ADVICE: Zero to limited cutting/modifying for speakers - FzJ80 Speaker Thread (Oct 2022) (2 Viewers)

[DirtyPepper]

Hey everyone!

So, my shop is chasing an electrical issue on my rig (1997) and they've narrowed the problem down...and in fixing the issue, the dash has to come apart so, I've decided to (ONE) get the Locking Center Diff button installed and (TWO), update the stereo.

I've been gifted a Kenwood (DDX418) Double Din Bluetooth deck...

BUT...

In looking at all the forum postings there are A LOT of notations on speakers...but nothing recent without deep diving into ALL the posts. So, I wanted to open up a new one because I really prefer not to cut anything, if possible...new holes are fine though.


I'm looking to keep the factory grills (if possible) but I'm seeing in a lot of forums that 6.5" speakers can fit the front (provided the depth doesn't break 1.85") and the rear doors should be 4" but I've also seen notes where 6.5" can fit (without any cutting).


I'm running the Kenwood deck (Although slightly outdated, it is NIB - DDX418 model - 4 channel 50 watts per channel per specs) and an older alpine 4 channel 150 watt amp that the PO left in the rig that's been verified as working; an 8' shallow mount (PYLE) 800 sub will go where the factory sub was/is located

Pioneer and Kenwood are good speakers and what I'm leaning to since they are fairly inexpensive...I've looked at PYLE also and I'm a huge fan of JBL. Some people have noted now discontinued Pioneer speakers or Sony XPLOD.


So, help and thoughts, opinions, and advice? What are you running that had zero to limited cutting/modifying for speakers?



Thanks in advance!

 

[Kernal]

What were the original issues/symptom?


What then did the shop tell you was the problem that requires them to pull the dash apart???

 

[DirtyPepper]

What were the original issues/symptom?


What then did the shop tell you was the problem that requires them to pull the dash apart???

I redid the entire cooling system at the end of August, replacing the radiator, hoses, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, engine flush, etc., and for a few days after, the AC worked without any issue. Then it started taking longer to kick in, but it would...then it would begin to slowly get warmer (AC, not engine) until no more cold air was blowing. This continued for a few days until it just wouldn't blow cold at all. So, thinking the refrigerant was too low, I picked up a can of DIY refrigerant to add. I placed the hose on the correct tube and the dial told me it was FULL, so, I didn't add any and decided to call the Land Cruiser specific shop I go to to check it because it seemed like the AC clutch wasn't engaging.

Fast forward a month (that's when they could get me in), they evacuated the refrigerant and checked for water residue...nothing out of place. The compressor was working fine, no leaks and no breaks in the seals. Everything indicated that it should be working...they even tripped the clutch to go and verified there are no bubbles in the viewing window(?)

While waiting I was texting a buddy of mine who assisted with the cooling system update and he remembered there was "an electrical plug" on the side of the block that was not connected so he "plugged it back in" to the "only available plug near it".

I sighed at this point and told the tech about hat i was told.
But in telling this to the tech, because the AC had worked for a handful of days after, this plug being the problem was ruled out.

The shop has replaced the ac "switch" under the hood (near the battery - for reference, I have a '97 with a single battery) and pulled a bunch of unneeded wiring out that the PO had installed with a janky stereo system. We found a relay that was a little more worn than it should have been but it didn't seem to be the problem.

The shop believes it might be a different relay of some kind (if I am understanding correctly), but the day ended so I had to reschedule another time (last Friday) to come in with another tech who had a little more experience with this type of issue. When I came back, we went over everything to give him the run down of all the symptoms and what the previous appointment entailed - everything is technically working as it should but there seems to be an electrical signal not making it's way to tell it to "get cold" - the heat works fine though...he turned the AC on at the control panel in the cab and let it run for a while, I assume to see if there was a power draw someplace...and then something blew out - one of the most horrible electrical burning smells then followed...

If I'm understanding correctly, the shop thinks there might be something going to ground, a surge, OR the AC control panel in the cab just decided to go out after 25 years, thus requiring the dash to come apart...which I'm OK with, so long as the issue gets resolved, PLUS it give me a chance to get the Center Diff Lock button installed AND update the head unit.

I've sourced a new/used working panel from @Alex79 and just waiting on its arrival to the shop.

In reading multiple MUD posts, I found this thread: 1993 FZJ80 - AC electrical issue & not working (Compressor in good condition & system not leaking) but there is a lot of electrical notations that I'm unfamiliar with. I also found another thread about intermittent AC issues, and a post about the Engine Temp AC cut-off switch (relating to the engine hitting 227 degrees F and cutting the AC) but I can't find that post for some reason. If I remember correctly, this switch tells the computer that the engine is too hot (227 degrees F) and to cut the AC...so I thought MAYBE that switch was bad and it just thinks the engine is hot when my ODB2 reader tells me I'm sitting pretty at 179 F at 65 mph sustained for 60+ min and around 181 F in stop and go traffic.


So, that's that.
I'm at a loss...I'm going back to the shop as soon as the ordered parts arrive, either this Friday or next. Right now, the fuse for the AC is pulled. the Cruiser is driveable, but she's sitting since she's not my DD.

