AHC done? (1 Viewer)

[TEXAS 57]

Let me start by saying I love my AHC. I love the ride, I love the tune-ability and I like the up and down. 1999 LX470 with a little over 400,000 miles.

It’s broke and can’t fix it.
Now the backstory - we had a huge rainstorm and I am guessing the sunroof drains couldn’t handle the water (they were clear when I checked immediately after) and quite a bit of water came in down the driver A pillar and out of the dash about near the steering wheel.
Right after that, AHC OFF light blinks (car still running). I park the car, empty the floor mat, and dry what little water residue i see.

Next day get in the car and AHC OFF light is flashing. Hook up Techstream but can’t read codes, AHC defaulted to sport mode. Drove around like this for a couple months.

Cold weather lays in (Houston, TX) a couple days ago and AHC falls to low position. Dang it, now I have to fix it. With Thanksgiving holidays it gives me several days.

I break out the Techstream, Service manual and Electrical diagrams and get to work.

Checked fuses and replaced. Pulled relays and reinstalled.
B voltage starts at 12V but slowly drops to ~1-2V. Problem here.
I pull all three height sensors, ohm test them, clean them, retest, reinstall. They all check out.
Visibly check for leaks - nothing!
Disconnect every plug in the AHC system, spray with electrical contact cleaner, air gun dry, dielectric grease them, reconnect. There was no obvious damage.
After this, I got it to work for one day. While operating, i reset my torsion bars side to side and all numbers were all little high but but still in range (7.1). Accumulator was 10.1.
The next morning, went out, put it into High, Normal, then Low. When it went to low, AHC Off light started flashing again and I could not get it working again.
Following the Service Manual, using jumpers on DLC1, I could get codes 1731, 1732, 1733, 1734 and 1736.
Cleared Codes and got them all back except 1736.
Took the AHC switch apart and cleaned it.
Took the height sensors off again and retested them with a jig and 4.5V like the manual says. All tested fine.

Started testing continuity of the wires and all checked out.

I am guessing the AHC Control Module is fried.
I guess I could buy a used one off eBay and see if that works.
I have a used lift kit I bought a while back sitting in the corner that I can throw in if all else fails.
Any input or guidance from the AHC gurus out there?

 

[IndroCruise]

Let me start by saying I love my AHC. I love the ride, I love the tune-ability and I like the up and down. 1999 LX470 with a little over 400,000 miles.

It’s broke and can’t fix it.
Now the backstory - we had a huge rainstorm and I am guessing the sunroof drains couldn’t handle the water (they were clear when I checked immediately after) and quite a bit of water came in down the driver A pillar and out of the dash about near the steering wheel.
Right after that, AHC OFF light blinks (car still running). I park the car, empty the floor mat, and dry what little water residue i see.

Next day get in the car and AHC OFF light is flashing. Hook up Techstream but can’t read codes, AHC defaulted to sport mode. Drove around like this for a couple months.

Cold weather lays in (Houston, TX) a couple days ago and AHC falls to low position. Dang it, now I have to fix it. With Thanksgiving holidays it gives me several days.

I break out the Techstream, Service manual and Electrical diagrams and get to work.

Checked fuses and replaced. Pulled relays and reinstalled.
B voltage starts at 12V but slowly drops to ~1-2V. Problem here.
I pull all three height sensors, ohm test them, clean them, retest, reinstall. They all check out.
Visibly check for leaks - nothing!
Disconnect every plug in the AHC system, spray with electrical contact cleaner, air gun dry, dielectric grease them, reconnect. There was no obvious damage.
After this, I got it to work for one day. While operating, i reset my torsion bars side to side and all numbers were all little high but but still in range (7.1). Accumulator was 10.1.
The next morning, went out, put it into High, Normal, then Low. When it went to low, AHC Off light started flashing again and I could not get it working again.
Following the Service Manual, using jumpers on DLC1, I could get codes 1731, 1732, 1733, 1734 and 1736.
Cleared Codes and got them all back except 1736.
Took the AHC switch apart and cleaned it.
Took the height sensors off again and retested them with a jig and 4.5V like the manual says. All tested fine.
View attachment 3178932
Started testing continuity of the wires and all checked out.
View attachment 3178933

I am guessing the AHC Control Module is fried.
I guess I could buy a used one off eBay and see if that works.
I have a used lift kit I bought a while back sitting in the corner that I can throw in if all else fails.
Any input or guidance from the AHC gurus out there?

