AHC globe bleeding nut repair? (1 Viewer)

[stratus]

I noticed that one of 4 bleeding nuts (on the front right globe) is badly eaten by rust - 10mm spanner is too loose on it, 9 mm doesn't fit.
I couldn't bleed that side on this occasion, but next time I change the suspension fluid I would like to be prepared.

Are these bleeding nuts replaceable? Anyone has managed to repair/replace them?

 

[l3n0x]

49189-60010 - PLUG, BLEEDER SUSPENSION CONTROL
49177-60010 - CAP, BLEEDER PLUG SUSPENSION CONTROL

Try not to break the old one into the actuator (or accumulator as toyota calls these where the globes screw onto), because that would be a bad day.

 

[stratus]

49189-60010 - PLUG, BLEEDER SUSPENSION CONTROL
49177-60010 - CAP, BLEEDER PLUG SUSPENSION CONTROL

Try not to break the old one into the actuator, because that would be a bad day.

yes, I can see why...

Ideally I would need to read a couple of threads on this, maybe watch a youtube video, because I never took one apart before. It helps if you know exactly what you are doing in cases like this with a lot o corrosion.

I am thinking I should use adjustable spanner on the old 10mm bleeder nut?

 

[l3n0x]

yes, I can see why...

Ideally I would need to read a couple of threads on this, maybe watch a youtube video, because I never took one apart before. It helps if you know exactly what you are doing in cases like this with a lot o corrosion.

I am thinking I should use adjustable spanner on the old 10mm bleeder nut?

First of all, don’t be under the car when doing it, as it will drop down when you release the pressure.
It takes a 10mm I think, but I’d use a 10mm 6-point socket instead of a wrench to crack it loose, then switch to a wrench. (Maybe 11mm? Can’t remember)

 

[stratus]

49189-60010 - PLUG, BLEEDER SUSPENSION CONTROL
49177-60010 - CAP, BLEEDER PLUG SUSPENSION CONTROL

Try not to break the old one into the actuator (or accumulator as toyota calls these where the globes screw onto), because that would be a bad day.

Many thanks for the parts number by the way, these will need to be replaced in any case so I better start looking to order them

 

[stratus]

First of all, don’t be under the car when doing it, as it will drop down when you release the pressure.
It takes a 10mm I think, but I’d use a 10mm 6-point socket instead of a wrench to crack it loose, then switch to a wrench. (Maybe 11mm? Can’t remember)

The dropping part is a good point - it almost caught me when I was bleeding the rear. I think that should be mentioned in larger font letters in the DIYs on this forum, or maybe it is just me ...but it was scary, yes.

10mm is bleeding nut size, in my case the rust made it a 9,5mm))) therefore 10mm is too loose on it while 9 mm spanner is too small..

I never completely removed a bleeder - do I just unscrew the bleeding nut fully and then continue to unscrew it? I dont't remember any other nuts there...

 

[l3n0x]

The dropping part is a good point - it almost caught me when I was bleeding the rear. I think that should be mentioned in larger font letters in the DIYs on this forum, or maybe it is just me ...but it was scary, yes.

10mm is bleeding nut size, in my case the rust made it a 9,5mm))) therefore 10mm is too loose on it while 9 mm spanner is too small..

I never completely removed a bleeder - do I just unscrew the bleeding nut fully and then continue to unscrew it? I dont't remember any other nuts there...

Yes, it should just screw out all the way. It’s more of a bolt (with a hole in the center, and that's why it could snap more easily if badly corroded into place) than a nut. When I did the suspension replacement on mine, and mine is a very rusty truck, I was able to undo all of the bleeders without snapping them, so you have good chances Note that there is a 5th bleeder on the accumulator (the cylindrical thing under the drivers door), but I don't know if it uses the same bleeder screw as the other 4 or not:/

Maybe the mystery of the 5th bleeder is outlined in this thread:

Props to PADDO's AHC fluid replacement method!

I just had my AHC fluid replaced. My local indy shop quoted me over 3 hours labor. After reading many posts here that people were getting it done in an hour or less, I reached out to PADDO for advice. He provided me a step by step process that I gave to the local shop. They ended up following...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[stratus]

Yes, it should just screw out all the way. It’s more of a bolt (with a hole in the center, and that's why it could snap more easily if badly corroded into place) than a nut. When I did the suspension replacement on mine, and mine is a very rusty truck, I was able to undo all of the bleeders without snapping them, so you have good chances Note that there is a 5th bleeder on the accumulator (the cylindrical thing under the drivers door), but I don't know if it uses the same bleeder screw as the other 4 or not:/
View attachment 2353292

Maybe the mystery of the 5th bleeder is outlined in this thread:

Props to PADDO's AHC fluid replacement method!

