Advice- replaced seals <3K miles ago, change to Mobile 1 now seeing seep (1 Viewer)

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Front seal and oil pan gasket seals were replaced in 9/2016 with 110K miles. Since then driven <3000K miles but a daily driver. After acquisition in March of 2020- I moved to Mobile 1 high mileage syn. oil and seeing more of seep in front pully crank area and rear (oil pan). nothing bad but it is more than before

Is it common in high humidity areas (TX/NOLA) that these seals would need to be replaced this quickly or is it directly impacted by changing to Mobile 1 vs the PO utilized standard 5w/30w havoline?

Note- no skills nor space to wrench this repair, so this is a 6 hr job at $125 per hour for both to be replaced- roughly $900, Should I replace seals again or live with the fact that I got some seepage, until I need to address something else down the road?

thx
 

desmocruiser

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Just a personal preference, I wouldn’t run synthetic oil, especially after it has been raised on conventional.

I would immediately return to conventional and see what happens, maybe it will slow the leak.
 

BGarcia88FJ62

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Not too many folks have luck being leak free running synthetic oil in a 2F, it seems to find it's way out of the motor.
Theirs really no need for it in a 2F. I've been running 15W 40 Diesel Oil and NAPA Gold oil Filters for decades.
Try not to over think it these aren't high performance engines.
:beer: ✌
 

desmocruiser

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/\ /\ this is all good advice and consistent with what I have always read and believed with a 2F.

Finding conventional oil is a bit tougher these days, but nothing to be gained with Synthetic, I even think anything with too much detergent etc. isn‘t good for them.

I ran Valvoline VR1 with high zinc for 2-3 oil changes after a 2F rebuild using all OEM parts 10or so years ago.

Remember the 2F is a descendent of a 1950’s designed GM in-line 6, simple and well simple!
 
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Thanks.. note I have an 89 FJ62 so it has a 3FE

going to change out oil back to conventional today and see what type of seepage I get over the weekend.

the thought of having to replace both these seals so quickly seems uncommon but this is my first rig and experience with these
 

OSS

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All the High Mileage motor oils are designed with additives to swell gaskets and seals to help minimize leaks. The oil itself isn't magical for an older engine. When new gaskets and seals are replaced, a High Mileage motor oil is no longer needed.
Synthetic oils will always weep past gaskets and seals easier. But So What.
The synthetic motor oils are superior to conventional Dino oil and while they may weep oil more, they protect better.

I used synthetic 5W-50 motor oil in my 2F for 27 years exclusively. 240,000 miles. While the gaskets did weep a bit, I got better mileage, better starting, noticeably increased power , cooler running temps and a smoother running engine. While it does cost more per quart, the fuel savings made up for it, so in end, along with all the benefits mentioned above , it was the obvious best choice.
Mobil 10W-40 high mileage oil is really good stuff. Perfect match for the cruiser engine (if you don't mind a few weeps).
 

MoaByte

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I but that purple stuff in my rear differential. Two weeks later my pinion seal started leaking. I replaced the seal and found more metal on the magnet than the old 90 weight had. I put 90 weight back in and problem solved.
 
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**UPdate**
changed oil..back to conventional. power washed underneath and wiped down- clean. Drove normal daily commute- 7 miles. Underneath check points every hour and after and again very small presence of an oil weep at the same two spots- nothing forming as a drip but you can take a clean cloth around these two points- front crank/harmonic balancer and rear of oil pan/transfer case housing and wipe up new clean oil.

Called the shop that did the work in 2016 (high end Import refurb- recondition shop in McAllen,TX)- stated "not uncommon after 4 yrs- TX and NOLA hot weather and humidity to begin to see weeping" "these are cork gaskets, we did a complete engine seal/gasket kit overhaul in the work we did and it is 32 yr old engine technology, not like the engines today"
told me not an issue from their perspective and do nothing until it forms a leak which could be never.

Called my local Toyota shop that is recommended here on MUD- stated agree it is not a problem, however in their opinion.... "listen, if it was done correctly there should be ZERO weep..after less than 3K miles regardless if it was done 4 yrs ago" stated maybe they did not use OEM seals/gaskets- we have seen this before. stated that it is very tricky? they see incorrect DIY jobs all the time?

My takeaways- it is really not a problem- unless it develops into a leak and impacting the oil capacity b/w normal 3K or in my case 6 month intervals. Just cant help to want to have it redone by TOYOTA and test their theory that it was possibly done with aftermarket seals/gaskets and or incorrectly?

thoughts?
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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**UPdate**
changed oil..back to conventional. power washed underneath and wiped down- clean. Drove normal daily commute- 7 miles. Underneath check points every hour and after and again very small presence of an oil weep at the same two spots- nothing forming as a drip but you can take a clean cloth around these two points- front crank/harmonic balancer and rear of oil pan/transfer case housing and wipe up new clean oil.

Called the shop that did the work in 2016 (high end Import refurb- recondition shop in McAllen,TX)- stated "not uncommon after 4 yrs- TX and NOLA hot weather and humidity to begin to see weeping" "these are cork gaskets, we did a complete engine seal/gasket kit overhaul in the work we did and it is 32 yr old engine technology, not like the engines today"
told me not an issue from their perspective and do nothing until it forms a leak which could be never.

Called my local Toyota shop that is recommended here on MUD- stated agree it is not a problem, however in their opinion.... "listen, if it was done correctly there should be ZERO weep..after less than 3K miles regardless if it was done 4 yrs ago" stated maybe they did not use OEM seals/gaskets- we have seen this before. stated that it is very tricky? they see incorrect DIY jobs all the time?

My takeaways- it is really not a problem- unless it develops into a leak and impacting the oil capacity b/w normal 3K or in my case 6 month intervals. Just cant help to want to have it redone by TOYOTA and test their theory that it was possibly done with aftermarket seals/gaskets and or incorrectly?

thoughts?
Personally it’s all about the tech and how they did it. Any garage will nail another for poor work. Maybe just redo it yourself. As I’m rebuilding my 2F myself I often have to remind myself it is just a tractor engine.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Well, I also don’t think it’s a problem, but I guarantee you if you have it done with OEM Toyota parts and 4 years later it’s weeping again, they’ll tell you to pound sand. 12/12 warranty.
Seriously. Give me a break. 4 years is a good ride for a 30+ year old truck to not leak. That parts guy was simply kissing ass.
 

MoaByte

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I'd rather blame myself for not doing it right the first time then to pay out the ass for someone else to practice on my rig. You don't always get what you pay for. At least when I do it wrong I learn. But sometimes you just can't do it yourself. No matter how good your mechanic is, they make mistakes. I don't have a mechanic, but I have some stories of my mistakes and a tool collection that's hard to organize.

I would do the same as you, be disappointed too. Maybe take my torque wrench out and just see. The new fangled oils often have better surface-tention modifiers that work great for lubrication but for the same reason creep through seals. Maybe you just need to drive through some of that fine silt like you fine near desert rivers. 😉
 
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econdition shop in McAllen,TX)- stated "not uncommon after 4 yrs- TX and NOLA hot weather and humidity to begin to see weeping" "these are cork gaskets
I agree that cork gaskets are generally inferior to other types. However I cannot comprehend how hot, humid ambient conditions could degrade either the cork particles or the rubber binder that holds it together.
 

HemiAlex

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326,000 miles on my 2F. Side cover, valve cover gasket and rear main seal are new-ish.

I run Mobil 1 15w50 high zinc synthetic and aside from a small front main seal leak (that I’ll never fix) , nothing started leaking more going from conventional Diesel engine oil to the synthetic. I’ve run 20,000 miles of changes in this mobil 1. I like it.

Consumption stayed the same. I’m running 5-7,000 mile oil change intervals.

It’s not the oil, it’s the seal. Even oem replacement parts can be imperfect.
 

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