Phew!! Very comprehensive series of checks already done!

The DTC's mentioned relate to the valves in the Control Valve Assembly and to the Height Control Accumulator.

The “fail safe function” for these DTC’s reads as follows:
“If trouble occurs in the Control Valve Assembly circuit, the ECU prohibits the Height Control and fixed the damping force at the Sports mode”.

This seems to match the symptoms described.

I see the FSM on the car seat -- the Diagnostics section would contain something similar to the first attachment, setting out the performance tests and the electrical tests for the valves inside the Control Valve Assembly and the solenoid valve at the Height Control Accumulator.

Suggest as follows:

• If not already done, check the junction box in the footwell forward of the LHS front door -- looking for wetness after the storm and possible current leakage and confused signals coming out of this area,

• While there and if not already done, check the AHC-IG fuse and the AHC-B fuse which are located in this junction box,

• Check out the resistances of the valves in the Control Valve Assembly itself as described in the FSM, and also the solenoid valve at the Height Control Accumulator -- both on either side of the mid-point of the LHS chassis rail,

If OK, the question then is whether the circuits (meaning the connectors and harnesses) are OK all the way from the Control Valve Assembly and the Height Control Accumulator back to the ECU.

• Suggest burrow in under the dash, looking for the Suspension Electronic Control Unit (and also the AHC Main Relay which should be found on or near the ECU),

• Pull the connectors at the ECU and inspect for wetness from the storm -- does it look like water has entered the ECU? If so, that is likely to be a show stopper,

• If all seems dry around ECU area, pull the AHC Main Relay and check health of this relay per FSM (nothing mentioned points to this relay but nothing in AHC and TEMS will work if this relay is not healthy),

• Check out Power Source Circuit per FSM (see second attachment) for power at ECU,

• Check out continuity of the relevant wires (see FSM) from the ECU connector back to the connectors at the Control Valve Assembly,

Seems enough for now -- a reportback would be good at this point .....

 

[BillW]

I recently deleted AHC on my ‘99. May have parts you need. PM what you need when you get it narrowed down.

 

[2001LC]

You said you checked and cleaned all wire housing block. But did you!

Water entry in LH foot well, seems to be the start of issue. So I'd check wire blocks there, which are not water tight wire housing blocks. I'd also look under vehicle rear 1/4 LH. As we drive water flings up there. We're finding some exterior blocks aren't sealing out water very well. You can check resistance from block to block.

The wire housing block coming off the AHC CPU, heads down to LH foot well behind kick plate, where you'll find the next wire housing block. It then head to rear 1/4 LH, before penetrating out of cabin at rear 1/4.


CPU wire housing block

Wire block at bottom rear of LH foot well behind kick panel.

Kick panel wires goes under carpet and routs to LH rear 1/4 panel. Where they drops out under vehicle. There's another wire block under vehicle rear 1/4 in very back, you can see from under vehicle.

Note: Not just any AHC CPU is compatible. Do your homework, if planning on trying any used or new one.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think you need some lead by lead testing with the EWD (electric wiring diagrams). I found a bad conductor along the frame rail on the drivers side that gave similar problems.

I suspect it's not the ECU (it seems like it's almost never the ECU), but rather a bad wire or two. Easy and cheap fix.... just hard to find which one needs fixing!

I think I've got a 99 LX wiring book in the shop. Let me know if you need pictures of the relevant pages.

 

[TEXAS 57]

First off, thanks for all the responses.

@IndroCruise
I checked the LHS junction block and everything was dry and looked good. Thanks for the suggestion as I did forget.

Fuses were swapped earlier but I did do them again.

I thought I ohm’d out the control valve earlier but I only checked continuity of the wires. Checking the Control Valve I found only 3.4 ohms between terminal 2 and the rest of the terminals (1,3,4,5).
I think that may be my issue.

Accumulator valve ohm’d out at 3.6 so there was continuity there.

Also, I do have the EWD, FSM and Techstream.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Update:
Well, I messed up.

BillW sent me a Control Valve.

