Advice - Broken Radiator Drain Cock

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Sep 25, 2018
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I was feeling risky today and it didn't turn out well...I was hoping to get the radiator drain cock unstuck on my '74 FJ40 and managed to snap it right off the drain tube. If anyone has any advice on ways to go about fixing it I'd sure appreciate it.

I see that the drain tube is threaded into the bottom of the radiator with what looks like maybe a pipe thread. I'm very afraid of trying to unscrew it since I'm pretty sure I'll either destroy the radiator or mangle the drain tube. All I can think of is trying to braze a machined fitting to it that allows me attach an off the shelf drain cock. I'd sure like to find an easier solution.
petcock.JPG

Thanks.
 

RAGINGMATT

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach.....
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I offer J.I.S. Radiator Drain tube & Engine Block Drain pet-cock Kits

I make Hand make these myself to Japanese Industrial Standards pipe thread pitch and diameter

Made from Thick RED brass that will not Rust , has stainless steel petcock twist

I designed the Radiator tube drain specifically with the 40 series Cross-Member access in

mind ,

the engine block petcock has a Thick Solid Brass Twist


& Follow @bikersmurf 's suggestion for removal of your old broken steel tube , he's spot on




DSCN9876.JPG
 
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Joined
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Messages
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Thanks guys. I just had to go grab some more PB Blast and will give it a shot with the hot and cold right now. A new radiator would be great but want to try this first and see if I have the option to just repair it.
 

RAGINGMATT

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach.....
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Thanks guys. I just had to go grab some more PB Blast and will give it a shot with the hot and cold right now. A new radiator would be great but want to try this first and see if I have the option to just repair it.

Make sure u place the plumbers pipe wrench near the base of the Radiator , NOT out towards the Tip of the broken tube , this will give u a

Positive Straight , Plumb-Level-Square turn .

if u go at it at the end Tip , the tube will bend sideways
 

Steamer

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If you bugger it up trying and the radiator's in decent shape, a radiator shop can solder in a new bung for far less than a new radiator.
 
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I can not understand why you guys try to save a couple bucks on a relic part. I second what Mark said. Buy a new radiator, they are cheap. Especially so compared to the the most likely outcome. Case in point: A couple weeks ago a guy was questioning whether an old oil pump would be good enough for his rebuilt 2F motor. No. No and no.
 
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The engine builder who has done several motors for me will not even consider building a motor without a new oil pump! In my 40 I bought a new oem rad (comes with a new cap) on my 62 I took it to a shop and had it cleaned and fixed.
 
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If you bugger it up trying and the radiator's in decent shape, a radiator shop can solder in a new bung for far less than a new radiator.
I was going to do this on my Cruiser after it worked out well on another vehicle (cough-Jeep-cough) but then the little T shaped piece of metal twisted free and now just spins. This would be problematic on Cruisers where the radiator is recessed up into the core support. There would be no way of getting a pair of pliers up in there if I needed to drain the radiator in a sensitive environment. I have an aftermarket radiator with what I assume is a standard pipe thread fitting and a plastic plug which has stripped out more than once. Factory drain plug components don't seem to fit so I need to address this too.
 

SteveH

 
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Some brand new FJ40 radiators come with a crappy, recessed nylon wing nut (not on a long stalk that protrudes through the core support) that its impossible to reach, but if you do remove it, will spray coolant all over creation when you drain the radiator. You'd have fab on the extended drain tube anyway.

I would properly fix the old radiator if it otherwise is sound and the truck is not overheating.
 

RAGINGMATT

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach.....
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I was feeling risky today and it didn't turn out well...I was hoping to get the radiator drain cock unstuck on my '74 FJ40 and managed to snap it right off the drain tube. If anyone has any advice on ways to go about fixing it I'd sure appreciate it.

