After de-smog: high idle, fuel leak (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 15, 2014
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Location
Tahlequah, Oklahoma
My 1992 fj80 started idling very rough whenever in gear, to the point where I thought it was constantly going to stall when stopped at the stoplight. Figured I had a vacuum leak, and sure enough the pipe near the check valve of the air manifold was rusted and snapped in two. I pulled air pump, EGR and all their associated parts following @Spook50's write up and others like @LS1FJ40 (still have old cats and O2's though).

Now it's idling extremely high - around 1800/1900 rpm in neutral, and still sounding kind of rough. I think I may have accidentally adjusted the stop nut on the throttle cable when putting that back on - Would that have that sort of effect?

I didn't actually run it long enough for it to warm up, because I noticed I was leaking fuel from the hard line that goes from the intake manifold above the EGR block off plate to somewhere below that. I disconnected that to pop the manifold off to get at the air injectors. I have hunted through the FSM without luck to find the torque specs. The line seems in tact and it's only leaking from the connection I took apart and put back together. So I'm hoping once I torque it down to FSM specs that leak will go away.

Does anyone know what this is called, AND how much to torque this bolt down? (Sorry for the crappy iPad photo). Also any other ideas as to why it's idling so high, or should it go good once it warms up? Spook talked about the ECU having to "learn" the new setup, so hopefully I'm just worrying over nothing regarding that high idle?
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Very common to have high idle after disconnecting power to the ECU. Usually takes 10-15 minutes of driving to relearn.
 
Very common to have high idle after disconnecting power to the ECU. Usually takes 10-15 minutes of driving to relearn.

Thanks for the reassurance. Now once I get that fuel line bolt appropriately torqued so I'm not leaking fuel I can drive it long enough to see that happen. Thanks for the help!
 
It sometimes takes a couple drivings of 10-15 minutes. There isn't a set time. I usually see it change after the first driving. Let it get up to temp.
 
Guess I just needed a break from the FSM, because I immediately found it this morning - the mystery part was the cold start injector pipe, and its "gaskets" are basically 2 brass tabs that go on either side of the injector pipe/line (one between the bolt and fitting and the other between the fitting and the fuel rail), at 14 ft-lbs, if anyone else is like me - total noob who's learning as he goes and gets lost easily.

It's still lugging when stopped and at highway speeds, but not as bad as it was. So I guess it's onto new plugs and O2 sensors since those are the quickest/easiest. I have new oem plug wires and dizzy cap too. If it's still lugging, then I'll see about cleaning the throttle body. Any other ideas? Valve adjustment, timing, etc?
 

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