I decided to check the Control Valve BillW sent me by ohm'ing it out and I got the same readings as I did when I checked mine (3.4 ohms). Uh oh!

I went back to check mine and it was 3.4 ohms as well. I checked the book (page DI-262) and it said it just needed continuity then I saw my issue - I accidentally flipped to page DI 258 and was reading section 3 (Check Damping Force Control Actuator) which coincidentally has the same connector and test but has actual readings (12.0-13.6 ohms).
The test I should have read is on page DI-262 (3. Check Control Valve Solenoid and Accumulator Solenoid) which just needed continuity. Doh!

I checked the Relays and they both work fine so I started checking the circuits (Motor Relay and Main Relay).

I kept running through the tests in the FSM and got to page DI-269, #2, (Check Voltage Between Terminal MRLY of Suspension Control ECU and Body Ground) and I got no voltage with the key on and I should get 9-14V. If No Good, Check and Replace Suspension Control ECU.

That leads me back to my first assumption of the AHC ECU.

 

[2001LC]

It's possible the AHC ECU bad, but not very likely. If you do try a used ECU. Be aware factory did change PN#'s. There is 2 possibly 3 PN #'s. I suspect the change was do to issue, in older model ECU like you have. Was issue a fault or just to get better ride, IDK.

I went down same rabbit hole you're going down, with an 01LX. I too got indications ECU bad. Of the many AHC issue this 01LX had. It was rear 1/4 wiring after it exited cabin. That was the most difficult to find and isolate. Today having now dealt with this short, I could isolate much faster.

Have you checked the wires and wiring housing blocks, along rear 1/4 frame LH. If not you should! @suprarx7nut (wire) and I (wire housing block), have both had issue with this section of harness. Which we've both mentioned above too you. Both of us in the end, dealt with same portion of AHC wiring harness, to solve issue, we thought ECU. This section runs form rear undercarriage along frame, forward to rear sensor and controller.

In the cruddy looking rear wire housing block, I pictured above (post #4). It was intermittently working than not working. Made it even more difficult to find.

This same 01LX, also had damaged to sensor arm balls which had all seized. Which damaged some of the sensors. I'd get one issue fixed, and it would fail again, a few miles or few thousand miles later intermittently. Water seem to be involved. In that washing undercarriage and driving on wet HWY. Would sometimes seemed to cause AHC would fail, others times it would get it to work. I was getting indication of a bad ECU & controller. One thing I was seeing, "+B Power Source Voltage" low (see below). Not always this 1.9V low, but always at least 1 or 2 volts lower than "A". Another thing that would happen when working, is Mpa kept increasing after set (sometimes).

In the 3rd & 4th picture above post #4. Is the wire housing block behind LH foot-well molding, at floor just forward of step threshold. Wires from there head to rear, then exit at rear 1/4, then travel under vehicle body along frame forward to rear sensor and controller. You can check resistance, form LH foot well, to wire at controller and rear sensor. Further isolate from rear 1/4 to rear sensor and controller and or LH foot well to where it exits rear 1/4. This last leg along frame harness may travel to other points, I don't recall. Wire diagram well help with that info.

 

[IndroCruise]

It's possible the AHC ECU bad, but not very likely. If you do try a used ECU. Be aware factory did change PN#'s. There is 2 possibly 3 PN #'s. I suspect the change was do to issue, in older model ECU like you have. Was issue a fault or just to get better ride, IDK.

I went down same rabbit hole you're going down, with an 01LX. I too got indications ECU bad. Of the many AHC issue this 01LX had. It was rear 1/4 wiring after it exited cabin. That was the most difficult to find and isolate. Today having now dealt with this short, I could isolate much faster.

Have you checked the wires and wiring housing blocks, along rear 1/4 frame LH. If not you should! @suprarx7nut (wire) and I (wire housing block), have both had issue with this section of harness. Which we've both mentioned above too you. Both of us in the end, dealt with same portion of AHC wiring harness, to solve issue, we thought ECU. This section runs form rear undercarriage along frame, forward to rear sensor and controller.

In the cruddy looking rear wire housing block, I pictured above (post #4). It was intermittently working than not working. Made it even more difficult to find.

