Advice needed for rust spot (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Threads
28
Messages
118
Location
Mooresville, NC
I was getting out of my 60 and noticed this spot. I’m a rookie when it comes to rust removal/prevention. Any advice to stop the madness would really be appreciated!!
 
It’d help if I posted a pic

99C9CA10-D409-4232-9276-F55913CBD0DF.jpeg
 
Be glad that's all it is. Remove the door panel & take a look inside the door down in the crevice at the bottom. That's usually the source of the moisture- water dripping down the window and ending up inside the door - puddling in the bottom & rusting the door from the inside out.

If there is rust inside the door at the bottom seam, DONT spray or apply any wet corrosion inhibitor inside the door (Fluid Film, Corrosion-X, HinderRust etc). Self-healing wet corrosion liquids will always stink (for years) and the inside of the car will become contaminated with the stench permanently.
 
there should be some gaps in the weld along the bottom section of the door for drainage if rain gets in thru the top it will escape out the bottom. they can and do get plugged up leaving the moisture inside the door.
 
Be glad that's all it is. Remove the door panel & take a look inside the door down in the crevice at the bottom. That's usually the source of the moisture- water dripping down the window and ending up inside the door - puddling in the bottom & rusting the door from the inside out.

If there is rust inside the door at the bottom seam, DONT spray or apply any wet corrosion inhibitor inside the door (Fluid Film, Corrosion-X, HinderRust etc). Self-healing wet corrosion liquids will always stink (for years) and the inside of the car will become contaminated with the stench permanently.

The insides of the doors on all our cars are covered in fluid film. I shoot it up the drain holes in the door bottoms with a flexible hose with nozzle that’s about 1/8” in diameter. The wife doesn’t like the smell of it, and heartily voiced her opinion when the smell was present, but it doesn’t smell for that long in my experience. Two weeks maybe? The inside of the cars certainly don’t smell either. Short of properly fixing the source of water intrusion, peeling the door skins off, completely removing the rust, repainting and resealing the pinch seams, a product like fluid film (or even transmission fluid or bar and chain oil, etc) is the best option for situations like this in my opinion. Just make sure you don’t clog up the weep holes in the door bottoms.
 
Clean it really, really well, dry it with a heat gun, paint with por 15 metal prep then a few coats of clear por 15. I did a couple spots inside my doors 5-6 years ago and hasn’t worsened a bit.
 
I've been supremely happy with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Undercoating...rd_wg=jcZKg&psc=1&refRID=EDP4DDCDCW2XREY7CQTA

Comes with a short nozzle that is for open areas (all underbody) and then the long hose for closed cavities like doors. You'll want to drill a 1/2" hole with a step bit in the rear facing edge of your door a few inches up from the bottom. Then you put your protective fluid of choice in the gun, hook up your air compressor to the gun, stick the wand in the door and let it rip. It's a great feeling to see the oil dripping out of those weep holes where it will coat the pinch seam in the process.

I like the smell of Fluid Film actually. It can be gotten by the gallon. Being cheap I just literally hosed down my Tacoma with bar and chain oil and can't smell it at all. I have used used gear oil - big mistake. Hate the smell of that stuff. The interior stinks with gear oil.

The small investment in the gun and a little bit of our time will repay itself many times over.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I think I may sand it down and primer it to stop the rust. Then try some of the rust preventer on the one door to test the smell prior to applying to the rest.

Thanks again for the input!
 
Clean it really, really well, dry it with a heat gun, paint with por 15 metal prep then a few coats of clear por 15. I did a couple spots inside my doors 5-6 years ago and hasn’t worsened a bit.
I’ve never used this product but seems pretty straight forward. Only question I had is if you tried painting after the work?
 
I sprayed the inside bottoms of all my doors with white Lithium grease (the kind you spray on door hinges and hood latches) and it stunk for a day or two as the solvent evaporated, but really no longer smells like grease or solvent in the truck.

Pretty much any petroleum product will have a smell of some kind. What you really want to avoid are greases with a lot of sulfur additives (like gear oil and some axle greases) that smell pretty ripe before you apply them. You want a runny grease (in my opinion) that will creep into the rusty seams and then stay there. Anything entombed in grease will not rust.
 
The best thing I've used for rust removal is Evaporust. It selectively binds to iron oxide essentially removing the rust and keeping it in solution. It's water soluble and doesn't smell. Downside is that you'd have to soke the door bottom in it for a few days, maybe a week.
 
I didn’t paint after I did it since it was on those door interiors like yours, but it does say it can be painted over. I’ve tried a lot of products and I think Por 15 is the best for stopping rust. It’s a little pricey but it’s worth it IMO.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom