Advice on alignment, do I go back or go to a new place? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 2, 2018
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12
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437
Location
Utah
I’ll be as brief as possible. I put a new steering rack in, SPC uppers, total front end rebuild. Rack was centered on threads on tie rod ends. Steering wheel was probably 360 off from center, clock spring broke of course.

OME lift installed, heavy rears but no bumper yet, my 4Runner sagged when loaded for a trip so I went heavy this time. Front was at maybe 20 3/4 inches hub to fender. Enough to ensure 2.5 inches of droop.

Took it to a shop in Layton Utah specializing in off road stuff. I get a call a couple hours later from the tech, saying I could raise the front quite a bit. Asked what my plans for the future were. I said a bumper, he said I could go up quite a bit. I work graves, I was tired, I figured he must know what he’s talking about, it’s a big shop, ok man, do another half inch.

Pick up the car, they tell me the ball joints were 180 degrees off. So the alignment was now $160. I bring my SPC instructions in with me, and a photo of the install prior to taking it to them. The tech tells me the SPC instructions are basically crap, and although I installed per the instructions, they install them opposite. They are telling me they install logo out, not logo in like SPC says. Tech then says he didn’t flip them, so the guy at the counter apologizes and removes the extra $80 charge. Ok.

I drive it home, steering is wandering, and on a bump I feel the wheels skip. Yeah, knew instantly he raised it too much. At the shop they told me the guy who did the alignment has and LX and knows cruisers. Uhhh, I’m doubtful now. So I’m a little pissed, wheel isn’t straight, but I suck it up. Droop is under 1.75 inches.

The next day I start putting all my brackets and bumper back on and lower it a bit to get my droop back. Then I notice one tie rod is screwed down to the end of the threads, and the other is out as far as it could go probably. I get more turns to the right, and it over turns actually. Buries the steering stop.

Well, now I know the rack wasn’t centered when I took it to them. Now I wonder why they would align it like that, with the rack obviously not centered. My fault for bringing it to them not centered and with a jenky wheel of course.

So I start heading to another shop, just a chain one that does alignments. I call the first shop on my way and explain the situation. The guy at the counter this time tells me that he’s not surprised it’s wandering and the wheel isnt straight. Basically says they shouldn’t have given me the car that way, the tech should have said something. Offers to give me a half price alignment and do the rack centering for shop time. I tell them if they had told me the day before that the rack was all jacked up, I would have told them just fix it and charge me. He says he will look into it and call me back.

Calls back a few minutes later and says they want to make it right and will do a free alignment and center the rack for shop time. I think that sounds ok and make an appointment two days out.

I’ve got to thinking about it, and it kind of rubs me wrong that they raised it too high, sent me on my way with a crappy alignment, tried to charge me for work that wasn’t even done (miscommunication?...).

Maybe they saw that my ABS sensor wire was broken (I’ve already fixed it) and sway bars were off (end links are coming in the mail tomorrow) and figured I half assed it, but surely the cleaned and painted LCAs, fresh ball joints and clean and painted torsion bar bracket must have indicated I give a crap.

Should I go back to the local off road shop or center the rack myself and go to the national chain guys?
 
When someone I'm paying screws something up the first time, I give them one chance to fix it. If they don't get it on the second try, I go somewhere else. I figure it's a decent line in the sand to give them a chance to make it right, but not get strung along.

I work in Layton so I have some guesses about where you may have gone, but if that shop doesn't work out maybe consider trekking down to SLC to go to Russ's. They're mostly about low/fast cars but I don't think a 100 would be a challenge for them.
 
The fault here seems split. Unless you specifically asked the shop to fix your install issues, they should charge more than estimated. On the other hand, no shop should let a vehicle out of their care in poor shape.

If I was in your shoes, I would center the rack and set the torsion bars myself. Then take it back and have them perform the alignment.
 
Yeah, I totally get it if the install was jacked and I didn’t say to fix it. The only problem I have with that was asking for the steering wheel to be centered and they did that pretty much at any cost. The guy at the counter said they never should have sent me out the door with the tie rods maxed like that. He said it could case wandering having them maxed like that. So I feel like by their own admission they should have told me the rack was off and couldn’t be properly aligned.