This same 01LX, also had damaged to sensor arm balls which had all seized. Which damaged some of the sensors. I'd get one issue fixed, and it would fail again, a few miles or few thousand miles later intermittently. Water seem to be involved. In that washing undercarriage and driving on wet HWY. Would sometimes seemed to cause AHC would fail, others times it would get it to work. I was getting indication of a bad ECU & controller. One thing I was seeing, "+B Power Source Voltage" low (see below). Not always this 1.9V low, but always at least 1 or 2 volts lower than "A". Another thing that would happen when working, is Mpa kept increasing after set (sometimes).

In the 3rd & 4th picture above post #4. Is the wire housing block behind LH foot-well molding, at floor just forward of step threshold. Wires from there head to rear, then exit at rear 1/4, then travel under vehicle body along frame forward to rear sensor and controller. You can check resistance, form LH foot well, to wire at controller and rear sensor. Further isolate from rear 1/4 to rear sensor and controller and or LH foot well to where it exits rear 1/4. This last leg along frame harness may travel to other points, I don't recall. Wire diagram well help with that info.

View attachment 3183665

Just to add emphasis to the observations by @2001LC ....

If not already done, suggest cruise the thread below from about Post #250 to Post #260. The discussion between @suprarx7nut, @2001LC and @Moridinbg may be helpful. There are a lot of excellent pictures and explanations in these posts which help to identify the connectors and harness parts under discussion – particularly the “body off” pics provided by @Moridinbg and the later comments in the same thread by @2001LC:

The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place

Many of the Toyota AHC fluid in black plastic 1 liter bottles, have been found to have jelled. Seems mid to early 2021 (a lot of reports out of TX), have jelled. It may have to do with plastic reaction with the fluid. Toyota witched back to the 2.5 liter tin cans, mid to late 2021.. I have 2...

forum.ih8mud.com

The relevant connectors can be seen from under the vehicle at the LHS rear quarter panel, high up and furthest to the rear – see pic below for 2006 HDJ100R with AHC. @suprarx7nut previously has reported faults in “BI1” connectors on UZJ100L vehicles and this also seems to be the experience of @2001LC. (Note: “BI1” connector -- as in Bravo India One).

This “BI1” location is a great place for debris to collect in underbody conditions. This and other nearby connectors are supposed to be waterproof and even capable of immersion – but who knows what condition the seals may be in after 15 to 24 years of being sprayed with water, road grit, gravel, sand, mud, salt, snow or whatever, in hot and cold conditions – all good recipes for seal degradation over time.

Looking up at “BI1”, “BI2” connectors in situ behind LHS rear quarter panel:

Please note that the pics and the attached EWD relate to 2006 HDJ100R – meaning Right Hand Drive Landcruiser with 1HD-FTE turbodiesel and with AHC/TEMS. There will be differences in detail with earlier UZJ100L vehicles and maybe some difference between LC and LX. The relevant FSM should be consulted. However, a quick review suggests that these particular connectors appear to be in the same body location across the "100 series" model range where AHC is fitted.

Location of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” connectors and harness routing:

Identification of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” connectors:

The attached AHC 2006 EWD markup highlights the position of the "BI1", "BI2", and "BI3" connectors in various circuits.

It can be seen in this example that these connectors are implicated in ultimate connections to the ECU and also to the Control Valve Assembly circuits, and the Height Control Accumulator circuit, as well as other circuits.

DTC’s were indicated in previous Post #1 in this thread concerning the Control Valve Assembly circuits.

DTC's always relate to faults in a designated circuit, and not necessarily to a fault in an actual component itself.

The presence of a DTC always indicates a definite fault in the relevant circuit and needs to be pursued. (However, absence of a DTC may not provide assurance that all is well -- the Height Control Sensors are a common example of this, but that is another story, discussed elsewhere).

It would seem worthwhile to check ALL of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” and nearby wiring for damage and to check for continuity of all circuits at these points at least back to the next connector and preferably back to the ECU connectors.

All three connectors, “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3”, are located in the same general area behind the LHS rear quarter panel. All are involved in multiple AHC circuits.

A problem connector or a broken wire (usually nearby) will cause disruption to the relevant AHC circuit.

