked. I did it in my garage and had a concrete ledge of about 3 inch tall so ended up putting some wood between that and the front wheels. Regardless when i jacked up and put some heavy duty jack stands at the rear i still had about 1/2" forward movement. This was okay with the hydraulic garage jack there and then putting the wheels under the frame.

Just be super careful with that because you will be messing around under the car with the axle dropped and springs for several hours and you have to have somebody jump on the passenger side to get that spring out. BE WARNED AND VERY CAREFUL PLEASE. Have primary and secondary means of keeping the vehicle in the air and chocked.

Much appreciate the advice. Safety 1st when have to spend that much time under a truck. Good reminder though for sure, it's no joke. I remember putting my current long springs installed in a driveway was a bit challenging to muscle, so I could see potential for disaster there. The buddy that I'm planning to do this airbag install with has a real shop access, so hopefully we can use his lift

 

[2021 LC200]

If you cut off the bump stop after the first ring ,(per instructions) there already is a hole there. No need to drill one for the air line. The included hose length is plenty and good kitchen scissors cut it just fine. Heat gun does help take out some of the coil in the line.

I believe the install instructions indicate making a bigger hole which i did to prevent hose interference with the bump stop. The Aussie LC200 project shows the same. Having said that the hose does fit through the factory hole so maybe that is just fine including any bag movement over time. I would not take that risk though as damage means possible new bags or at least the pain of having to drop the axle again and do an uninstall/reinstall...

My biggest issue with the self install was not pushing the air hose deep enough in the fitting, so one side leaked. You really need to pudh it in there basically...

Also I did the 3 x turn lose on the KDSS and disconnected the KDSS from the axle which then telescoped out and required the jack to push it back up for reconnect. This was easy to do using my hydraulic jack and rubber pad in there below the KDSS arm. I do not recall now from where I gathered that info but believe I followed the "instructions" by LC200 project.

 

[DPA200]

I believe the install instructions indicate making a bigger hole which i did to prevent hose interference with the bump stop. The Aussie LC200 project shows the same. Having said that the hose does fit through the factory hole so maybe that is just fine including any bag movement over time. I would not take that risk though as damage means possible new bags or at least the pain of having to drop the axle again and do an uninstall/reinstall...

My biggest issue with the self install was not puishing the air hose deep enough in the fitting, so one side leaked. You really need to pish it in there basically...

Also I did the 3 x turn lose on the KDSS and disconnected the KDSS from the axle which then telescoped out and required the jack to push it back up for reconnect. I do not recall now from the info I gathered but believe i followed the "instructions" by LC200 project.

"telescoped out", bringing back fond memories from a lift install on an old buddy's truck. Same thing happened, I remember him on the ground trying to bench press it back. 2nd go around my rear springs we used multiple jacks so that couldn't happen. Good reminder though. Also appreciate the advice on the air fitting. I'll probably just drill out the 35mm hole. I found this for cheap:

Mollom Heavy Duty Carbide Hole Saw, Hole Cutter cuts Stainless Steel, mild Steel, Iron, Copper, Brass, Plastic ( 1-3/8'' 35mm )

 

[2021 LC200]

I bought one of these from Harbor Freight since bit quality was a none issue for the bump stop material rubber/plastic. It also helps keeping the hole center as there is a hole already whereas the hole cutter you show needs a pilot hole.

I also rounded of the hole with a dremel tool and some sanding paper to make any hose contact less aggresive. That is probably a bit OCD, little effort though...

 

[FerrisBueller]

Here is everything I ordered, let me know if I missed anything

Don't forget to buy some 1/4" loom to cover and protect the air lines.

Amazon.com: ZhiYo 50 FT 1/4” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover | High Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables : Electronics

Buy ZhiYo 50 FT 1/4” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover | High Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables: Cable Sleeves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

 

[FerrisBueller]

@DPA200 In case it's helpful for you, here's the writeup I did when I installed mine:

I don't remember seeing a thorough install thread for airbags on here, so I'm making this description very detailed.

I added Firestone 4164 helper airbags (and added 1/4" wire loom to protect the air tubes). These are rated for up to 35 psi. You can get the same ones, but with sleeves that bring them up to over 60psi max if you purchase the HD version from Airbagman (but it's like 3x more expensive shipped from AUS). They do seem to be the correct item to go with my 2" lift (this was the advice from a few other comments throughout the forum). Whenever we would go on family trips the past couple years, the gear would make the back sag 1" - 2", so this is to alleviate that problem and make it handle better but otherwise keep my non-harsh ride when the LC is not loaded up.