I just had my AHC fluid replaced. My local indy shop quoted me over 3 hours labor. After reading many posts here that people were getting it done in an hour or less, I reached out to PADDO for advice. He provided me a step by step process that I gave to the local shop. They ended up following...

forum.ih8mud.com

Great info, many thanks! Going to read it now. Judging by the picture, there are 5 same size (the plastic bag has quantity 5 on it)

 

[uHu]

10mm is bleeding nut size, in my case the rust made it a 9,5mm))) therefore 10mm is too loose on it while 9 mm spanner is too small..

3/8 inch is just over 9.5 mm... Hammer it on.

 

[stratus]

3/8 inch is just over 9.5 mm... Hammer it on.

I never used my non metric (SAE?) sockets, now seems to be a good time. Thank you for the tip!

 

[LndXrsr]

I believe the accumulator bleeder screw is a different part number than the 4 dampers. It does have a different torque spec (62 in-lbf [5.5 ft-lbf, 7.5 N-m] for the accumulator vs 73 in-lbf [6.0 ft-lbf, 8.1 N-m] for the dampers).

Try lots of PB blaster over a series of days before attempting to loosen and recommend vise-grips or similar locking pliers if your wrenches don’t fit right due to rust.

 

[stratus]

I believe the accumulator bleeder screw is a different part number than the 4 dampers. It does have a different torque spec (62 in-lbf [5.5 ft-lbf, 7.5 N-m] for the accumulator vs 73 in-lbf [6.0 ft-lbf, 8.1 N-m] for the dampers).

Try lots of PB blaster over a series of days before attempting to loosen and recommend vise-grips or similar locking pliers if your wrenches don’t fit right due to rust.

Thank you. I continue the WD-40 treatment, I guess it is as good as PB bluster? I don't have PB blaster available here, but if it is superior to WD-40, I will order from States.

 

[LndXrsr]

Can you get the “WD-40 specialist rust release penetrant spray” or any other rust penetrating spray? They are more apt to work into the rusted threads than regular WD-40 but regular is better than nothing if it’s all you have. Either way, take your time with rust, don’t rush it.

 

[stratus]

Can you get the “WD-40 specialist rust release penetrant spray” or any other rust penetrating spray? They are more apt to work into the rusted threads than regular WD-40 but regular is better than nothing if it’s all you have. Either way, take your time with rust, don’t rush it.

Will have a look again for the penetrating oil spray.

As with accumulator bleeder, the other thread referenced here states 5 same screw bleeder. They look the same as well. Could it be that just the torque is different, while the part is the same?

 

[LndXrsr]

That’s quite possible. They look the same externally. If you’ve double checked, I’d get 5 of the same.

 

[stratus]

That’s quite possible. They look the same externally. If you’ve double checked, I’d get 5 of the same.

The pandemic situation makes that quite difficult- partsouq which normally ships to Europe, doesn't deliver now to me.

I found even a better price in the states, Hendrick Toyota Wilmington, but they only accept cards issued by US organizations. Anyone knows a places in the US that accepts PayPal (delivery to Delaware)?

 

[l3n0x]

The pandemic situation makes that quite difficult- partsouq which normally ships to Europe, doesn't deliver now to me.

I found even a better price in the states, Hendrick Toyota Wilmington, but they only accept cards issued by US organizations. Anyone knows a places in the US that accepts PayPal (delivery to Delaware)?

For such a low cost item the wisest would be to buy it from a toyota shop locally. They should be able to get it in a couple of days

 

[hoser]

@stratus Maybe you can add a PayPal Debit card to your account?

 

[stratus]

@stratus Maybe you can add a PayPal Debit card to your account?

I do have a UK bank account linked to my PayPal, however I was using a UK credit card when trying to make the payment.

However, the seller I war referring to earlier in this thread does not accept payPal, so I can't even try switching one card or another within PAyPAl

 

[stratus]

For such a low cost item the wisest would be to buy it from a toyota shop locally. They should be able to get it in a couple of days

My local dealer quoted me 3 weeks order time (which might go up due to the restrictions in place). I ordered more parts from the US in this order so the total was close to $100