In my own case, I have yet to be able to disconnect these connectors to check them and check circuit continuity. The connectors maybe frozen with age and grit or maybe it is just my ineptitude! My excuse is that vehicle now is with family in Perth which is about 4,300 road kilometres (2,700 miles) on the other side of Australia from my Brisbane home and I cannot get to it very often! My interest is deep suspicion in my case about whether the Height Control Accumulator is functioning correctly (even after replacing the Height Control Accumulator and double-checking solenoid valve health) because there seems to be no supporting pressure and volume when the vehicle is asked to raise. The vehicle just performs a long and slow raise powered by the (new) AHC Pump alone. In my case there seems to be no effect on TEMS performance. Once at "N" height the ride is excellent (allowing for BFG KO2 Light Truck tyres on 17 inch wheels running at 40psi on highways plus allowing for the higher spring rate of the replacement KING KTRS-79 rear springs). There are excellent and different damping responses in the four steps from “Comfort” through to “Sport” on the centre console switch. AHC and TEMS are all good except for the raise time!!

The point of this and other posts is that this part of the AHC harness and these problematic connectors in particular seem capable of causing multiple possible and different aberrations in AHC and TEMS performance and symptoms. These may occur with or without relevant DTC's, because multiple circuits are involved. It is suggested that these connectors and circuits are worth checking in the circumstances described by @TEXAS 57, or in similar circumstances where the more obvious causes of problems have been eliminated.

As mentioned by @2001LC, there are differences in ECU’s -- LHD is different to RHD and there are differences across some models and model years -- and so there are a several different part numbers. If intending to change out the Suspension Electronic Control Unit (ECU), suggest first pull the existing ECU sufficiently to see the part number marked on it, so as to obtain the correct replacement.

As @TEXAS 57 experiences demonstrate, sometimes patience and persistence is necessary. In my case at least, the AHC system along with the integrated TEMS system are ‘keepers’, and far too good to discard!! Some maintenance and replacement after 15 to 24 years is to be expected -- in much the same way as any other system on these vehicles.

 

[2001LC]

Just to add emphasis to the observations by @2001LC ....

If not already done, suggest cruise the thread below from about Post #250 to Post #260. The discussion between @suprarx7nut, @2001LC and @Moridinbg may be helpful. There are a lot of excellent pictures and explanations in these posts which help to identify the connectors and harness parts under discussion – particularly the “body off” pics provided by @Moridinbg and the later comments in the same thread by @2001LC:

The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place

Many of the Toyota AHC fluid in black plastic 1 liter bottles, have been found to have jelled. Seems mid to early 2021 (a lot of reports out of TX), have jelled. It may have to do with plastic reaction with the fluid. Toyota witched back to the 2.5 liter tin cans, mid to late 2021.. I have 2...

forum.ih8mud.com

The relevant connectors can be seen from under the vehicle at the LHS rear quarter panel, high up and furthest to the rear – see pic below for 2006 HDJ100R with AHC. @suprarx7nut previously has reported faults in “BI1” connectors on UZJ100L vehicles and this also seems to be the experience of @2001LC. (Note: The “BI1” connector -- as in Bravo India One -- is not to be confused with the “Bi1”connector which is different and located elsewhere).

This “BI1” location is a great place for debris to collect in underbody conditions. This and other nearby connectors are supposed to be waterproof and even capable of immersion – but who knows what condition the seals may be in after 15 to 24 years of being sprayed with water, road grit, gravel, sand, mud, salt, snow or whatever, in hot and cold conditions – all good recipes for seal degradation over time.

Looking up at “BI1”, “BI2” connectors in situ behind LHS rear quarter panel:

View attachment 3184159

Please note that the pics and the attached EWD relate to 2006 HDJ100R – meaning Right Hand Drive Landcruiser with 1HD-FTE turbodiesel and with AHC/TEMS. There will be differences in detail with earlier UZJ100L vehicles and maybe some difference between LC and LX. The relevant FSM should be consulted. However, a quick review suggests that these particular connectors appear to be in the same body location across the "100 series" model range where AHC is fitted.

Location of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” connectors and harness routing:

View attachment 3184180

Identification of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” connectors:
View attachment 3184181

The attached AHC 2006 EWD markup highlights the position of the "BI1", "BI2", and "BI3" connectors in various circuits.

It can be seen in this example that these connectors are implicated in ultimate connections to the ECU and also to the Control Valve Assembly circuits, and the Height Control Accumulator circuit, as well as other circuits.

