AHC Height Offset Utility How-To (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter radman
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dubyahard
SILVER Star
Techstream report out:
And for fun, the AHC Live screen:
And for fun, the AHC Live screen:
Left front speed sensor. 4low switch position. I’d like at those first.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Yup.
C0205 = Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction (confirms my suspicion of damage to the wheel sensor wire)
C1268 = Transfer L4 Position Switch Circuit (related to above)
C1783 = Door Courtesy Switch Circuit (my driver door was open)
C2125 = No Signal from Transmitter ID 5 In Main Mode (doesn't like my DT replacement sensors?)
B1421 = Solar Sensor Circuit Passenger Side
B1424 = Solar Sensor Circuit Driver Side
B2415 = Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction (related to the first one)
C0205 = Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction (confirms my suspicion of damage to the wheel sensor wire)
C1268 = Transfer L4 Position Switch Circuit (related to above)
C1783 = Door Courtesy Switch Circuit (my driver door was open)
C2125 = No Signal from Transmitter ID 5 In Main Mode (doesn't like my DT replacement sensors?)
B1421 = Solar Sensor Circuit Passenger Side
B1424 = Solar Sensor Circuit Driver Side
B2415 = Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction (related to the first one)
Wow man, it's great! That's what I was looking for! Now I will try to do exactly the same. I will text here later about the results. To be honest - not everything is clear to me. Can you help if I have some questions later?Height Offset can adjust a maximum of .8", so you move the physical sensors first, and then you have .8 to play with.
Step 1: Find Level Ground. I'm not sure how picky the rig is, so I'm within 1/4" on all 4 corners using various thicknesses of wood.
- 1mm of movement on the sensor equates to 2mm on the rig.
- In theory, assuming there’s enough stoke in the shocks, you might be able to add .8” on top of the “sensor lift” method (move the screws to the bottom (front) and top (rear)).
View attachment 2244877
View attachment 2244878
Step 2: Prepare suspension. Check tire pressures, put transmission in neutral, Cycle height from LO to N 2 times, and bounce corners to “stabilize suspension”. All doors have to be closed for this, and I keep my driver window down to access the ahc controls (And laptop).
Step 3: enter Techstream, AHC, Live Data, and take a picture of your values before you mess with anything.
Height Offset Utility - eversource reviews - only changes the 4 highlighted values below:
View attachment 2245033
With these numbers, my driver Front was 1/2" low.
View attachment 2245034
Step 4: Start HOU. Select FL, enter measured value of "4.5", enter standard value of "4.0"
This will add .5 to your FL height adjust
FL height adjust went from -0.3 to 0.2. After this, I added another .5" adjust to get to 0.7 (and added the same to FR)
The maximum height adjust is 0.8.
Step 5: cycle through heights and measure again.
Step 6: slap on some 35"!!!
AHC Questions:
What initiates an automatic adjustment?
¼”, ½”, 1”, 2” slope?
Is automatic leveling only a front to back function or side to side as well?
I feel my front drop/raise all the time. Can the rig make this same kind of adjustment left to right? i.e. passenger side raises/lowers to meet the driver’s side?
Is the front primary? Meaning, the front always moves in order to compensate or can the rear adjust as well?
Does self-leveling occur at highway speeds?
Rig drops into “Fast Lo” Mode at 62mph. will the rig ever attempt to self-level during these speeds?
Does weight affect height? i.e. Does a full tank of gas affect rear passenger height?
This thread tells me no:
LX570 Lean/Sag
Does your mechanic know how to properly prepare AHC for alignment? In theory, if rig is on an incline and has attempted to self-level, could this affect alignment readings? Ideally, the alignment table is level, tech drives on it, raises the table, make sure you leave doors closed to allow rig to self-level, turn off AHC, then turn off car. Or none of this really matters for Alignment?
I’ve seen people mention measuring from wheel center to fender. Unless you cross-hatch the center cap, there’s potentially a bit of error here, right? I’ve been measuring top of center cap to fender or top of rim to fender.
Other helpful links I’ve come across, for reference.
Lift it:
LX570 AHC height modifications (lift it!)
Bleed it:
LX570 AHC “Basics”
AHC history:
AHC History and possibilities
- Thread starter
- #66
yep! Make sure to take pictures of your values beforeyou make changes.
I know @radman mentioned the thought of this but....Is anyone concerned about doing the sensor lift (maxing the sensor out) and then not having any downward travel of the shock when in Hi mode offroad? How would maxing out the sensors and being in new N and then going to new Hi impact the travel? Can the shocks still move downward from there or are you 'topping out'? Sorry if this has been discussed in here already, I scrolled through fairly quickly and stopped for pictures 
I just swapped my Tundra TRD Pro's (still in the garage) with some TRD Rock Warriors wrapped in some 295/70/17's. I'm on the quest for 35's but found a semi-local deal on these and decided to make a pit stop on the 33's to check out the RW's and have had the spacers installed for coming up on 2 years.
