- Thread starter
- #301
Yep I’m on flat ground.
Builds Adventure Cruiser "Rosey" - How Many More Times... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BMValentine
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tmxmotorsports
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Ok way to much caster
- Thread starter
- #303
Update!: Just ordered shocks, went with the same setup that @Hojack is going to be running, the Bilstein's are priced right and good performance to boot. I also received my pinion correction shims. I ordered 4º shims and that did the trick. My next question is in regards to the necessity of a cut and turn.... My caveat with my question is this: don't jump to conclusions after reading my question, I just want to understand the ramifications of both sides of the equation. My caster is a little over +8º I have seen recommendations that range from +3º to +6º. What do you guys recommend I set it to and what is the drawback to keeping it where it is? Lastly not concerning the cut n turn, what recommendations do you guys have for a home alignment? (something that will get me to the alignment shop)
- Thread starter
- #304
Pictures of it will be forthcoming soon.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
As far as alignment I had C-Chanel at work. Cut the C-channel to fit around hub and 2 lug nuts. The channel was 37” in length, my tire size. Measured front and back C-channel to C-channel and adjusted accordingly until front and back were even.
Update... can’t find any pictures on my phone.
Update... can’t find any pictures on my phone.
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Why do you need to bring it to an alignment shop if you do an alignment at home? I never trust those idiots
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- #307
I did some more research into the alignment, I guess I was applying my experience from my IFS Tacoma, to a solid front. It is a lot more simple of a process than I thought. I learn by seeing and by doing so I was having a hard time picturing it
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- #308
Weather in Virginia Beach has been crappy, but finally got around to taking some pictures. So here is a sampling. It is sitting tall! I am going to get some different shackles to hopefully make it sit a little shorter and I’m not overly impressed with the anti inversion shackles. This think makes my 35’s look small!
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- #309
So I've tracked down my coolant leak to the hard lines that run to the factory transmission oil cooler, I need to replace these lines. What is the best options for this? Also, I am probably going to pick up an aluminum champion 3 core radiator and add a second transmission cooler what recommeded parts should I pick up to upgrade my cooling lines and system? Lastly, with the aluminum radiators is the Toyota red antifreeze ok to use or is there another option?
Truck looks mean man. Will be fun once you get it together correctly.
You need to tear the axle down and redo your cut and turn. It is entirely nonsensical to install caster correction shims before a cut and turn. Cut off the spring perches, set the pinion exactly where it needs to be, weld spring perches on at that angle, THEN do your cut and turn to set your caster angle correctly. Like you said before, it's not a cruiser thing to cut corners.
Also, be cautious with assuming you're on "flat" ground. Your eye won't be able to detect a 4* slope in the pavement, and all driveways are sloped to some degree for water runoff. Incorrectly assuming you're on "flat" ground can make your caster off by quite a bit, negatively affecting drivability.
For your coolant leak, the factory transmission cooler is part of the factory radiator. The transmission cooler lines do not flow coolant, they flow ATF.
If you're moving to an aftermarket radiator, get one without an integrated PS cooler and run a normal standalone transmission cooler in front of the AC condenser. I recommend using the factory FZJ80 transmission cooler. It is of sufficient size, and has a convenient port orientation for the front of a 60/62.
You need to tear the axle down and redo your cut and turn. It is entirely nonsensical to install caster correction shims before a cut and turn. Cut off the spring perches, set the pinion exactly where it needs to be, weld spring perches on at that angle, THEN do your cut and turn to set your caster angle correctly. Like you said before, it's not a cruiser thing to cut corners.
Also, be cautious with assuming you're on "flat" ground. Your eye won't be able to detect a 4* slope in the pavement, and all driveways are sloped to some degree for water runoff. Incorrectly assuming you're on "flat" ground can make your caster off by quite a bit, negatively affecting drivability.
For your coolant leak, the factory transmission cooler is part of the factory radiator. The transmission cooler lines do not flow coolant, they flow ATF.
If you're moving to an aftermarket radiator, get one without an integrated PS cooler and run a normal standalone transmission cooler in front of the AC condenser. I recommend using the factory FZJ80 transmission cooler. It is of sufficient size, and has a convenient port orientation for the front of a 60/62.
- Thread starter
- #311
It looks like the transmission cooler is attached to the radiator at the bottom am I mixing up my terms then? I'll have to get some pictures and post later to get a better identification.
The factory transmission cooler is part of the radiator. The lines that connect to the bottom of the radiator carry ATF.
- Thread starter
- #313
what caster angle did you go with on yours?
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- #314
Oh, I'm following now. so there is 2 different fluids in the radiator each on its own circuit
4* iirc. What boots said is right, aim for 3-4*.
I too have J6x rear springs up front and 3/4t chevy 63" springs in the rear. Works exceptionally well.
I too have J6x rear springs up front and 3/4t chevy 63" springs in the rear. Works exceptionally well.
- Thread starter
- #316
So what is the downside to running the caster at +7° which is about 3-4° more than what came from factory?
Mike already explained it for you. If you want to drive this on the road more than from the trailer to the trail, then you need to get your caster in range.
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- #318
I see what he said but if it doesn't jack the wheel up and down when turning from full turn to full turn and only makes the steering wheel heavier. then it seems like more of a preference thing instead of a right vs wrong thing. Don't jump down my throat I am just trying to fully understand.
Think of the plane the trunion bearings are on which the knuckle rotates on for steering. They are not parallel to the ground (0 degrees caster). The more caster is set away from 0 degrees the more the wheel will move with that arch which is either towards the ground (down) or away from the ground (up). The wheel does move up and down and that causes that contact patch on the tire to change causing unexpected handling and steering behavior. I'm not talking about moving up and down in inches but it will be enough to change the handling dynamics and will accelerate wear on parts and tires.
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- #320
Ok, Which will inevitably cause excessive wear or parts failure. Thank you for the explanation. I always appreciate and will value someone's opinion more if they can discuss the reasons behind doing something.