I see that the drain tube is threaded into the bottom of the radiator with what looks like maybe a pipe thread. I'm very afraid of trying to unscrew it since I'm pretty sure I'll either destroy the radiator or mangle the drain tube. All I can think of is trying to braze a machined fitting to it that allows me attach an off the shelf drain cock. I'd sure like to find an easier solution.
View attachment 1828723
Thanks.
Heat and then ice the tube a few time aply penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. It should come easily if you go slow.
I was going to do this on my Cruiser after it worked out well on another vehicle (cough-Jeep-cough) but then the little T shaped piece of metal twisted free and now just spins. This would be problematic on Cruisers where the radiator is recessed up into the core support. There would be no way of getting a pair of pliers up in there if I needed to drain the radiator in a sensitive environment. I have an aftermarket radiator with what I assume is a standard pipe thread fitting and a plastic plug which has stripped out more than once. Factory drain plug components don't seem to fit so I need to address this too.
Some brand new FJ40 radiators come with a crappy, recessed nylon wing nut (not on a long stalk that protrudes through the core support) that its impossible to reach, but if you do remove it, will spray coolant all over creation when you drain the radiator. You'd have fab on the extended drain tube anyway.

I would properly fix the old radiator if it otherwise is sound and the truck is not overheating.





for those who need or want a new Radiator u have 2 options Aftermarket or OEM , a OEM Toyota one from a Supporting Vendor like @beno

will have the Drain Tube hole for the Pet-Cock Tube properly positioned over the Cross-Member Through Hole for installation and future use

during a coolant flush or drain for other repair related reasons



Now , Aftermarket like @SteveH usually come with that crappy black plastic wing nut that Not in the correct location to use a drain tube

through the cross-Member , ( this includes the quality built CSF brand too ) U will and I have been forced to remove the Lower Radiator hose

to drain the cooling system , not only does this SUCK labor time wise , but it makes a huge Mess on the Shop Floor

i have found only 1 exception to this aftermarket Radiator drain hole location topic , Supporting Vendor Mike @Cruiser Corps sells a

Aluminum aftermarket

Radiator with a Cross-Member through hole properly positioned , it comes with a Brass wing Nut and solid black rubber washer


But u still can't reach or twist the brass wing nut after install due to its tight space above the Cross Member

the Brass wing nut thread pitch and diameter is much smaller then the OEM toyota drain hole and tube



so i Designed this :

- it uses my Full size Reproduction Toyota J.I S. Tube & Pet-Cock

- then a step-down adapter that matches the thread pitch & diameter of the New Aluminum Radiator

- I used a special Aluminum washer with vulcanized rubber center , I also applied Toyota Black FIPG 00295-00102 oil pan & cam shaft

housing sealant to the male tube threads & both sides of the aluminum w/ rubber washer

- This make for a Bomb-Proof long term trouble free of leaks install ( of the drain tube assy pet-cock kit )





 
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65swb45

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for those who need or want a new Radiator u have 2 options Aftermarket or OEM , a OEM Toyota one from a Supporting Vendor like @beno

will have the Drain Tube hole for the Pet-Cock Tube properly positioned over the Cross-Member Through Hole for installation and future use

during a coolant flush or drain for other repair related reasons



Now , Aftermarket like @SteveH usually come with that crappy black plastic wing nut that Not in the correct location to use a drain tube

through the cross-Member , ( this includes the quality built CSF brand too ) U will and I have been forced to remove the Lower Radiator hose

to drain the cooling system , not only does this SUCK labor time wise , but it makes a huge Mess on the Shop Floor

i have found only 1 exception to this aftermarket Radiator drain hole location topic , Supporting Vendor Mike @Cruiser Corps sells a

Aluminum aftermarket

Radiator with a Cross-Member through hole properly positioned , it comes with a Brass wing Nut and solid black rubber washer


But u still can't reach or twist the brass wing nut after install due to its tight space above the Cross Member

the Brass wing nut thread pitch and diameter is much smaller then the OEM toyota drain hole and tube



so i Designed this :

- it uses my Full size Reproduction Toyota J.I S. Tube & Pet-Cock

- then a step-down adapter that matches the thread pitch & diameter of the New Aluminum Radiator

- I used a special Aluminum washer with vulcanized rubber center , I also applied Toyota Black FIPG 00295-00102 oil pan & cam shaft

housing sealant to the male tube threads & both sides of the aluminum w/ rubber washer

- This make for a Bomb-Proof long term trouble free of leaks install ( of the drain tube assy pet-cock kit )




This is really good tech!
 

Cruiser Corps

Toyota Land Cruiser Parts | Oklahoma City | USA
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Leave it to Matt to come up with a fix!

Good idea. My mind doesn’t ever work that way.

Once again...... Great job!

Now......back to work
 
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