View attachment 3008989
View attachment 3009280

First, here's a really brief summary of the steps, before I get into more detail:

Prep work:

1. Jack up rear frame on both sides and place jack stands.
2. Remove both rear tires AND spare tire (creates a ton more room, I waited too long to do this).
3. Loosen KDSS bolts 2.5 turns.
4. Remove top breather bolt (12mm) to avoid damage when axle droops (I prefer removing the top bolt instead of the bottom clamp, since clamps often aren't airtight anymore after removing them).
5. Remove the first 2 bolts (12mm) holding the brake line (passenger side) where it arrives at the axle.
6. Remove the bolt (12mm) holding the emergency brake line to the axle.

Spring removal work (an extra set of jack stands can be useful for all axle work, but not required):

1. Jack up rear axle by the diff slightly to avoid make sure you're in control of the droop at all time.
2. Remove bottom shock mount bolts (17mm) and hammer shock off the pin.
3. Remove driver side sway bar linkage bolt - 19mm.
4. Remove passenger side sway bar linkage bolt - 14mm (be careful on this one, the washers and bushings like to fall off and roll away).
   • NOTE: This is the important step to make removing the passenger side rear spring really easy, and that usually is not mentioned in instructions anywhere.
5. Jack up the passenger side of the rear axle, and let the driver side droop.
6. Push down on the driver side wheel hub with your knee, the axle should droop enough to get the spring out.
7. Jack up the driver side of the rear axle, and let the passenger side droop.
8. Push down on the passenger side wheel hub with your knee, the axle should droop enough to get the spring out. You might need to brace your back against the wheel well.

Airbag work (just following the included instructions):

1. Take the pyramid-looking bump stops out of the springs and cut off the lower 4 sections.
2. Put the airbags in the springs (hole toward the top).
3. Cut the provided tube in half, and add the wire loom now if you have some.
   • NOTE: leave at least 1" bare without loom on one side for the next step.
4. Push to securely connect each section of tube to the easy-connect fittings on the airbags.
5. Thread the tube through the hole in the shortened bump stops, placing the bump stops where they belong on the springs.
6. Stand the spring/airbag/tube combination on the ground near where they belong on the axle.
7. Thread the tube through the top frame hole where the springs will rest, and temporarily bring them out through the gap in above the frame into the wheel well. This will make routing a lot easier.
8. Install the spring/airbag/tube combinations back onto the axle. Do passenger first, then driver. Same procedure as when you removed them - push on hub with knee and insert springs (make sure to align correctly).
9. Route and zip-tie along the top or outside edges of the frame (there are lots of other tubes and cables in there that you can bundle them with), until you reach your target where you'd like to install your air valves. You'll have a ton of extra tubing, just leave the extra for now.
   • NOTE: Make sure you consider spare tire clearance.
10. Install your air valves (1/2" top and bottom).
    • NOTE: A super convenient valve install point is in a little metal tab that is hidden but easily accessible under the plastic flap when you have your tailgate open. The existing holes are just barely too small, and need a tiny bit material drilled out first (and paint to protect from corrosion).
11. Trim the tubing to the correct length to reach the air valves, but leaving a little slack. Remember to trim the wire loom back at least 1" from the end.
12. Securely press the tube ends to the easy-connect fittings on the air valves.

Finishing up:

1. Connect the sway bar linkages in the reverse order that you disconnected them. First the passenger side (jack up driver side axle first, then should be easy to manually place with the washers and bushings).
2. Leave the passenger side axle high, this will push the driver side sway bar down, making it easier to bolt it back up to the driver side linkage (do this now).
   • NOTE: you'll probably need to use a jack or ratchet strap to push the linkage up the rest of the way to the sway bar. I used a jack.
3. Replace lower shock mount bolts. Raise or lower each side of axle to make the hole line up, hammer the shock onto the mount, then install bolt.
   • NOTE: Make sure the tops of the springs stay inserted on the mounting lip, as they like to fall out during this.
4. Reinstall emergency brake line bolt.
5. Reinstall 2 brake line bolts.
6. Reinstall breather bolt.
7. Reinstall wheels & spare.
8. Lower vehicle, and let it sit on level ground for 10 - 15 minutes (maybe even bounce around a little on the rear, too) so the KDSS system settles.
9. Tighten KDSS bolts.
10. Inflate airbags to 5psi (minimum when not using them.
    • NOTE: I added a hand pump to my gear that goes up to 30psi, since the airbags max out at 35psi. The hand pump works pretty good, and I will use it only when I need to make small increments (15 pumps for 5psi) or don't want to get out my bigger compressor.

Lots of pictures coming next...

 

[DPA200]

I bought one of these from Harbor Freight since bit quality was a none issue for the bump stop material rubber/plastic. It also helps keeping the hole center as there is a hole already whereas the hole cutter you show needs a pilot hole.

