Adding rock lights to the rock sliders using the leftover wire connectors (1 Viewer)

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rommelrommel

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Soldered the wires? Or soldered the lights themselves? I'm trying to avoid soldering since I'm only good with heat shrink wire connectors.

Just soldered the wires, those heat shrink connections are fine too.

I also just drilled out the holes a bit more and bolted directly to the old running board mounts, you don’t get to aim to em this way but they are bright as heck and they are quite sturdy.
 
P

PhilipJPhry

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I just need to figure out the part number for the wire connector....

The wire connector should have a little part # stamped into it. That's the last 5 of the part number. The full part number would be 90980-xxxxx

Once you find one end, a little googling can help you find the other end.

You can find the full info in the wire harness repair manual: Toyota Wiring Connectors - Wire Harness Repair Manual RM1022E - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/WireHarnessRepairParts.php
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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The wire connector should have a little part # stamped into it. That's the last 5 of the part number. The full part number would be 90980-xxxxx

Once you find one end, a little googling can help you find the other end.

You can find the full info in the wire harness repair manual: Toyota Wiring Connectors - Wire Harness Repair Manual RM1022E - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/WireHarnessRepairParts.php
Great tip and link. I will see if I can read the last 5-digits from the existing connector. I'll document this connector if I figure it out.

Update -- I couldn't ready any numbers off the connectors. I even washed the connectors with water/soap and I still didn't find any part numbers stamped on them.
 
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HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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Parts arrived today.
CE9B096A BA31 46D2 AF22 35AD85BCBC27
 
Mr Chuck Norris

Mr Chuck Norris

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Damn, you're going all in! Looking great.

I stripped the old wire harness off my chopped up running boards and then crimp connected the same little LED lights you used. Then I zip ties them to my rock slider legs with little angled brackets to get them positioned correctly.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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Damn, you're going all in! Looking great.

I stripped the old wire harness off my chopped up running boards and then crimp connected the same little LED lights you used. Then I zip ties them to my rock slider legs with little angled brackets to get them positioned correctly.
Overkill it seems. It seems like I can at least 4+ foot distance between the two end points just by connecting the parts without adding any wire.

You can save money by not buying the 25-feet of 18 gauge wire. Confirmed that it’s not needed. Just by connecting the splitters, connectors and rock lights, you get around 5-feet of wire from rock light to rock light. And you only need about 4 feet to where the stock oem running board bolts are located.
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HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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Driver side done. I honestly don’t know what the value of using these waterproof splitters over hardwiring other than I can disconnect easily at various points.

After heating the heat shrink connectors, I wrapped them in black electrical tape.

I’ve temporarily attached the rock lights to the stock oem running board bolts. This will do until I figure out a simple bracket. I’ll go to Home Depot and look around.

I also used zip ties to manage the cables along the frame.

Here’s some pictures.

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B9C98FD4 4424 434E 9E34 ED8EAEB20745


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F470FED2 EE84 419A 9977 BA3D33FF5C1D
6C65AD67 BEB5 4303 88C7 6A3AD5437352
CA976459 8F81 43B6 AAAD 4D53C1F4B859
 
captainva

captainva

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You can also use liquid electrical tape over those heat shrink butt connectors. That stuff works really well for waterproofing connections you don't need to disconnect
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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You can also use liquid electrical tape over those heat shrink butt connectors. That stuff works really well for waterproofing connections you don't need to disconnect
I saw the liquid electrical tape at Home Depot. Didn’t know about that.

Seems like I woke up from the dark ages and now there’s various ways to connect and seal wires. Good tips for others to follow.

I sticking to what I have now for now. Heat shrink wire connectors and electrical tape.
 
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FROADER

FROADER

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So, new guy to having a vehicle with courtesy lights but not rock lights, here. Mine has had sliders since I bought it so I don't have the lights on my rig.
These only come on when you unlock and open the doors, correct? We aren't actually using these as rock lights while off-road, right?
 
B

Banandalorian

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So, new guy to having a vehicle with courtesy lights but not rock lights, here. Mine has had sliders since I bought it so I don't have the lights on my rig.
These only come on when you unlock and open the doors, correct? We aren't actually using these as rock lights while off-road, right?
Correct. Amazon special rock lights are cheap and perfectly fine for this. Reuse the OEM wiring harness or make you own, attach it to the existing connection underneath the truck, and viola, courtesy lights.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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That’s correct. I’m wiring them to work like the low dim step lights, except these are brighter.

They only go on as you describe.

Although there was a guy who said he opens his doors at night when wheeling to light the rocks! Lol

Correct. Amazon special rock lights are cheap and perfectly fine for this. Reuse the OEM wiring harness or make you own, attach it to the existing connection underneath the truck, and viola, courtesy lights.

So, new guy to having a vehicle with courtesy lights but not rock lights, here. Mine has had sliders since I bought it so I don't have the lights on my rig.
These only come on when you unlock and open the doors, correct? We aren't actually using these as rock lights while off-road, right?
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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I went to Home Depot and found some inexpensive 20ga metal strap tie ins for wood. They are 24” long and cost $0.98 each. Bought two. Picture below shows them already with the ends cut.

