Aftermarket radio wiring help

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Aug 28, 2007
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Norfolk, Virginia
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I purchased an inexpensive aftermarket radio (Pyle) for my 78 fj40. The radio comes with two harness connectors, one for power the other for speakers. I have looked all over for guidance and pictures as to where to connect the power wires to. Can anyone point me to a thread that has pictures on how to wire this, or tell me "SPECIFICALLY" which wires to connect to. I don't want to make something simple into something big. Thanks
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I ran new wires directly to the fuse box - the cigarette lighter is always on so that is your constant power. I can't remember which one I ran for the power on at ignition - but there are 3-4 tabs available to plug into on the fuse box if I remember correctly. Run home runs then you know everything is clean.
 
First various stereos have the keyed power and constant power setup differently. Most I have dealt with have constant as red and keyed yellow. Not saying you are wrong just verify with the radios included diagram. The next question would be did your cruiser originally have a radio installed?
 
First various stereos have the keyed power and constant power setup differently. Most I have dealt with have constant as red and keyed yellow. Not saying you are wrong just verify with the radios included diagram. The next question would be did your cruiser originally have a radio installed?

Yes, the PO had an aftermarket radio which stopped working in the summer. When I pulled it out there were wires spliced everywhere. Just a big mess. I will double check the constant wire color again. Do you run the constant power directly off the fuse box and if so where? I have read that keyed power can come off the cigarette lighter, is that also hooked to the fuse box or spliced into the cigarette wire itself.
 
My cruiser is a 74 and the fuse box has tabs on the backside where you can connect wires. I'm traveling otherwise would take photos.

Seriously just run new wires it is a short run. Forget the splicing. Constant power connect to cigarette lighter and you should have a radio/windshield wiper tab you can connect to as well. Use the appropriate gauge wire and you will be good to go!
 
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So after removing the fuse panel i see where the PO tapped into the radio wire. But scratching my head as to why there is a 3A fuse down the line? Just going to remove all the old radio wiring anyways.
 
My cruiser is a 74 and the fuse box has tabs on the backside where you can connect wires. I'm traveling otherwise would take photos.

Seriously just run new wires it is a short run. Forget the splicing. Constant power connect to cigarette lighter and you should have a radio/windshield wiper tab you can connect to as well. Use the appropriate gauge wire and you will be good to go!

Thanks, if you do get the chance some time can you post a photo?
 
The three amp fuse is probably for the previous radios protection. If your deck is newer there is probably a fuse built directly into the back of your radio. If you are cool running new wires then do so. My guess is that the PO ran that one you see out of the fuse box for his constant power. Looking at a 78 FJ wiring diagram it only shows one power wire, and its the keyed power running to the radio. This is likely because it had no memory to lose, for example preset radio stations, time, etc. like new radios. So if you still have the same wiring back in the dash it should be a Light Blue and Red colored wire that would be the ignition switch power.

Prior to cutting all the wires and running new ones you may just want to see if you can fire your deck up with whats available. Just make sure you attach the ground to a good spot prior to hooking up your power wires. Just as a test you could hook up your ground wire to a stable ground and touch the wire currently coming off your fuse box to your radio wire labeled constant power. Your deck will likely have a little red or green light that comes on to let you know its in standby and maintaining memory presets, etc. If that works its as simple as finding your keyed power source and hooking that up.

Also you won't need that blue power antenna wire. Just tape it off or leave it hanging as is. Its only if you have an antenna that is one of the power extender types.
 
The three amp fuse is probably for the previous radios protection. If your deck is newer there is probably a fuse built directly into the back of your radio. If you are cool running new wires then do so. My guess is that the PO ran that one you see out of the fuse box for his constant power. Looking at a 78 FJ wiring diagram it only shows one power wire, and its the keyed power running to the radio. This is likely because it had no memory to lose, for example preset radio stations, time, etc. like new radios. So if you still have the same wiring back in the dash it should be a Light Blue and Red colored wire that would be the ignition switch power.

Prior to cutting all the wires and running new ones you may just want to see if you can fire your deck up with whats available. Just make sure you attach the ground to a good spot prior to hooking up your power wires. Just as a test you could hook up your ground wire to a stable ground and touch the wire currently coming off your fuse box to your radio wire labeled constant power. Your deck will likely have a little red or green light that comes on to let you know its in standby and maintaining memory presets, etc. If that works its as simple as finding your keyed power source and hooking that up.

Also you won't need that blue power antenna wire. Just tape it off or leave it hanging as is. Its only if you have an antenna that is one of the power extender types.

Yes going to run new wires, just a mess what's in there now. What gauge wire should I purchase? I appreciate you input. Thanks, Steve
 
At least 14 AWG - I think I went 12 AWG just to play it safe plus I had a longer run to the Tuffy console. Overkill though. Hard to go wrong bigger but too small you can fry the wire - learned that from my car stereo competition days...
 
View attachment 1019728 So after removing the fuse panel i see where the PO tapped into the radio wire. But scratching my head as to why there is a 3A fuse down the line? Just going to remove all the old radio wiring anyways.

There aren't tabs on the other side? I know I had at least one more and I'm thinking two. Check out the other side to be certain. It looks like my fuse box did with the big green plug.
 
No problem good luck with your install. Keep us posted. There is not much I can help people with on this forum but I do know car stereo pretty well. If you check out my thread I detail my car stereo install some. Complete with subwoofer and multi-channel amp! Gotta have good tunes in a vehicle as loud as ours... :)
 
Although there there is no official wiring standard in the car radio world, most (not all) manufacturers follow this color code:
RED switched 12V from ignition key
YELLOW constant 12V for memory
BLUE power output for automatic antenna or antenna amplifier
BLACK is ground

On early Cruisers there is a BLUE wire behind the dash for the radio that comes from the wiper fuse.
On later Cruisers there is a BLUE/RED wire behind the dash that comes from a dedicated radio fuse.
The cigarette lighter is always live so you can use that for constant 12V.
Depending on the age of the radio there is/was an in line fuse in the red wire or a build in fuse on the back of the radio
Reason is that if the radio malfunctions and there is no fuse it would take out the wiper fuse or any other fuse where it is hooked up to.

HTH,

Rudi
 
This is the dash cut by prior owner in my 1974 FJ40.
The red/blue looks like it has been butt connected and is probably the dedicated radio power.
I assume the black is ground, and the yellow is memory power.

The weird thing is that I have power to both yellow and red(red/blue) even without the key in the ignition.

The black has no power and thus I believe it is ground.

Is this correct? Do I need to change something before installing a near-period correct am/fm toyota stereo

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