I also called SPC and told them the shop said their instructions are wrong. SPC sent me to their alignment tech and said the instructions are accurate, the land cruiser requires the ball joint oriented differently for proper alignment. Also said turning them was a simple loosen and jack up and rotate then tighten process. Something the shop was going to charge me $80 for.

I’m at a new shop now having it looked at. We will see what the initial reading is and go from there. From a totality of the circumstances standpoint, there are too many issues for me to feel comfortable paying them to work on it more.

1. Over adjusted torsion bars, wheels skipped
2. Crazy tie rod adjustment
3. Tried to charge me for work not done
4. Basically said SPC doesn’t know how to install their own product.
 
The chain shop can align it and fix the rack and wheel for the same price the original shop was going to charge me to take it back. They said they were giving me a deal to fix it by not charging me again for the alignment. Their labor was an hour to fix the rack, chain store only half hour.

Never going back to the first place.
 
The chain shop can align it and fix the rack and wheel for the same price the original shop was going to charge me to take it back. They said they were giving me a deal to fix it by not charging me again for the alignment. Their labor was an hour to fix the rack, chain store only half hour.

Never going back to the first place.


Do you have VGRS?
 
It's a little bit of a drive down—but I've never gone wrong at State Automotive in Murray. Always 10-20 cruisers outside of varying heritage, and the owners have 100s.

I did the same thing—replaced all the front end myself, and let Dustin sort out the LX at the shop. First try perfect.
 
I believe I do, 2005 LC. No nights are on though.

I wonder if this may be related to the wheel not staying straight? It’s center seems to vary after I make a turn.
 
They let the steering wheel dictate the tie rod ends when it should be the other way around. The rack needs to be centered first and foremost. Then the tie rods will fall into place if they are positioned to spec. With VGRS, the steering wheel is most likely not going to be centered. So, once the alignment is in spec, the techs need to go into the system and reset the VGRS and this will allow them to center the steering wheel. The computer needs to mate the center of the steering wheel with the position of the gears inside the VGRS system. This is why it will wander and do strange stuff. It is trying to calculate the proper gear ratio with an uneven rack.

Resetting the VGRS involves unlocking the steering wheel from the rack in its current off-center position, moving it to center, and then locking it into position. Then, the system will calibrate the steering ratio with equal length arms lock to lock.
 
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You’re the man. I have a OBD2 dongle from Ross tech for my wife’s VW obsession. I’m going to download tech stream and take a look.

Les schwab centered the rack perfectly. Same turn to lock each direction. The guy knew his stuff and did it in under an hour.
 
So I sent the shop an email detailing everything and asking for a refund for the initial alignment. Got a call from a manager saying he didn’t just want to refund me, he wanted to give me some store credit to show that he doesn’t want to lose a customer. I was impressed with the response.

Just wanted to update this In case anyone knew the shop I was talking about. I probably wasn’t taking my 100 there for anything in the future anyway, but if someone asked me if they would treat a customer right, I’m far more inclined to say yes after the response I received.

And really, I’m not a “let me talk to the manager guy”. I sat on this for almost week before emailing them.
 
Do you have VGRS?
I believe I do, 2005 LC. No nights are on though.

I wonder if this may be related to the wheel not staying straight? It’s center seems to vary after I make a turn.

If I'm not mistaken, VGRS is LX only.

They let the steering wheel dictate the tie rod ends when it should be the other way around. The rack needs to be centered first and foremost. Then the tie rods will fall into place if they are positioned to spec. With VGRS, the steering wheel is most likely not going to be centered. So, once the alignment is in spec, the techs need to go into the system and reset the VGRS and this will allow them to center the steering wheel. The computer needs to mate the center of the steering wheel with the position of the gears inside the VGRS system. This is why it will wander and do strange stuff. It is trying to calculate the proper gear ratio with an uneven rack.

Resetting the VGRS involves unlocking the steering wheel from the rack in its current off-center position, moving it to center, and then locking it into position. Then, the system will calibrate the steering ratio with equal length arms lock to lock.
 

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