AHC removal questions - want to put in new 2" lift kit (1 Viewer)

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Long time listener, first time caller, hopefully can get some advice from experts here!

I have just purchased a 2005 VX Limited 100 series here in NZ, looking to put in a 2" lift but have a number of questions. I have been floating around various threads about others that have done it but want some clarity before I engage someone to do the lift.

1. disengaging the AHC ECU - I read that fuses can be pulled (I note there is two) I did a little test and removed both and the system wouldn't work but the "OFF" dash light kept flashing. I suspect that I need to unplug the AHC ECU - can anyone confirm that this is the simple fix to stop the AHC system and stop and dash lights flashing etc? I am hoping that this is the first simple step to make the AHC system stop and controls in the cab redundant.

2. Removal of AHC hardware - after removing the shocks and springs, is it as simple as leaving the rest of the components in the truck if I wish? Or would it pay to try remove the rest of the hardware - obviously this is just dead weight so would be ideal to remove but if its a mission I am not bothered.

3. Is there anything else I should be thinking about?

I will be using any knowledge gained here to help advise the guys installing the lift, not sure if they have had much experience in removing AHC systems.

Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jason
 
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Have you considered a 2" AHC lift with Japan 4x4 spacers and a sensor lift (assuming the AHC is functioning well)? That might be a cheaper 2" lift option, if the AHC still works well...
 
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1, Yes
2, Yes, you can leave everything on the truck. You can also remove it.
3, If there is a lot of rust, it might be wise to drill the holes in the trunk/boot to access the top bolts of the shocks. Also prepare with a sawzall, chances are you'll have to cut off the top part of the shocks.
4, If there is no rust at all, or very little, save and fix the AHC and don't replace it. A good working AHC is just unbeatable both in ride quality and in versatility.
 
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Have you considered a 2" AHC lift with Japan 4x4 spacers and a sensor lift (assuming the AHC is functioning well)? That might be a cheaper 2" lift option, if the AHC still works well...
No haven't considered this, can you explain a little more what is involved here and how easy this is? The AHC seems to still work well although doesn't seem to want to go down from high when told, unless this is user error and there are some nuances with how it changes once put from normal to high.
 
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1, Yes
2, Yes, you can leave everything on the truck. You can also remove it.
3, If there is a lot of rust, it might be wise to drill the holes in the trunk/boot to access the top bolts of the shocks. Also prepare with a sawzall, chances are you'll have to cut off the top part of the shocks.
4, If there is no rust at all, or very little, save and fix the AHC and don't replace it. A good working AHC is just unbeatable both in ride quality and in versatility.
Thanks for the help here - no rust that I know of.

Will investigate what is involved with an AHC sensor change as this might be easier.
 
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Also another question - if I put on a new wheel size say 33-35inch depending on what trye/rim combo I can source, are there any speedo calibration issues I have to consider?
 
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Hey, not to be that guy, but I see you're new here. These are fairly basic questions that are all answered by searching (and your last one is general vehicle knowledge and any Google search would tell you.)

This forum is 15+ years old and there's wealth of knowledge in all the old threads.
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
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AHC removal sounds like a terrible idea given that you're not really sure how to use it.

Learn about it first. Then decide if ripping it out makes sense.
 
Joined
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Hey, not to be that guy, but I see you're new here. These are fairly basic questions that are all answered by searching (and your last one is general vehicle knowledge and any Google search would tell you.)

This forum is 15+ years old and there's wealth of knowledge in all the old threads.
Yep good observation I am new and new to owning a landcruiser. I have been googling and also asking 4x4 companies here in NZ who referred me back to either Toyota or online. I just basically need help in deciding the right thing to do when ultimately I want to lift it - if you don't want help or point me in the right direction then that is no skin off my nose, I thought I'd ask to see what the response was.

Also I can't get the low setting to work for the life of me even after googling and trying various options, so I assume that it is broken.

Anyway I will keep searching. Cheers.
 

suprarx7nut

The YotaMD Guy
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Yep good observation I am new and new to owning a landcruiser. I have been googling and also asking 4x4 companies here in NZ who referred me back to either Toyota or online. I just basically need help in deciding the right thing to do when ultimately I want to lift it - if you don't want help or point me in the right direction then that is no skin off my nose, I thought I'd ask to see what the response was.

Also I can't get the low setting to work for the life of me even after googling and trying various options, so I assume that it is broken.

Anyway I will keep searching. Cheers.
Doors need to all be closed to move into any position. Is that maybe what was stopping it from changing heights?
 
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Dec 11, 2018
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Here is an overview of how the AHC harness and hydraulic lines run. Without lifting the body they are a huuuge PITA to reach. Sorry for the amounts of mud, this is after a very thorough wash on a hoist. The body traps a lot of mud between it and the chassis... I will be making neater photos later this month when putting everything back together.

I strongly suggest against removing the AHC, unless you have rotten pipes. If the lines are ok, the only thing that ever needs replacing is the globes and they are cheaper than complete conventional suspension. You will also not be able to have the consistency and quality of the AHC ride across all conditions and surfaces.

Rotten pipes change this, as they are hard to reach, hard to change and hart to obtain. Extremely rarely the pump or the accumulator might fail, which might make conventional suspension a worthwhile option, but in general bad AHC ride boils down to worn globes and torsion bars that need winding.

IMG_5304.jpeg


IMG_5305.jpeg
 
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No haven't considered this, can you explain a little more what is involved here and how easy this is? The AHC seems to still work well although doesn't seem to want to go down from high when told, unless this is user error and there are some nuances with how it changes once put from normal to high.
Check out this thread: It outlines the customization of a 2" lift (originally completed by Hoser):

2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2-2-5-ahc-lift-using-king-coils-shock-spacers.945879/

Also, you should read the entire AHC maintenence thread:


I think this might help you understand your system better and it's strengths/weaknesses.
 

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