Aftermarket Fuel Pump or OEM? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 22, 2022
Threads
8
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Location
Texas
Thinking I have a pump issue - when low on fuel, turning all the way to the right until wheel won't turn anymore my 80 will stall. Nice and gentle as if I was just turning it off. But if I am fueled up, I cannot replicate the issue. I checked all around my steering column to make sure I wasn't smacking any wires around and we are all clear there. Leads me to believe my fuel pump is ready to be replaced.

That being said - any recommendations on pumps? OEM is probably a safe bet, but was curious if any of y'all have good experiences with aftermarket pumps that have served you well?

Thanks in advance!
 
@Jdub94

The fuel pump on these rigs rarely go out. You should keep looking for other causes.

Check the wiring harness by the egr and make sure it isn't melted or shorting. All kinds of weird things can happen when that gets damaged.

And even if the harness is fine you should still check it out and make sure it isn't getting ruined.

Also check the intake tube after the airfilter and make sure it isn't torn.
 
Does not sound like a fuel pump problem. Pump does not know which way you are steering.
My logic was just thinking maybe my pump is getting weak to a point where if when on low fuel, if I turn hard that the fuel shifts over and the pump isn't pulling hard enough to get enough fuel through the system and so it decides to stall. Again - I have tried and tried again to get this duplicate while on a full tank of gas now and I cannot get it to reoccur. But I will keep checking different wires. I do have a new fusible link coming just for the sake of putting a fresh one on there; but I don't have any starting issues or anything so not sure it's that or not.

If I go around and wiggle every wire I can get my hands on while the truck is running in attempts to also replicate the stall, it doesn't replicate. No sparking, no weird noises, nothin
 
Pull the pump assembly out to see if the pump well has trash in it that may cause the pump screen to get blocked?
 
Pull the pump assembly out to see if the pump well has trash in it that may cause the pump screen to get blocked?
I'll give it a go. I found the Delphi fuel pump and the screen for it on RockAuto for half of what I could have bought it for here at the local store. I should be good for Colorado this weekend, and when I'm back I'll swap the new pump in regardless. I'll just make sure that I have plenty of fuel in the tank at all times the best I can. Plus I'll have a new FL on before leaving.
 
OG beno recommends this one.

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I'll give it a go. I found the Delphi fuel pump and the screen for it on RockAuto for half of what I could have bought it for here at the local store. I should be good for Colorado this weekend, and when I'm back I'll swap the new pump in regardless. I'll just make sure that I have plenty of fuel in the tank at all times the best I can. Plus I'll have a new FL on before leaving.
If you want to prove to yourself @inkpot and @leonard_nemoy are wrong (they're not, BTW), pull the fuel pump out of the tank and look at the location and baffles. This exercise will cost you far less in real money than any deal on a replacement pump. The pump will not react to left/right turns. It does make a difference if you're head up or down on a hill when you are low on fuel, because of where the pickup is, but that's not your stated problem.

If you want to really be sure your pump is failing, pull it and make a continuity check on the wiring on the pump. If it's truly failing, that's where it'll fail. Unless you've been driving around in Africa and haven't strained your gasoline before filling your tank.

My money is on a bad injector (or injectors) connection, under the upper intake manifold. If this is the problem, you should be able to replicate it when the truck is sitting still, by wiggling the harness. Second bet would be another electrical open connection, somewhere else.

Or, you can buy a new pump.
 
If you want to prove to yourself @inkpot and @leonard_nemoy are wrong (they're not, BTW), pull the fuel pump out of the tank and look at the location and baffles. This exercise will cost you far less in real money than any deal on a replacement pump. The pump will not react to left/right turns. It does make a difference if you're head up or down on a hill when you are low on fuel, because of where the pickup is, but that's not your stated problem.

If you want to really be sure your pump is failing, pull it and make a continuity check on the wiring on the pump. If it's truly failing, that's where it'll fail. Unless you've been driving around in Africa and haven't strained your gasoline before filling your tank.

My money is on a bad injector (or injectors) connection, under the upper intake manifold. If this is the problem, you should be able to replicate it when the truck is sitting still, by wiggling the harness. Second bet would be another electrical open connection, somewhere else.

Or, you can buy a new pump.
I wiggled those lines while it was running and nothing happened. Like I stated, while the vehicle was running I literally wiggled around every wire I could get my hands on and the stall did not replicate.
 
I wiggled those lines while it was running and nothing happened. Like I stated, while the vehicle was running I literally wiggled around every wire I could get my hands on and the stall did not replicate.
What can I say? Wiggle harder.
 
What actually happens; does the engine lose power, sputter, shudder, then die (or not), or does it just shut off immediately??

Is the turn a sharp turn at speed, vehicle leaning significantly to one side??

Does it always start right back up as soon as you've completed the turn?

Any recent work on the engine, electronics, interior, near wiring??

Any water crossings, water leaks into the cabin (recent windshield replacement)?

