Advice: How much should I pay for half of 2f engine rebuild process (1 Viewer)

[Beehanger]

Hi All,

I'm pulling the plug on a mechanic that's been taking far too long (like 4 months) to do an engine rebuild process for me on my 2f. He disassembled everything 5 months ago and the engines been sitting at a machine shop ever since. I want to move the process to Boulder CO with me and find someone else to help me with it, maybe even a mud member. curious what you all think is a fair price for me to pay for pulling of the engine on an 85 FJ60 and the typical ballpark labor hours and cost.

Also, since the machine shop hasn't done much to the engine I think I might pull it form there or just have them do the actual machining work and Ill do the reassembly myself. How much should just having them do the machine work cost ballpark?

Also if anyone can speak from experience, How s***ty is it going to be to ship the engine and truck with parts all over the place? Should I have them bolt the non rebuilt motor back in just for hauling it to CO?

Last question---- is it worth the effort to ship everything that way I can have the experience of doing it myself and getting it done sooner and not be disrespected with all the time its taking?

Beehanger

 

[Beehanger]

Cruiser shipped back, completed engine (minus assembly of head and block together) and all items in the back. Everything’s paid for and gunna finish what I started. Exhausted, but I’m still here
Thanks for all your prior comments
Beehanger

 

[Beehanger]

For the record paid $3400 for the rebuild and $1440 for the original uninstall. It stings but could have been worse, learned to negotiate quotes upfront- to be less naive - and to really choose the people you trust with your stuff and money

 

[Beehanger]

Feels good to have my wallet back

 

[Beehanger]

Feels good to have my wallet back

Best threads/ places to figure out what parts and bolts I need to order ahead of time? Any vendor recommendations?

I’m sure Oreilly’s will have some stuff they can grab on the spot but trying to get ahead of the game figuring out where to go ahead of time.

Best
Dan

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I'd start with @cruiseroutfit if I was in the states

 

[Godwin]

Best threads/ places to figure out what parts and bolts I need to order ahead of time? Any vendor recommendations?

I’m sure Oreilly’s will have some stuff they can grab on the spot but trying to get ahead of the game figuring out where to go ahead of time.

Best
Dan

The order of approach is to determine what you need first, then purchase the parts.. We haven't seen the state of repair of your 2F so we cannot give good advice on what you will need in order to reassemble.

I can give this advice - avoid Oreillys except for items such as carb cleaner, brake cleaner, name brand oil, etc.

Bolts and other fasteners use OEM, link to engine diagrams here https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...jlYR0RhZAJ9Vwc1IBM$&vid=0&q=JT3FJ60G5G1133269

 

[Seth S]

Looks like you need to frame yourself a small garage...could build it on pressure treated skid so its a floating structure (avoid taxes etc). keep the elements off you and maybe even some heat.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Looks like you need to frame yourself a small garage...could build it on pressure treated skid so its a floating structure (avoid taxes etc). keep the elements off you and maybe even some heat.

DekBlocks are great for slapping together a sub-$500 shed.

 

[Seth S]

DekBlocks are great for slapping together a sub-$500 shed.

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good idea. some 2x4's, some T1-11 plywood siding panels (not the greatest quality but cheap. Paint it with some "oops" paint from home depot and it will last a fair amount of time, some metal roof panels. You could have a simple structure up in a day or two and you could even build a hoist system in so you could lift the engine in and out without needing a smooth floor for an engine hoist.

 

[Beehanger]

good idea. some 2x4's, some T1-11 plywood siding panels (not the greatest quality but cheap. Paint it with some "oops" paint from home depot and it will last a fair amount of time, some metal roof panels. You could have a simple structure up in a day or two and you could even build a hoist system in so you could lift the engine in and out without needing a smooth floor for an engine hoist.

Not needed, working at a mechanics shop and will have access to some shop space

 

[Beehanger]

Not needed, working at a mechanics shop and will have access to some shop space

Finished day 1, unloaded stuff and got the cruiser in the shop. Unearthed some less than ideal things.
There’s rust on the rebuilt engine and head. They’ve been sitting in a parked car outside for 2 weeks and something with the moisture happened, so will have to scrape it off I imagine? Any pointers on this?

I’m trying to convince my boss to let me unload the engine in the shop so it’s not outside in the elements and can get cleaned, but don’t want to push it. Maybe if I wipe it down with oil I can store it outside.

There’s also some rust on almost all parts, which sucks. I’ll have to find a way to clean these too. I have a wire wheel at the shop but that’s about it.

 

[cps432]

Most of that will probably brush off with scotch pads and brass brushes. Just make sure you don’t get any rust or dirt in the oil passages or cylinders. WD40 was invented to displace water. Stands for water displacement - formula #40… so that will keep it from rusting till you get it back together. Spray it down and put it in a garbage bag to keep debris and whatnot from getting in it. Clean it up with acetone before you put it back together or try to paint it.

 

[Beehanger]

Most of that will probably brush off with scotch pads and brass brushes. Just make sure you don’t get any rust or dirt in the oil passages or cylinders. WD40 was invented to displace water. Stands for water displacement - formula #40… so that will keep it from rusting till you get it back together. Spray it down and put it in a garbage bag to keep debris and whatnot from getting in it. Clean it up with acetone before you put it back together or try to paint it.

Definitely some wd40 coated rust seeped in. I could get it all off without wire brush. I’m going to disassemble and clean everything anyway. As for the oil passages, there’s rust in there and will have to use piper cleaners or something to get it out

 

[Beehanger]

Definitely some wd40 coated rust seeped in. I could get it all off without wire brush. I’m going to disassemble and clean everything anyway. As for the oil passages, there’s rust in there and will have to use piper cleaners or something to get it out

Day 2 complete, engine out of the truck sprayed with 40 and covered. Enjoying my first Ih8mud tradition beer

 

[cps432]

Day 2 complete, engine out of the truck sprayed with 40 and covered. Enjoying my first Ih8mud tradition beer

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You have a kitchen and wet bar in the shop? Rad.