additive to get dirt out of engine oil system?

e9999

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Wondering what you guys think about using an additive to help remove dirt out of the engine oil system. I'm thinking to put it in right before changing oil to help get the dirt out with the dirty oil (resuspension etc) - but then what happens if the newly resuspended dirt ends up stuck someplace?
Alternatively, maybe a solvent that helps clean up tiny lube passages?
If there is such a thing that works, is it better to use with dirty oil right before changing it, or with clean oil?
thanks
Eric
(did some searches but nothing found yet)
 
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auto rx seeems to work good. go to bobistheoilguy.com and poke around in there, they have an additive section and you'll get all you need to know there, also get your self a good bypass oil filter like the ones i have :D
 
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Eric,

You thought on the loose stuff getting stuck in an oil passage is exactly correct. As Intigator said, if you are going to use an addtive to clean the engine, use the AutoRX. Personally, I would not use any additives, run a good oil and not worry about it.

Cary
 

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I'm in the process of auto rx right now. I'll report back on what I find. One quick thing I've noticed is that my dipstick is now readable. So, at least it cleans dipticks. ;)
 
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when my PS pump blew the front seal it was pumping a ton of ATF into my crankcase. I kept refilling my PS system, and it kept pumping into the engine ::)
After about 500-600 miles of trying to figure out what the heck was going on, I fixed the pump and changed the oil (only had 1,500-2,000 miles of use). It was blaaaaack!

My mechanic said "well...at least your engine is nice and clean now!" ::)

I've heard of people dumping a quart of good Dextron II into the oil 200-300 miles before their change. I can say it was some of the blackest oil I've seen, but no clumps or flakes (so hopefully, nothing solid to clog small passages)
 

e9999

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went to the store. They had 2 or 3 different kinds. One was CD2 (put it in and leave it for 2000miles) or something like it, another was Gunk IIRC, and a third with the same instructions as Gunk (put it in, leave it idling for 5 mins, don't drive, and change the oil right away...)

Rationale here is to see if I can find something good that cleans up clogged up arteries in the engine (thought process started initially by another old truck -not LC- displaying some valve or lifter clatter, which I'll experiment on first for safety...)

E
 
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I would not play chemist with your oil/engine. Just change it and run a good synthetic. Change it every 3000 miles for a couple of changes and then run it 5000 miles between oil and filter changes. Should last longer than you want to drive it.
 
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[quote author=wob link=board=2;threadid=9149;start=msg79625#msg79625 date=1072212582]
I've noticed is that my dipstick is now readable. So, at least it cleans dipticks. ;)
[/quote]

I wouldn't use any oil additives on my dipstick. :whoops: But I'm glad your's is now clean and okay wob, but next time, remember: Penicillin :D

Here's one for the other old farts on the board: Marvel Mystery Oil. I know they still sell the stuff, 'cause I've seen it in the parts stores. You just add some, run the engine for a short time, then drain and refill. Or that's at least what the guys used to do. I also know some guys that ran kerosene in the engine (added it to the oil, not replaced). Supposedly did the same as the MMO.

Personally, I'm with the other guys and would not add anything to my engine that didn't belong there, despite the claims of the manufacturer. But it's fun to recall the day's of yore. :cheers: :cheers:

Tom
 
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[quote author=Pitbull link=board=2;threadid=9149;start=msg79691#msg79691 date=1072221415]
I would not play chemist with your oil/engine. Just change it and run a good synthetic. Change it every 3000 miles for a couple of changes and then run it 5000 miles between oil and filter changes. Should last longer than you want to drive it.
[/quote]

I kant run syn oil as my motor sucks it at high rpms. :mad:

I used ATF before oil change on the 2F motor(fj60) along with SeaFoam to stop valve clater and low compression in 2 cylinders. I also ran semisyn oil. Some time there after I gained some power, alot of power. The stuck rings must of unstucked :D The compression went up too.
The only problem with cleaning up the motor is that is started to use a bit if oil after that.
 
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Kurt aren't you talking about an engine with 230K+ miles and Eric isn't your truck a pretty new 100 series? I'm thinking with a older truck with 230K+ miles you might take chances but with a like new 100 series I would use a more moderate approach. But Eric what ever you do keep us posted I would like to know the results over the next 20K miles based on whatever you decide to use. Alway looking for knowledge. Good luck. By the way I did the synthetic changes that I talked about a little over 100K miles ago on my 95 after I bought it off a previous owner and found oil crud on my oil filler cap, did not know for sure how they treated it in the oil change department. I did the synthetic changes for a couple of times at short intervals and after that changed it every 5000 miles. Never any more oil crud and it uses about 1 quart of Mobil 1 5w30 between changes. Not bad for a LC with over 132K+ miles.
 

e9999

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Hi Pit:
well, I don't plan on doing this with the 100 right away. Will try with an older truck with serious valve noise first. But if it works OK, it may not be a bad idea to do this "flush" regularly starting from rather early on in the life of the engine since I don't imagine it could cause any problem besides crud resuspension and that may be more a problem with an older engine than a new one...
But, eh, what do I know anyway about all this, ready to stand corrected as always :-\...
Eric
 
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But, eh, what do I know anyway about all this, ready to stand corrected as always ...
Eric

Eric,

I know that you have learned already a lot through all your posts. I think that you have more knowledge than many other guys here. So keep smiling and start to use it with your LC100 or the LC80 that you will buy soon. :cheers:

Mike
 
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Pit, check your reading glesses :slap: I was talking about the 2F motor for the FJ60 :flipoff2: I have not used ATF in the 1FZ. I have not reason to do it,yet.
If your Power Steering seal goes,you will have ATF in your motor. Others have hsd this happen with no porblems to motor.
Adding it to oil and running the motor for 5min before oil change would be far less harmfull than having all the ATF from P/S pump in your motor for who knows how many miles.

e9999, does your 80 have valve clatter?
 
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Kurt, just curious? What has been your oil/filter routine with your 94 FZJ80 with 230K+ miles on it? I hope to get that out of my 95, whatever you are doing must be right.
 
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[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=9149;start=msg79911#msg79911 date=1072276976]
Pit, check your reading glesses :slap:
[/quote]

I don't wear reading glasses, I drink Dewar's and water in large amounts. :p :flipoff2: :)
 
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The topic of cleaning the motor out with ATF is a topic that has been hashed out many times on bobistheoilguy.com. The consensus is that:

1) Based on VOA (Virgin Oil Analysis) ATF has very little cleaning properties.

2) The benifits that people see are likely in high miliage motors that have not been maintained and have sludge built up (especially in the old days where sludge buildup from poor oil was common; and

3) The cleaning effect comes from the fact that ATF is about 10 weight oil and the light oil acts as a solvent.

The conclusion, if you want to use ATF to clean your motor, just go get some 0w-20 oil and add it.

My belief, don't use anything, just run good oil. If you have to use some cleaner use Auto RX.

Cary
 
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My 80 was new to me at 208,000 mi.

If you had the vehicle from new or near new then you wouldn't need to clean the motor.
But when you get a used and abused vehicle you kant go back and change the oil for them.
 

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