Aftermarket Tachometer issue-resolved (1 Viewer)

[Richfj60]

Hi all,
This may only pertain to a few of you and maybe more of a rant than a tip, but if it saves one guy the hours I spent, it will be worth it. First, I have an LS swap in my 62 and Autometer gauges. My tach wasn't working after a repair by Autometer. Just of it - You may need to boost your tach signal from the ECU with a bridge resistor between the power and the tach signal. I used a 10k 1 Watt resistor, although they called for a 10k 1/2W resistor in the Autometer FAQ. It worked for me.

Prior to my restoration of the interior, my Autometer gauges worked fairly well. Had an issue with the fuel gauge (still kinda do) that was mostly attributed to a poor ground, but everything worked. So I am redoing the interior and the tach lease is cloudy. I call Autometer and they said to send it in and they will repair. Awesome I think. Send it in, and after a month, they return it and it doesn't work! . So I send it back in. They immediately send it back saying it is fine. WTF??? Turns out they have an FAQ for LS swaps and that you may need the bridge resistor. Not sure what changed in the repair of my gauge, but it didn't work without the resistor. What really pisses me off is that not once did they ask about the LS or direct me to the FAQ page.

 

[Spook50]

Your 10k is 10k, so no worries. The wattage is simply the amount of power in heat that it can dissipate safely before a potential of problems or damage. Whenever I use resistors in a circuit, I use the highest wattage I can feasibly fit and source.

Basically the only thing you did different was add an extra margin of safety over what Autometer recommended (which I'm sure was already plenty safe. Liability and all that), so you're good to go.