Advice for Purchasing FJ40 Restoration Project.

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by username, Jun 13, 2018.

  1. username

    username

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    Thinking about starting FJ40 restoration project. I just need to know things that are good to know. Such as things to look out for, common problems and ect.
     
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  2. Jdc1

    Jdc1 SILVER Star

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    Buy the most complete, rust free 40 your budget will allow. Be patient, there are still deals out there.
     
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  3. username

    username

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  4. 45Kevin

    45Kevin

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    That looks like a good truck for the money, but...
    Always be wary of checker plate. People don't put it on to look cool, they put it on to hide rust.
    I'd want a lot more pics before committing though.

    Ask him for underneath pics and floor pics.

    Does it come with doors and a roof?
     
  5. Jdc1

    Jdc1 SILVER Star

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    Lots of pieces missing on that one. Depending on your plans, that might not matter.
     
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  6. username

    username

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    Great advice thank you. I should have known bout the checker plating friend of mine used it to fix rust on his wrangler.
     
  7. username

    username

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    I'm thinking of a mostly original restro. Maybe some different tires and wheels and a winch. Depending on its color a different than original oem color. So it is important to have pieces.
     
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  8. shawnfj40

    shawnfj40

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    If you want something that you will drive. Look for something Newer with disk brakes. Power steering is a big help especially with bigger tires. There’s lots of info in the faqs if you look
     
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  9. username

    username

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    Fair point.
    So I guess I should find something with conversions or do them my self.
     
  10. Geezer Cruzzer

    Geezer Cruzzer

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    The diamond plate is not hiding the rust. It's holding together what is left of the tub!
     
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  11. shawnfj40

    shawnfj40

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    It is really up to you. The factory produced Power Steering, power brakes, Disc Brakes and even Air Conditioning. You have to decide what you want and how much you are willing to invest. Older models will have 3 speed trans, drum brakes and possibly no power brakes. Many of the 40's out there have already been modified. True restorations are going for insane cash right now I just saw one here in town for $75,000.00. But they are still around like the one you saw on CL. My advice first and foremost would be to go look at it and take some from your local cruiser community with you.
     
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  12. Living in the Past

    Living in the Past SILVER Star

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    That 69 appears to have a 72/73 engine. Better off with either a correct F145 or a later 2F. No real advantage of that F155 and not original. A 2F while not original would at least be a upgrade.

    As time goes by little things like a engine will become more important. I see the claim of matching numbers engine all the time which for most part is BS. After the mid sixties Toyota dropped the engine serial number from the VIN plaque. Only place to find would be on original paperwork like the warranty booklet or from Toyota. Good luck getting that information from Toyota.
     
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  13. MOTOV8R

    MOTOV8R SILVER Star

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    Personally I would focus on frame and body integrity. After those two I would try to minimize PO hack jobs (closer to stock is going to easier to resto). Study up and decide if you prefer earlier, middle or late years. If you don't have a preference it'll be easier to find something with a good frame and body.
     
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  14. ELSIE80

    ELSIE80

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    Don't want to thread jack here at all, but I am in a somewhat similar position, except I have a 94 locked 80 series and a guy who wants to trade me his 40. Need to sell the 80, and don't really need the 40 as a replacement so I'd end up selling it as well, but want to make an informed trade if I went this route.

    I don't know as much about the 40s so figured I'd get some opinions here, and @username , maybe this will open up some further discussion into things you might look for in your project, or be one you might consider. It's a 71 with a 2F and 4 speed, clear title, no rust except a little bubbling on the rear by the old "4 WHEEL DRIVE" Emblem, disc brakes up front and power steering. Runs and drives fine as his DD right now but is currently missing the cluster so not sure on mileage. Tiny bit of a leak from the t-case. What's something like this worth in this market? What else should I ask/look for when I go check it out? I value my 80 at $7500, so I'd want to know this one is worth at least, if not more.
    30759.jpeg 30760.jpeg 30768.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
  15. ryanwk628

    ryanwk628

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    For $5K that is a good deal. Ive seen worse go for more
     
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  16. rkymtnflyfisher

    rkymtnflyfisher SILVER Star

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    That ^^^^^




    And a home equity line of credit.
     
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  17. ryanwk628

    ryanwk628

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    Is that a 2F motor or just a 2F valve cover? Either way, seeing the market where I am (outside NYC) I’d buy it for 7500.
     
  18. username

    username

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    Yes, but I'm not a master mechanic or master fabricator so if its best to find some thing that isn't too bad condition wise.
     
  19. Martyt

    Martyt SILVER Star

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    In CA, if it runs (even badly), $5k is a steal as a driver. If you are going for stock, then I would spend more and get something closer to original— much closer; money pits either way but we love them anyway.
     
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