air conditioning line torque specs

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Just replaced 7 o-rings on the ac system. Not sure if there's anymore.

Found torque specs in FSM but already snapped one bolt. Anyone have a clear understanding of the torque for each?
 
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20220730_150548.jpg
 
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All the screws are steel into aluminum. Are you using OEM screws?
 
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Yeah. I need part # for bolts.

You didn't say what you have. Here's a 95+ US market:

 
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Just replaced 7 o-rings on the ac system. Not sure if there's anymore.

Found torque specs in FSM but already snapped one bolt. Anyone have a clear understanding of the torque for each?
What FSM are you using? There are a few versions of the Toyota FSM that have incorrect torque specs in them (like lb-in instead of lb-ft)

These screws don't require much. It will be something like 14 lb-in (whatever that is in Nm for you....)
 
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What FSM are you using? There are a few versions of the Toyota FSM that have incorrect torque specs in them (like lb-in instead of lb-ft)

These screws don't require much. It will be something like 14 lb-in (whatever that is in Nm for you....)
Wow I didn't know that. Just using this one
The 1st bolt off compressor was 10nm and I used a lb.ft 7 and it snapped. Perhaps my torque wrench was off. But I torqued much higher on the condenser and they survived.
 
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Wow I didn't know that. Just using this one
The 1st bolt off compressor was 10nm and I used a lb.ft 7 and it snapped. Perhaps my torque wrench was off. But I torqued much higher on the condenser and they survived.

7 lb-ft is 84 lb-in.

That's a lot for those.
 

Tedward

95 LC
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I snapped a couple bolts working the a/c myself.
I don't think you did anything wrong. It just happens with alum and steel and time and crust
Only bolts I broke on that wagon besides the rear lower shock mounts.
 
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So just had shop charge ac and there's a blockage. Should I just go ahead snd replace receiver and dryer?
 
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The dryer should be replaced any time the system is opened.

If you have a blockage, I think you're going to have to find it and remove it, which likely means removing the dryer, compressor, condenser, and evaporator.
 
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The dryer should be replaced any time the system is opened.

If you have a blockage, I think you're going to have to find it and remove it, which likely means removing the dryer, compressor, condenser, and evaporator.
Already replaced compressor. I guess I'll start with the rest.
 
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Already replaced compressor. I guess I'll start with the rest.

No, you have to remove each component so that you can blow out the lines with solvent. Attempting to clear a blockage without doing so will just send the blockage down the line. That could clog your condenser, TXV, or grenade your compressor.
 
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No, you have to remove each component so that you can blow out the lines with solvent. Attempting to clear a blockage without doing so will just send the blockage down the line. That could clog your condenser, TXV, or grenade your compressor.
Ok thx. I'll see what it costs the shop to do.
 
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It won't be cheap; in addition to the engine compartment components, you have to remove the dash to get the interior unit out. You can, however, do it yourself.
 

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