DTC’s were indicated in previous Post #1 in this thread concerning the Control Valve Assembly circuits.

DTC's always relate to faults in a designated circuit, and not necessarily to a fault in an actual component itself.

The presence of a DTC always indicates a definite fault in the relevant circuit and needs to be pursued. (However, absence of a DTC may not provide assurance that all is well -- the Height Control Sensors are a common example of this, but that is another story, discussed elsewhere).

It would seem worthwhile to check ALL of “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3” and nearby wiring for damage and to check for continuity of all circuits at these points at least back to the next connector and preferably back to the ECU connectors.

All three connectors, “BI1”, “BI2” and “BI3”, are located in the same general area behind the LHS rear quarter panel. All are involved in multiple AHC circuits.

A problem connector or a broken wire (usually nearby) will cause disruption to the relevant AHC circuit.

In my own case, I have yet to be able to disconnect these connectors to check them and check circuit continuity. The connectors maybe frozen with age and grit or maybe it is just my ineptitude! My excuse is that vehicle now is with family in Perth which is about 4,300 road kilometres (2,700 miles) on the other side of Australia from my Brisbane home and I cannot get to it very often! My interest is deep suspicion in my case about whether the Height Control Accumulator is functioning correctly (even after replacing the Height Control Accumulator and double-checking solenoid valve health) because there seems to be no supporting pressure and volume when the vehicle is asked to raise. The vehicle just performs a long and slow raise powered by the (new) AHC Pump alone. In my case there seems to be no effect on TEMS performance. Once at "N" height the ride is excellent (allowing for BFG KO2 Light Truck tyres on 17 inch wheels running at 40psi on highways plus allowing for the higher spring rate of the replacement KING KTRS-79 rear springs). There are excellent differential damping responses in the four steps from “Comfort” through to “Sport” on the centre console switch. It is all good except for the raise time!!

The point of this and other posts is that this part of the AHC harness and these problematic connectors in particular seem capable of causing multiple possible and different aberrations in AHC and TEMS performance and symptoms. These may occur with or without relevant DTC's, because multiple circuits are involved. It is suggested that these connectors and circuits are worth checking in the circumstances described by @TEXAS 57, or in similar circumstances where the more obvious causes of problems have been eliminated.

As mentioned by @2001LC, there are differences in ECU’s -- LHD is different to RHD and there are differences across some models and model years -- and so there are a several different part numbers. If intending to change out the Suspension Electronic Control Unit (ECU), suggest first pull the existing ECU sufficiently to see the part number marked on it, so as to obtain the correct replacement.

As @TEXAS 57 experiences demonstrate, sometimes patience and persistence is necessary. In my case at least, the AHC system along with the integrated TEMS system are ‘keepers’, and far too good to discard!! Some maintenance and replacement after 15 to 24 years is to be expected -- in much the same way as any other system on these vehicles.

You are so good, at lay this stuff out. KUDOS!

I'll add: If replace ECU. Not only look at your's PN. But pull PN by VIN#, see if it sub to a newer PN. Use newest PN if you can. Don't use with PN #, older than what you have now.

But again. Looking at this wire harness first, may save you time and money.

 

[TEXAS 57]

My mistake, i thought y'all were talking about the connector under the LH rear door. I did not realize all the AHC wiring went backwards that far.

I was able to get Bi1 and Bi3 disconnected, cleaned, greased and put back together. There sure was a lot of dirt that poured out of that wiring sleeve. The connections looked pristine.

I am unable to get the grey one (Bi2) disconnected. Any hints or tips on that one? I am afraid I am going to break some stuff if I put any more pull on it.

 

[Jack90210]

This is a great thread. Thanks for all of the info, everyone. Hope you get it sorted, @TEXAS 57 !

 

[84bj60]

Ditto on the excellent thread. I just replaced my pressure sensor myself on my 02 lx470 at recommendation of local Toyota dealership after confirming the 3 codes I already pulled. Rule of thumb here is never trust the dealership. 750 quoted from dealership (for the part alone), paid 330 shipped from Dubai. still didn't fix it and I'm stuck in low sport mode... I have control valve and pressure sensor circuit faults present. Will look into harness issues

Thanks for all the highly detailed pictures and posts all.