View attachment 3231313

I dig it, good tip. I'll head over to HF this wkd thx

 

[DPA200]

@DPA200 In case it's helpful for you, here's the writeup I did when I installed mine:

SUPER helpful detailed instructions. Much appreciated!

 

[2021 LC200]

Don't forget to buy some 1/4" loom to cover and protect the air lines.

Amazon.com: ZhiYo 50 FT 1/4” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover | High Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables : Electronics

Buy ZhiYo 50 FT 1/4” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover | High Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables: Cable Sleeves - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Yes, that would be good. The Airbag Man Kevlar sleeved bags kit comes with that around the airlines. Makes sense to buy and protect them for durability.

 

[DPA200]

What pump do you all use for inflating the airbags? I've been using my ARB dual, but it's so fast I'm always afraid of over-inflating. Also wouldn't mind something quicker to use compared to getting all my usual air up kit out. I saw this on Amazon thought it may do the trick

Fanttik X8 Portable Tire Inflator

 

[Tex68w]

Personally I don't care for the each wheel air up systems. It adds more lines and fittings to leak, you're still getting hoses out to attach at each corner, the tires fill slower since the compressor is splitting it's duty four ways, etc. I find airing up a 34" tire from 12-15 psi to 37 psi only takes a few minutes per tire, in no way is that a detriment to getting me back on the road. The few minutes you might save with a four-way system isn't worth the added failure points or cost IMHO, but that's just my $0.02.

 

[Catskills]

Hi, all. My truck is in right now to have the Firestone 4164s installed and the tech is telling me the airbags aren't tall enough and they need a spacer of some kind. I have a 2.5" lift and no armor on the back. Can anyone weigh in?

None of my research indicated I'd need a spacer...

Thanks! Kris

 

[TeCKis300]

Hi, all. My truck is in right now to have the Firestone 4164s installed and the tech is telling me the airbags aren't tall enough and they need a spacer of some kind. I have a 2.5" lift and no armor on the back. Can anyone weigh in?

None of my research indicated I'd need a spacer...

Thanks! Kris

Did they cut the stock jounce stop completely down? I prefer to only cut 2 segments which should make the airbags tall enough. Taller airbags don't exist and we're using the largest ones available already.

 

[Catskills]

Did they cut the stock jounce stop completely down? I prefer to only cut 2 segments which should make the airbags tall enough. Taller airbags don't exist and we're using the largest ones available already.

No, they didn't. I don't understand what the issue is.

Thanks.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Yeah, they should be fine as long at the shop cuts fewer of the jounce stops to accommodate your slightly taller lift. I would ask them why they think they're too short.

 

[Catskills]

Did they cut the stock jounce stop completely down? I prefer to only cut 2 segments which should make the airbags tall enough. Taller airbags don't exist and we're using the largest ones available already.

Yeah, they should be fine as long at the shop cuts fewer of the jounce stops to accommodate your slightly taller lift. I would ask them why they think they're too short.

And of course it was fine. They also spent awhile arguing with me about how the matching spare wouldn't fit in the stock location and that too was fine.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I definitely need to do this to help with towing. Will these work with OEM shocks springs ok? If I have a shop install the parts, what should I expect to be charged in labor?

 

[JohnPW]

I definitely need to do this to help with towing. Will these work with OEM shocks springs ok? If I have a shop install the parts, what should I expect to be charged in labor?

Yes stock shocks and springs work great with the airbags. It’s been a while and I don’t recall what I was charged, a couple hundred maybe?

 

[linuxgod]

If you're mildly handy you can really do this yourself. Jack up the vehicle so the rear spring stretches out, use a sawzall to lop off a couple jounce rings, flatten the airbag and slide it into the spring, connector side up, then route the air lines however you want , they're just "push to insert" and you zip tie them to the frame.

Removing the springs makes cutting the jounce stop and inserting the bags easier, but in my experience the passenger's side spring is a PITA to get out.

IIRC we did my install including fabricating a mount for the air compressor in the jack compartment and running power to it from the battery in <3 hours. I'm sure a competent shop could do it all in 2.

 

[sleepycruiser]

If you're mildly handy you can really do this yourself. Jack up the vehicle so the rear spring stretches out, use a sawzall to lop off a couple jounce rings, flatten the airbag and slide it into the spring, connector side up, then route the air lines however you want , they're just "push to insert" and you zip tie them to the frame.

Removing the springs makes cutting the jounce stop and inserting the bags easier, but in my experience the passenger's side spring is a PITA to get out.

IIRC we did my install including fabricating a mount for the air compressor in the jack compartment and running power to it from the battery in <3 hours. I'm sure a competent shop could do it all in 2.

Gotcha. So you don’t have to technically remove anything? Springs, etc.