Advanced Adapters motor mounts. (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

was just looking on the advance adapter web site.. see language from the instructions...on the web site in *.pdf, partially pasted below. So in general,
the expression "give it your best shot" applies. The pic in the instructions does not show the frame side mount, it just shows the engine side mount, with it bolted together to the large rubber "donuts"...nothing that really leaves you understanding the orientation of the frame side mount...From the below I take it to read...mount the frame side mount as you see fit. We'll see how mine turns out. I don't baby the engine, but I'm not a serious rock crawler either....I'm sure the 5.7 puts out a good bit more torque and HP than the I-6.

These Universal engine mounts are designed for use on all types of 4WD and 2WD vehicles that have frame rail widths
up to 32". The frame brackets can be used in either the upward or downward position for best engine location. The
bracket can be either welded or bolted into position. If you are dealing with a vehicle that has an open channel, then
you should box in the frame rail prior to mounting the new bracket.
Several holes have been stamped in each motor bracket to allow the engine to be offset or centered in the frame rail. On
4WD Jeep and Toyota conversions, it is best to offset the engine 1" towards the driver's side.
The height and lateral location of the motor is determined by the placement of the frame brackets. When trial fitting the
motor into the chassis assembly, the motor brackets insulator donuts and frame brackets should be assembled. Make
sure that the dual donut rubber mount assembly is pro

 

[lehiguy]

I had to cut mine. I would have made my own, but somehow I ended up with a pair of AA mounts given to me. As far as the frame part goes, there is no right or wrong way to do it, it just has to work and stay where you weld it.

 

[browser5031]

They came with the Mark's kit from $OR, so no chance to take them back. Elbert, I think yours are welded in strong as hell, I don't think they are going anywhere. I had to work today so no garage time, I'll try to cut the driver's side tomorrow. I might have to weld the holes like Elbert did. I was wondering why there were grinder marks on them.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Bump -
He says he got them in but there are no pics so I am pretty sure it didn't happen.

 

[Blacktopper]

AA mounts

Posting some pics I found of my install. ...this is the way we did it. Found some decent pics showing the mounts.
View attachment 353184View attachment 353185View attachment 353186

That doesn't look right to me. help me out Please.

 

[Elbert]

That doesn't look right to me. help me out Please.

whats the deal...I''m not tracking your question?

if you note in my prior comments, some people configure the mounts in a different orientation. I'm not sure if any of thats wrong, we just winged it and have the mounts as shown in the pics, I'm personally not concerned with that....they have been fine all this time. I just wanted to make sure that people were aware that we may not have put them in as others have....but where that really matters....it has not, at least on my end.

Think of the mounts as a "L" shape, with the hole being in the bottom flat plane of the "L", so if you welded the mount with the shape as an "L" in the orientation as I'm typed then that's one way, or if you flipped the L, to have the part with the mount hole to the top like an "F" thats another way. I hope my simple explanation shows the difference, I think most people use the mount as an "F". We used the mount as an a "L".... I wanted to make sure that people understand that...we did not have any reason....it just ended up being that way. I've had zero issues. Likely my friend and I just got in a hurry and were trying to get something to work and work it did....and maybe it was just simply that, I don't recall any specific reason we took that approach.

ask whatever you need to.....I'll asnswer what I know or recall.

 

[Blacktopper]

whats the deal...I''m not tracking your question?

if you note in my prior comments, some people configure the mounts in a different orientation. I'm not sure if any of thats wrong, we just winged it and have the mounts as shown in the pics, I'm personally not concerned with that....they have been fine all this time. I just wanted to make sure that people were aware that we may not have put them in as others have....but where that really matters....it has not, at least on my end.

Think of the mounts as a "L" shape, with the hole being in the bottom flat plane of the "L", so if you welded the mount with the shape as an "L" in the orientation as I'm typed then that's one way, or if you flipped the L, to have the part with the mount hole to the top like an "F" thats another way. I hope my simple explanation shows the difference, I think most people use the mount as an "F". We used the mount as an a "L".... I wanted to make sure that people understand that...we did not have any reason....it just ended up being that way. I've had zero issues. Likely my friend and I just got in a hurry and were trying to get something to work and work it did....and maybe it was just simply that, I don't recall any specific reason we took that approach.

ask whatever you need to.....I'll asnswer what I know or recall.

Your mounts look great. I'm wondering where on the frame should they be. Like from the back of the front cross member to the center of the mount?

 

[Elbert]

Your mounts look great. I'm wondering where on the frame should they be. Like from the back of the front cross member to the center of the mount?

I'm not sure there was any method to the madness, other than I used a marks adapter setup, so the front to rear spacing of the engine is basically set. We then set the engine as high as possible to clear the hood. So we had the hood off and ran a string across teh top of the fenders to guage clearance relative to the top of the engine (with air intake) and thats where we ended up. As I recall we had some minor clearance issues left to right with regard to getting the engine where we wanted it as to the frame rails and steering linkage/gear etc. I think from memory we had some problem where we could not get the holes on the mount to line like we wanted and my friend welded up one of the holes and we made a new "hole".....(in the left and right micro adjustment). on the mount.

In my view/experience (which is limited on these swaps) but you want the engine as high as you can get without hitting the hood.

my engine sits about as far forward as potentially possible (but thats controlled) by the marks adapter and mounts. End state I barely clear the radiator core such that I can run a 1998 versrion of the GM SUV fan clutch (that has that large single nut) at first glance I thought i was locked into electric fans, but as noted the GM mechanical fan clutch which I prefer does indeed work and works well to include the matching GM fan clutch cooling fan.

recall I'm running a 5.7 vortec, which is a different engine than 5.3 / 6.0.

If I were to do same setup again, it would not be with a marks adapter and I would want the engine to be in essentially teh same plane...but back from the radiator an inch or two more, such that I could have a better fan shroud. But things as to cooling have worked out and I've tried different things, but in my experience the OEM 4 core radiator or clone , works well. I have operational A/C and truck has never over-heated or boiled over.

 

[lcwizard]

I generally mount them the opposite side up on both 60s and 40s but always weld about 1/2" tall section of 3" exhaust tubing to the top of the mount.
The 3" fits nicely and doesn't let the donut shift as the rubber compresses and wears and the bolt becomes loose

 

[lcwizard]

If I can, I raise the motor to the point the fan is centered on the radiator or as close as I can get and still clear the body with the trans

 

[Elbert]

I take full credit for anything we did as to dumb approach or whatever, our experience with the LC was very limited, and we had very limited time to get the truck in rolling status and moving under its own power. I've not had any component failures on engine mounts or related parts, that might be luck or random selection..

I should probably get under there and check things....the concept of the bolt coming loose and dropping out is real. I think my friend may have tacked the nut in place so that is unlikely to occur, but that was a few years ago...