I just swapped my Tundra TRD Pro's (still in the garage) with some TRD Rock Warriors wrapped in some 295/70/17's. I'm on the quest for 35's but found a semi-local deal on these and decided to make a pit stop on the 33's to check out the RW's and have had the spacers installed for coming up on 2 years.
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Youre only going to to get so much lift before youre near the end of the arms and they are bottoming out. I have lifted a few lx570s. I think the most on stock suspension you can get and still have some safe travel is 22" front hub center to fender. If you go to "high" after that you definitely will be near bottoming out. Been there and done that. Whats good about the sensor lift at 22" at normal is your riding around at max usable lift, looking good and theres no need to go to high, ever. I have run 305's and 33x12.50 KO2s on 20s and 17s. OEM hub to fender is ~19". I would never go more than 33" tire. Once you go there you lose the LX570 ride and comfort.
Agree - there is no reason to lift more than you need for everyday clearance/use. Additional daily lift is only cosmetic, and most all ride characteristics decrease with additional lift.
I don't find I've lost ride and comfort on my 35s. I will say that the band of acceptable on road tire pressure is very narrow, but once found no problems. I do have 129loadE, not the 121loadFlotation 35s. I think the 121loadFlotation versions would be a bit more forgiving. The 129 is a hefty hefty tire. Very stiff.
Don't forget to do a zero point calibration once the new height is set. I found traction control to be particularly sensitive after doing even a mild .75" sensor lift. Zero point cured that and traction controls wasn't prematurely shutting down the party on backroads any longer.
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Thanks for the awesome post radman!
I am getting ready to level my truck from side to side with my techstream and had a few questions before I start adjusting...
From your first post it looks like you can tell the computer you want to add 0.5" of height to a specific corner by entering a measured value of "4.5" and entering a standard value of "4.0". As long as the current "height adjust" cell value is "+0.3" this would put the new value in the "height adjust" cell at "+0.8") correct? I assume the "height adjust" value can range from "-0.8 to +0.8" but not above or below that amount.
For example if you had a screen shot with the full AHC utility lift on every corner it would look like this?
FR Height Adjust 0.8"
FL Height Adjust 0.8"
RR Height Adjust 0.8"
RL Height Adjust 0.8"
On the flip side I assume I could also lower a specific corner down by having a lower measured value than the standard value? For example if I had entered a measured value of "3.5" and a standard value of "4.0" that would lower that corner "0.5"? If I have all the corner sensors manually maxed out I could just drop them with this utility to level the corners out without readjusting the sensors manually if this is the case.
I am getting ready to level my truck from side to side with my techstream and had a few questions before I start adjusting...
From your first post it looks like you can tell the computer you want to add 0.5" of height to a specific corner by entering a measured value of "4.5" and entering a standard value of "4.0". As long as the current "height adjust" cell value is "+0.3" this would put the new value in the "height adjust" cell at "+0.8") correct? I assume the "height adjust" value can range from "-0.8 to +0.8" but not above or below that amount.
For example if you had a screen shot with the full AHC utility lift on every corner it would look like this?
FR Height Adjust 0.8"
FL Height Adjust 0.8"
RR Height Adjust 0.8"
RL Height Adjust 0.8"
On the flip side I assume I could also lower a specific corner down by having a lower measured value than the standard value? For example if I had entered a measured value of "3.5" and a standard value of "4.0" that would lower that corner "0.5"? If I have all the corner sensors manually maxed out I could just drop them with this utility to level the corners out without readjusting the sensors manually if this is the case.
- Thread starter
- #72
You got it.
The FSM has specific values for the "standard values", but we break all of those when we perform the manual sensor lift. The easy way to remember it is to input 2 numbers that differ by the value you need.
One of the Techstream values is "height offset max" and this is always .8
since it's hard to get the manual sensors perfect, I used the utility to fine tune my heights. This is why most of my offset heights are close to .5
Also, I don't think I've ever mentioned this before, but my rears seem to be somewhat connected. Meaning, dropping my RL affects my RR. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this...
Also, there may be times where you enter .5 difference in the values, but it doesn't save correctly for that corner. Simply do the same values again and see if it takes.
Also, you'll usually see movement after you save the offset, but you'll need to bounce the corners or take a quick drive around the block to see the proper change with a tape measure.
The FSM has specific values for the "standard values", but we break all of those when we perform the manual sensor lift. The easy way to remember it is to input 2 numbers that differ by the value you need.
One of the Techstream values is "height offset max" and this is always .8
since it's hard to get the manual sensors perfect, I used the utility to fine tune my heights. This is why most of my offset heights are close to .5
Also, I don't think I've ever mentioned this before, but my rears seem to be somewhat connected. Meaning, dropping my RL affects my RR. Not sure if anyone else has noticed this...
Also, there may be times where you enter .5 difference in the values, but it doesn't save correctly for that corner. Simply do the same values again and see if it takes.
