Advice for Replacing Valve Cover Gasket FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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C

cpelarski

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Mar 11, 2020
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Lexington, KY
New to this forum. Appreciate any and all advice. I just purchased an 88 fj62 and replacing the valve cover gasket. Never done this and looking for any pointers/advice. Also if suggest to replace anything else while doing this place share! The gentleman I purchased from said car had been leaking oil slowly for 10 yrs..figure time to replace, plus hate the burning oil smell. Thanks all!

-Cory
 
This is a very very simple task. Remove the air cleaner bits and everything else bolted to valve cove, remove, clean all surfaces, reinstall. Don't overtighten the valve cover nuts as they are spec'd in in/lbs. Snugging them down is all thats needed with a new gasket, if it gets a little wet after a few days of driving, wipe down and snug just a bit more. Use the mindset that you tighten from the middle then outward. Same theory applies for manifold bolts, headbolts, sidecover pretty much anything where a flat plan is needed, especially if a cork gasket is used. Get used to doing this as you will need to do it everytime you adjust valves.

Spec for v/c nuts is 78in/lbs if you have an inch pounds torque wrench.
 
cpelarski said:
New to this forum. Appreciate any and all advice. I just purchased an 88 fj62 and replacing the valve cover gasket. Never done this and looking for any pointers/advice. Also if suggest to replace anything else while doing this place share! The gentleman I purchased from said car had been leaking oil slowly for 10 yrs..figure time to replace, plus hate the burning oil smell. Thanks all!

-Cory
Click to expand...
Removing the air box etc. is straight forward. What I've found is that there are a few hoses attached to the EFI that get in the way of the valve cover coming off. Also there are some wiring harnesses behind the end of the valve cover (near the firewall) that can get in the way too.
Push as much of that out of the way as possible, loosen the nuts on top and pull the valve cover up.
You'll probably still have to fiddle with the valve cover (tilting etc) to remove it since it's a little cramped in there and you need some height to clear the cover of the bolts coming from the valve train.
My general process has been lift the forward part, rotate it left leaving the valve cover only on the rear most valve bolt, Then lifting up (almost pushing up) while tilting the valve cover left until it clears the bolt near the firewall. It's taken be a few tries in the past.
Welcome and enjoy your 88. I have one as well.
 
are you adjusting the valves while you have it all exposed?
the side cover may be leaking also.
 
Also, it's a good idea to clean off the engine really well and then drive it a while to see where ALL the leaks are. Valve cover is an easy one, but yes - side cover could be too and probably the oil pan gasket and more! :)
And yes, check the valves while the valve cover is off.
 
Be careful with the big air intake hoses. They are brittle and expensive and your rig won't run right if they tear
 
Replace the washers on the valve cover while your doing that.
 
mattressking said:
This is a very very simple task. Remove the air cleaner bits and everything else bolted to valve cove, remove, clean all surfaces, reinstall. Don't overtighten the valve cover nuts as they are spec'd in in/lbs. Snugging them down is all thats needed with a new gasket, if it gets a little wet after a few days of driving, wipe down and snug just a bit more. Use the mindset that you tighten from the middle then outward. Same theory applies for manifold bolts, headbolts, sidecover pretty much anything where a flat plan is needed, especially if a cork gasket is used. Get used to doing this as you will need to do it everytime you adjust valves.

Spec for v/c nuts is 78in/lbs if you have an inch pounds torque wrench.
Click to expand...
mattressking said:
This is a very very simple task. Remove the air cleaner bits and everything else bolted to valve cove, remove, clean all surfaces, reinstall. Don't overtighten the valve cover nuts as they are spec'd in in/lbs. Snugging them down is all thats needed with a new gasket, if it gets a little wet after a few days of driving, wipe down and snug just a bit more. Use the mindset that you tighten from the middle then outward. Same theory applies for manifold bolts, headbolts, sidecover pretty much anything where a flat plan is needed, especially if a cork gasket is used. Get used to doing this as you will need to do it everytime you adjust valves.

Spec for v/c nuts is 78in/lbs if you have an inch pounds torque wrench.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I’ll pick up a torque wrench for in/lbs. appreciate the knowledge! Thanks again!

Cory
 
EscapeWagon62 said:
Removing the air box etc. is straight forward. What I've found is that there are a few hoses attached to the EFI that get in the way of the valve cover coming off. Also there are some wiring harnesses behind the end of the valve cover (near the firewall) that can get in the way too.
Push as much of that out of the way as possible, loosen the nuts on top and pull the valve cover up.
You'll probably still have to fiddle with the valve cover (tilting etc) to remove it since it's a little cramped in there and you need some height to clear the cover of the bolts coming from the valve train.
My general process has been lift the forward part, rotate it left leaving the valve cover only on the rear most valve bolt, Then lifting up (almost pushing up) while tilting the valve cover left until it clears the bolt near the firewall. It's taken be a few tries in the past.
Welcome and enjoy your 88. I have one as well.
Click to expand...

EscapeWagon62,

Thanks for the info. My first time doing this so planning on it being an all day event. Love the FJ. Been after one for a while. Wanted one that could work on. Cheers!

Cory
 
3_puppies said:
are you adjusting the valves while you have it all exposed?
the side cover may be leaking also.
Click to expand...

I wasn’t going to but sounds like I will now! What tools or parts will need for this? Might as well if this far into it...plus have a ton of down time now.

Cory
 
mattressking said:
Download FSM from one of the many people on here @NeverGiveUpYota or @gregnash

Just need feeler gauges, flat head and 12mm wrench and some patience for your first time. Check clearance with motor hot and idling, if feeler slides in with some resistance, you're good. If it doesn't fit or the valve quiets down with insertion of feeler, that valve needs adjusting.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thanks again. Let y’all know how this goes next week. Did a complete front brake change and stripped a nut on the front brake line from the hub to the brake tube..been a disaster. Two leaks and having to buy and bend new line. Can’t get a solid seal on the new brake tubes. I’m messing something up. Learning though
 
cpelarski said:
Ok. Thanks again. Let y’all know how this goes next week. Did a complete front brake change and stripped a nut on the front brake line from the hub to the brake tube..been a disaster. Two leaks and having to buy and bend new line. Can’t get a solid seal on the new brake tubes. I’m messing something up. Learning though
Click to expand...

Flare wrenches are key for brake lines. Some brake lines are still available new from toyota nad the short hard line and soft line are available.
 
I've done mine hot, it only takes a couple minutes to get in there if you have done it before. The side cover is an incredible PITA. Especially if you have AC, the front bolts are buried behind the AC compressor and PS pump bracket.
 
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