Aftermarket Amp to factory head unit (1 Viewer)

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So I currently have a Tesla unit which I hate. Can’t see it for s*** durning the day and just buggy for wireless CarPlay. I’m looking to go back to the factory nav unit and go with a Bluetooth kit to call it good. My question is, with an aftermarket analog amp with RCA cable inputs, how do I connect those to the factory head unit?
Possible?
 

suprarx7nut

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I don't expect that will work out well, but I haven't tried it myself. Why not use the OEM amp if you're using the OEM head unit?

The OEM head unit signals do NOT use chassis ground as the ground of the audio signals. I believe this causes problems when using aftermarket amps, where the ground for chassis is expected to be the only ground across all signals and power.
 
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I don't expect that will work out well, but I haven't tried it myself. Why not use the OEM amp if you're using the OEM head unit?

The OEM head unit signals do NOT use chassis ground as the ground of the audio signals. I believe this causes problems when using aftermarket amps, where the ground for chassis is expected to be the only ground across all signals and power.
The PO removed the factory amp and cut the pigtails so I’m stuck with an aftermarket AMP.
 
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My buddy has this in his Tacoma and said it should work but I’m not sure. I’m sure it would work but confused on what wires would be the inputs from the factory stereo. LC8I
 
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Alright a quick update. I ordered a LC2i, 2x RCA Ys and the bluetooth adapter from US Spec. The goal will be to cut and splice the 4 audio output wires and run them to the LC2i then from there send that signal to the aftermarket amp. I’m hopeful that this will all work so I can bid the Tesla radio fair well. I am aware I’ll loose my ability to balance and fade the audio but as long as I get sound I’m happy.
 
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Alright a quick update. I ordered a LC2i, 2x RCA Ys and the bluetooth adapter from US Spec. The goal will be to cut and splice the 4 audio output wires and run them to the LC2i then from there send that signal to the aftermarket amp. I’m hopeful that this will all work so I can bid the Tesla radio fair well. I am aware I’ll loose my ability to balance and fade the audio but as long as I get sound I’m happy.

Can you post up how you do this that would help many of us.
 

ramangain

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Alright a quick update. I ordered a LC2i, 2x RCA Ys and the bluetooth adapter from US Spec. The goal will be to cut and splice the 4 audio output wires and run them to the LC2i then from there send that signal to the aftermarket amp. I’m hopeful that this will all work so I can bid the Tesla radio fair well. I am aware I’ll loose my ability to balance and fade the audio but as long as I get sound I’m happy.
I'm just curious if you can retain volume control
 
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Well today was a huge slight success. I reinstalled the factory nav unit/radio, installed the LC2i, the US Spec Bluetooth adapter and have sound! “Everything” works great but there are some big downsides. Like mentioned before I lost the ability to control volume. Being I will stream music from my phone 99% of the time I will use my phones volume buttons to control volume, I have tested it and it works great. The radio will have to be at the same volume unless I adjust it on the LC2 which is under the seat. The other downsides are not being able to adjust the balance or fader via the head unit but the aftermarket amp and LC2i can do that.

while digging more into this I found a second amp installed by the PO that was setup to control the sub so I ordered a few wires to hook that back up and get all my speakers working.

Nevertheless I’m happy to have the factory setup back in and working. I installed the Owl ram mount so once I get an iPad mini I will use that to run Gaia and everything else the Tesla could do.
If anything needs a Tesla unit holla at your boy 😂

At the end of the day definitely keep your factory amp unless it shi ts the bed and you can’t source another factory amp. If you can’t source another factory amp and plan to retain your factory head unit this is one other option that “works”. Not ideal but better then $2000+ to convert to the older LC and going with a double din.

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Well today was a huge slight success. I reinstalled the factory nav unit/radio, installed the LC2i, the US Spec Bluetooth adapter and have sound! “Everything” works great but there are some big downsides. Like mentioned before I lost the ability to control volume. Being I will stream music from my phone 99% of the time I will use my phones volume buttons to control volume, I have tested it and it works great. The radio will have to be at the same volume unless I adjust it on the LC2 which is under the seat. The other downsides are not being able to adjust the balance or fader via the head unit but the aftermarket amp and LC2i can do that.

while digging more into this I found a second amp installed by the PO that was setup to control the sub so I ordered a few wires to hook that back up and get all my speakers working.

Nevertheless I’m happy to have the factory setup back in and working. I installed the Owl ram mount so once I get an iPad mini I will use that to run Gaia and everything else the Tesla could do.
If anything needs a Tesla unit holla at your boy 😂

At the end of the day definitely keep your factory amp unless it shi ts the bed and you can’t source another factory amp. If you can’t source another factory amp and plan to retain your factory head unit this is one other option that “works”. Not ideal but better then $2000+ to convert to the older LC and going with a double din.

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Make sure you disconnect the ML listening mic on your headliner (it’s the plastic thingy on the middle). ML uses that to listen and self adjust specially removes bass frequencies. Your system will not sound right specially when you add a real sub. Your system will produce bass then ML will remove it if the mic is active.
 
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Make sure you disconnect the ML listening mic on your headliner (it’s the plastic thingy on the middle). ML uses that to listen and self adjust specially removes bass frequencies. Your system will not sound right specially when you add a real sub. Your system will produce bass then ML will remove it if the mic is active.

did not know that, just simply unplug that mic? Gotta find that
 

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