Do you have an Alarm system installed,, active??

Does this happen on a cold engine or only after the engine reaches operating temperature?

Some light reading might help:

Starting Trouble - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/starting-trouble.287435/#post-4509848


First time my 80 has let me down/towed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/first-time-my-80-has-let-me-down-towed.998195/#post-11095562


RTH: truck died while coasting to a light - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rth-truck-died-while-coasting-to-a-light.253473/#post-3902439


 
What actually happens; does the engine lose power, sputter, shudder, then die (or not), or does it just shut off immediately??

Is the turn a sharp turn at speed, vehicle leaning significantly to one side??

Does it always start right back up as soon as you've completed the turn?

Any recent work on the engine, electronics, interior, near wiring??

Any water crossings, water leaks into the cabin (recent windshield replacement)?

Do you have an Alarm system installed,, active??

Does this happen on a cold engine or only after the engine reaches operating temperature?

Some light reading might help:

Starting Trouble - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/starting-trouble.287435/#post-4509848


First time my 80 has let me down/towed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/first-time-my-80-has-let-me-down-towed.998195/#post-11095562


RTH: truck died while coasting to a light - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rth-truck-died-while-coasting-to-a-light.253473/#post-3902439


Just gently loses power. No noise nothing violent. Almost don't notice it turns off until the steering is getting stiffer. Like a legit stall.

Both times it happened when I turned all the way to the right until wheel couldn't turn anymore while going under 10mph. Starts right back up if I turn key off and then back on.

No recent engine work. Wiring all seems to be fine. No frays or crap ends or pigtails anywhere.

No water crossings, water leaks, or w/s replacement

No Alarm system active

Both times happened after engine had been running at least 5 min.

Still have not been able to replicate with a full tank of gas.
 
excessive engine load due to power steering overload causes stall? maybe a blocked pressure bypass valve or over tightened worm gear? (just spit ballin' here)
 
excessive engine load due to power steering overload causes stall? maybe a blocked pressure bypass valve or over tightened worm gear? (just spit ballin' here)
I did have a friend of mine mention that it could be due to something within power steering. Do you have any resources I could look at to check those two things you've mentioned?
 
How does the engine idle and at what rpm?

Do the symptoms occur at 15mph, 20, 30+, or only at 10mph or less?

Do the symptoms occur if the wheel is not turned quite so much, all other
variables the same??

Any changes in engine performance since the symptoms began?

Plugs, plug wires, air filter, dizzy cap and rotor, breather, PCV hose, and air intake hoses all good/newish (no air/vacuum leaks)? Any major valve cover (oil) leaks?
 
How does the engine idle and at what rpm?

Do the symptoms occur at 15mph, 20, 30+, or only at 10mph or less?

Do the symptoms occur if the wheel is not turned quite so much, all other
variables the same??

Any changes in engine performance since the symptoms began?

Plugs, plug wires, air filter, dizzy cap and rotor, breather, PCV hose, and air intake hoses all good/newish (no air/vacuum leaks)? Any major valve cover (oil) leaks?
Idle is fine. Proper RPMs of right under 1k

Only at 10mph or less but have been trying to replicate at a range of speeds that I can safely turn that tightly.

Not that I am aware of. Both times I distinctly remember the wheel kinda "jamming" to its end point. Nothing out of the ordinary, I just felt it hit the limit.

Nope performs the same!

From what I can tell everything is kosher. Filter is fine just had it checked, had new oil change done recently, everything is tight in the bay
 
I did have a friend of mine mention that it could be due to something within power steering. Do you have any resources I could look at to check those two things you've mentioned?
No but there are companies like Red-Head who specialize in rebuilding steering boxes that might be useful to talk to. I know from overtightening my sector shaft that your pump can seem to fight the box to steer. Also low speed steering does require more power, hence the "idle-up" solenoids on 100-Series cruisers.
 
No but there are companies like Red-Head who specialize in rebuilding steering boxes that might be useful to talk to. I know from overtightening my sector shaft that your pump can seem to fight the box to steer. Also low speed steering does require more power, hence the "idle-up" solenoids on 100-Series cruisers.
Good knowledge to know! Thank you
 
When the engine dies, after turning the steering wheel fully to the right, do you straighten the wheels prior to starting, or can you restart the engine with the wheels turned fully to the right? Can you restart the engine while the truck is moving (by shifting into neutral) , or do you have to stop?

I'm asking because if the problem is wiring related, and if the right turn is affecting the wiring, you should not be able to restart the engine with the wheels all the way to the right, if the engine died when they were that way. Obviously, you want to test this in a flat, empty parking lot, or at least an empty road.
 
Similar issue on my 60 after switching to fuel injection was due to intake tube placement within the tank along with lack of baffles. Only happened on half tank or less on a turn to the right at a low enough speed that the fuel actually shifts to the left. So maybe tube blockage? Does not seem logical that the pump would be fine unless the tank has gone down -
FWIW.
 

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