The shop also thinks this might also be part and parcel of my OTHER electrical issues which could stem from the PO and their janky install of a stereo that suspiciously looks like a big box store didn't know what they were doing with a Land Cruiser, or, a "friend" who "knows" how to install a stereo.:

• Sunroof not opening (not even a sound of an attempt when depressing the button)
• Cigarette port not working
• Light in ashtray not working
• All windows not working
• Clock not working
• Stereo not working
• Rear dome light not working (but middle and front map light DO work)
• Antenna not working
• Right side instrument panel lights not working (But left side of panel lights up)
• Side mirror controls do not work
• Green ring around ignition stays on ALL THE TIME and I know it shouldn't

And yes, all the fuses have been checked - nothing wrong there.

• Door locks work - except the rear hatch but I'm unsure if that's electrical(?)
• Door lights work
• Electrical seats move (forward, up, down, reclining, and lumbar, but won't move BACK - on both, but that could be a bad worm drive)
• All gauges work - verified against ODB2 reader
• And until recently, AC worked (Heater works fine, so does the defroster)

I go to a Land Cruiser specific shop so I have complete faith in them...I'm just frustrated at the previous owner more than anything else. Had I known what he did when I bought it, I would have given less than the $2,300 we agreed on to offset the electrical chasing, haha!

 

[Fast Eddy]

It seems to me that leaving that 'new' stereo on the bench while you sort out the other issues would be advised.

Yes, the rear hatch has an electric lock. Check the 3 leads of the fusible link and see if you have power at the input side of all the fuses for the circuits that don't work.

 

[MUDZLLA]

There's a recent writeup on some infinity speakers for the front. I went that route and am happy. you will need to use the supplied grill and spacers. the spacer will need to be dremelled to fit.

 

[12bit]

The Pioneer TS-G650 6.5" (front doors) & Pioneer TS-G400 4" (rear doors) are a near perfect fit with only minor modification to the rear door plastic speaker mounts.

 

[DirtyPepper]

The Pioneer TS-G650 6.5" (front doors) & Pioneer TS-G400 4" (rear doors) are a near perfect fit with only minor modification to the rear door plastic speaker mounts.

Awesome, thanks!

How do they sound?

 

[12bit]

Awesome, thanks!

How do they sound?

They are pretty inexpensive speakers, but I think they sound pretty good. I am using the factory head unit and have a small powered infinity sub in the back.

 

[DirtyPepper]

They are pretty inexpensive speakers, but I think they sound pretty good. I am using the factory head unit and have a small powered infinity sub in the back.

I'm going to verify what the PO might have put in for speakers, just to make sure they ran 4" in the back...from thee I'll probably add what you (and others have stated n different threads) have noted for speakers. I'm looking at the 8" PYLE (shallow mount) sub to replace the factory sub - I have a working Alpine 150 watt, 4 channel amp.

Nothing major - it won't kick like my Avalon unless I want to spend some extra money...Imostly just want to have a bit of kick and not have to depend on my earbuds!

 

[Malleus]

For my money, it's

Get 'em while you still can.

 

[Malleus]

It seems even the car stereo gods (Crutchfield) have given up on car stereo.

 

[Sisco Kid]

For my money, it's
View attachment 3139109

Get 'em while you still can.

Same, installed these 3 years ago, nice fit, good mid and high range, bass needs additional sub in my opinion.

 

[Mjones]

Hey everyone!

So, my shop is chasing an electrical issue on my rig (1997) and they've narrowed the problem down...and in fixing the issue, the dash has to come apart so, I've decided to (ONE) get the Locking Center Diff button installed and (TWO), update the stereo.

I've been gifted a Kenwood (DDX418) Double Din Bluetooth deck...

BUT...

In looking at all the forum postings there are A LOT of notations on speakers...but nothing recent without deep diving into ALL the posts. So, I wanted to open up a new one because I really prefer not to cut anything, if possible...new holes are fine though.


I'm looking to keep the factory grills (if possible) but I'm seeing in a lot of forums that 6.5" speakers can fit the front (provided the depth doesn't break 1.85") and the rear doors should be 4" but I've also seen notes where 6.5" can fit (without any cutting).


I'm running the Kenwood deck (Although slightly outdated, it is NIB - DDX418 model - 4 channel 50 watts per channel per specs) and an older alpine 4 channel 150 watt amp that the PO left in the rig that's been verified as working; an 8' shallow mount (PYLE) 800 sub will go where the factory sub was/is located

Pioneer and Kenwood are good speakers and what I'm leaning to since they are fairly inexpensive...I've looked at PYLE also and I'm a huge fan of JBL. Some people have noted now discontinued Pioneer speakers or Sony XPLOD.


So, help and thoughts, opinions, and advice? What are you running that had zero to limited cutting/modifying for speakers?



Thanks in advance!

I started to look into Morel Nano line but on the pricey side. Their (lack of) magnet depth issue is solved easily with this design.
Search for Morel Virtus Nano Carbon if they are still available