Aftermarket Stereo (HU) Install (1 Viewer)

[Underdog]

Just installed an Alpine CDA-9813 and its pretty sweet. My stock CD died and I wanted to play MP3s. I'm using the internal amp and I wired it up using Metra cables so it was all plug and play. I ran 10 guage power and ground from the battery though as the factory power wire in the harness is too small. I also set up 2 power blocks, 1 switched and the other constant. I hooked up some extra lighter sockets and a converter so I can plug in my phone, computer or any of the kids' stuff. Next step will be some new speakers after I recover. Currently, all the speakers work and it doesn't sound bad but I know when I replace the speakers it will be like "WOW!!"

Anyways, the Alpine took me 3 days to install. Why you ask? It kept heating up and would shut off after a song or 2 with the tuner on. Disks would play OK. I even took the original unit back and exchanged it but the second acted the same. Went out to the stereo installer boards and nobody helped. I even found a post from a year ago from a guy with the same problem in a '94 like mine.

Then I remembered way back in my beer-soaked brain a post I had read here and somebody said to "not connect the power antenna lead." I remembered wondering "why would there be a power antenna lead when we don't have automatic power antennas?" So, I took that lead wire out of the harness and all is well! Heat sink never got over about 85 degrees after 10 minutes so I bolted it in and buttoned up the dash. Love that fan that Toyota put in there for us!

Anybody know why this happens or am I just crazy?

Randy

 

[MoJ]

Do you mean the lead to raise the antenna or the actual coaxal signal lead? Sorry, a bit confused. Not using the up/down connection would make sense (dash buttons do that) but if you don't use the signal lead how will the antenna do its job?

 

[Underdog]

Sorry to confuse. It was not the antenna connection but the lead in the harness for the power antenna. In the LC ('94 at least) it is a read/black wire in the harness. I don't know why its there because we don't have automatic power antennas. All I know is it created havoc when the when hooked up to the stereo. Anybody else see this problem before?

Beautiful Dallas day this morning and I had the sunroof open on my drive to work rockin' to some old Police. Already hit the limits of the stock speakers so I think I will run by Car Toys this PM and see what they can fit in the doors for me!

 

[MoJ]

Thanks, good to know.
Don't stand so close to me.

 

[PHAEDRUS]

I thought on the stock stereo that the mast retracts when you shut down power or put in a cd? Dont know as mine was a/m when I bought it but I thought guys were having issues with it not going all the way down at these times. maybe that is what the wire in the harness does.
Dave

 

[MoJ]

I believe it only operates automatically on the newer (96-97?) FZJ80's and LX450. On a 94 you raise/lower using the up/down buttons. My 91 was the same way.

 

[Underdog]

That is probably why the Metra harness has that wire in it (for the newer models). I just can't figure out why my truck harness has it unless its different for other countries or maybe optional.

Now my new problem: my 5-year old daughter now wants to listen to her Britney Spears CD and she has commandeered the new remote!

 

[T Y L E R]

Ahhhh ... the Police

..."Anahssser lonely day since we first metttt ... it's a big enough umbrella , but it's always me that ends up getting wettttt"...

[color=555555]T[/color][color=2E3136]T[/color][color=555555]Y[/color][color=2E3136]Y[/color][color=555555]L[/color][color=2E3136]L[/color][color=555555]E[/color][color=2E3136]E[/color][color=555555]R[/color][color=2E3136]R[/color]​

[color=00FF00]E-mail[/color]​

​

​

 

[ppc]

The EWD is weak in this area but it looks like the RED/Black wire is the switching wire for the two amps (sub in back and front/rear near the glove box. When you are connecting an aftermarket stereo using the “two plugs” instead of the one plug used in the factory radio, the door speakers will then be connected to both the output of the new head unit and the output of the OEM amp that are both turned on. The OEM amp will be at idle because of no input signal. At this point you have disabled the sub amp for whatever that is worth. My solution to the problem would be to unplug the amp near the glove box and reconnect the Red/Black harness wire. The sub should function properly and the new head unit generating normal heat. They way you have it setup now the OEM amp is turned off but the speaker outputs are still connected to it and I would think that would effect the signal quality.

 

[Bryan E.]

Hey Randy,

Nice to hear from someone else from Dallas. I'm in Carrollton, and just did front and rear door speakers in my 94LC. I highly recommend FOCAL speakers. Buy from E-bay for half price then install yourself. I'm still needing to do the head unit, and a custom sub enclosure. Speakers make a huge difference for sure!!

Bryan

 

[Underdog]

Bryan,

We're neighbors, I'm in far west plano. Its funny but a friend of mine just told me to get Focals and I checked them out on the net and they looked like they would be way too deep. I was fixin' to head over to Car Toys and check them out. Do you have any model numbers and what does the install look like? Any pics?

ppc,

I understand your saying and I'll check it out when I get the new speakers. Right now the sub does work (I guess being driven by the internal amp) and the sound quality is great except that I keep rattling the stock speakers when I turn it up!

 

[warpdriv]

Hey Brian and Randy,

Y'all should check out www.lslc.org (Lone Star Land Cruisers). The DFW chapter has a lot of great people up there.

Later,