I cut the metal tie ins using metal scissors. I drilled new 1/4” holes to fit the screws of the rock light base, and spray painted black to provide some antirust protection.

I installed using the old running board stock oem screws that were left under the gx470. One of the large existing holes in the strap tie ins is good to fit the large oem running board bolt.

I had to use nuts as spacers for the running board bolts to prevent the bracket from angling in the wrong direction.

Good thing I have so much leftover tools, nuts, washers and other stuff from home and car projects.
9B855620 CC53 409D 9F19 671ADBED783C
AA42CEB2 C98C 44BE 847B 61787FA76E59
786874B3 1E16 469F 92C1 69C1DB8D6782


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5C81C661 D8DD 44E9 9480 93D04241CD39

D87CCFC0 7604 4183 9F32 2A2D2E79EACE
23968247 BB2A 414F A038 05A446F1D05A
483D7397 53A3 4D28 92B8 D2F219622D60
9F4C72B2 D829 46A9 806F 4AD476ED62C6
4CA545A6 BFF2 4A6D B2FC 4E8E986DF855
 
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Mr Chuck Norris

Mr Chuck Norris

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So, new guy to having a vehicle with courtesy lights but not rock lights, here. Mine has had sliders since I bought it so I don't have the lights on my rig.
These only come on when you unlock and open the doors, correct? We aren't actually using these as rock lights while off-road, right?

Using the OEM wiring only, yes.

I'll be wiring in a switch so I can turn mine on at will, and the door/unlock functions will still work. It requires a diode arrangement so the switched power doesn't backfeed into the GX chassis lighting controller.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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Using the OEM wiring only, yes.

I'll be wiring in a switch so I can turn mine on at will, and the door/unlock functions will still work. It requires a diode arrangement so the switched power doesn't backfeed into the GX chassis lighting controller.
If you can document your wiring to work as steps lights and also to control them with a switch...that would be cool to see.
 
Mr Chuck Norris

Mr Chuck Norris

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If you can document your wiring to work as steps lights and also to control them with a switch...that would be cool to see.

If I can get it to work, I'll definitely share the wealth here. I'm doing a few lighting things and I also did a bunch of suspension stuff so one of these days I should post up some info.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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If I can get it to work, I'll definitely share the wealth here. I'm doing a few lighting things and I also did a bunch of suspension stuff so one of these days I should post up some info.
Yeah, do your build thread. i think I’ve turned my build thread into a journal.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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I found the heat shrink wire connectors difficult to work with. In particular, crimping the inside metal to hold the wire tight. I screwed up a few because I would crimp and not catch the wire tightly.

Anyone find other wire connectors that are waterproof that are easier to work than these heat shrink wire connectors?

The using a butane lighter to shrink them left a lot to be desired in my skills as an electrician.

That liquid electric tape and non-crimping wire connectors are sounding great for my next project.

4A7BBBF4 1183 4C8C 84D9 5B526B39AA3A
 
Mr Chuck Norris

Mr Chuck Norris

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I found the heat shrink wire connectors difficult to work with. In particular, crimping the inside metal to hold the wire tight. I screwed up a few because I would crimp and not catch the wire tightly.

Anyone find other wire connectors that are waterproof that are easier to work than these heat shrink wire connectors?

The using a butane lighter to shrink them left a lot to be desired in my skills as an electrician.

That liquid electric tape and non-crimping wire connectors are sounding great for my next project.

View attachment 2894514

What are you crimping them with?

I've had the best luck with basic dedicated crimping pliers. These are what I have:


Though it does punch through the outer layer 50% of the time. I still tape/wrap everything anyway so I'm okay with that.

Also it looks like you're using 14-16ga connectors on 20ga-ish wire which also makes it way harder to crimp. When I'm using connectors that are way too big, I'll strip off double the length of insulation and then fold the wire back on itself so it fills the connector.
 
HomersCanyonero

HomersCanyonero

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What are you crimping them with?

I've had the best luck with basic dedicated crimping pliers. These are what I have:


Though it does punch through the outer layer 50% of the time. I still tape/wrap everything anyway so I'm okay with that.

Also it looks like you're using 14-16ga connectors on 20ga-ish wire which also makes it way harder to crimp. When I'm using connectors that are way too big, I'll strip off double the length of insulation and then fold the wire back on itself so it fills the connector.
I have channel lock wire crimpers/cutters.

I ran out of the 16 gauge heat shrink wire connectors and had to use 14 gauge ones. Wires are like 18 gauge. Stock wires are like 20 gauge, so you are right that my wire connectirs were a little big but even the 16 gauge ones were hard to insert the wire at the right spot and crimp.

Next time, I’m thinking of using the heat soldering wire connectors that don’t require crimping. Added the photo of these.

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F028B6FD B6CB 4D49 8859 BE51F1292A6E
 

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