Also, you'll usually see movement after you save the offset, but you'll need to bounce the corners or take a quick drive around the block to see the proper change with a tape measure.
Hey Radman,
Help me out here. I want to add height, so I tell the utility input that my measurement is higher than standard? That doesn't make sense but then again neither do the suspension repair manuals that Ive seen. Is there a copy floating around here that is up to date? I cant seem to get my car to level. I have about a .5"-1" lean to the drivers side on both front and rear that I cant get to go away. AHC HOU accepts my values and ive tried above and below standard and it just will not level out. Ive done it EXACTLY as the instructions suggest, both with and without jacking. DATA LIST values do in fact update, but the measurements just don't change at all on any corner. Should I pull battery for 10min? Should I take this in for a bad ECU? Its a 2017 LX570 and has no issues at all but this.
Also if anyone can chime in where can I find the zero point reset procedure?
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #74
Paste your data values? The instructions you're referencing are for leveling out the rig where Toyota wants it. That's why the "standard" values won't work for adding height.
Honestly, I don't even know what those steps are trying to accomplish by jacking up the car.
Also, keep in mind that you won't immediately see the new values after the HOU changes. Take a quick spin around the block to get the ahc moving around.
Honestly, I don't even know what those steps are trying to accomplish by jacking up the car.
Also, keep in mind that you won't immediately see the new values after the HOU changes. Take a quick spin around the block to get the ahc moving around.
I also wasn’t able to fix a tilt (high passenger rear to low driver front in the height offset utility) sometimes it would be level, sometimes it would resort to the tilt. I eventually just dialed it out with the physical lever adjustment.
Thanks Y’all, I’ve got several screenshots to post but here’s before and much much later
before:
After way too much fing around:
Shook car every corner, raised, lowered, drove around the block. I’m telling you I did everything I could think of. Car was in neutral in my garage on flat level ground, AHC fluid was bleed and flushed by me 2 weeks ago. Everything is good otherwise.
After some time I just went ahead and set the sensor levers exactly the same on all 4 using a shim i scavenged to make sure I’m tightening at the same spot on left and right in matched pairs. From factory they were all over the place and yet sensor position on data list got worse. I was sure when i did that I would see a change. I think I may just jack them all up and work from there but I do suspect something else is wrong here.
From my unrelated engineering background I believe the calculation the car makes is based on standard height, using offset against sensors. That’s why the jacking is done, to move the sensors into position, and apply offset values against that.
But what the he’ll do I know, if I could find the people who wrote the manual, I’d be in jail tonight.
before:
After way too much fing around:
Shook car every corner, raised, lowered, drove around the block. I’m telling you I did everything I could think of. Car was in neutral in my garage on flat level ground, AHC fluid was bleed and flushed by me 2 weeks ago. Everything is good otherwise.
After some time I just went ahead and set the sensor levers exactly the same on all 4 using a shim i scavenged to make sure I’m tightening at the same spot on left and right in matched pairs. From factory they were all over the place and yet sensor position on data list got worse. I was sure when i did that I would see a change. I think I may just jack them all up and work from there but I do suspect something else is wrong here.
From my unrelated engineering background I believe the calculation the car makes is based on standard height, using offset against sensors. That’s why the jacking is done, to move the sensors into position, and apply offset values against that.
But what the he’ll do I know, if I could find the people who wrote the manual, I’d be in jail tonight.
well none of us have the raw code, so it’s reverse engineering. Collectively we definitely know more than almost all dealer techs, but we’re still a couple facts short I think
- Thread starter
- #78
Look at your FR and FL height adjusts. There's your problem...
FR (passenger) is .7" higher than the driver. Is this consistent to your hand measurements?
Passenger rear is also .7" higher than driver.
HOU can only change this 4 height adjust values.
Edit: my bad. You started off as -.2" on both, and the -.7" is your attempt to fix the lean....
FR (passenger) is .7" higher than the driver. Is this consistent to your hand measurements?
Passenger rear is also .7" higher than driver.
HOU can only change this 4 height adjust values.
Edit: my bad. You started off as -.2" on both, and the -.7" is your attempt to fix the lean....
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Yeah that’s the thing. I can get it to read anything I want, but the FL is 10cm lower than the right no matter what It says. Even after sensor “balancing”.
I’m gonna disconnect battery tomorrow and see and report.
- Thread starter
- #80
Your height sensors are at different values. Were you parked in the same spot?
Your front left went from .1 to -.3
Edit: ahh, I you moved all the physical sensors.
I think the whole point of the HOU is that the sensors might have some fault tolerances. Even though you got them all Screwed in the exact same spot, that may not equate to perfection in the electronic world. So you get it close with the screws, then fine tune with the HOu. No clue why you're not seeing any movement.
If I make a big change in HOU. I can definitely feel/see that side moving.
Try changing your FL to 0.0 and see if the driver side raises after you save it.
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