Adding hitch to rusty 98 LC and towing 5500lbs (1 Viewer)

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Title says it all I have a rusty 98 LC. Nothing too serious. I have completed a "rustoration" by removing scale, applying rust bullet, top coating with rustoleum and maintaining with Woolwax on and in the frame. Obviously this does nothing to improve structural integrity to any damage already done. There is one hole in the rear cross member near the passenger rear wheel about the size of a dime but otherwise the frame is intact/solid. That said I'd like to add an aftermarket hitch reciever such as DrawTite 75095 which is designed to tow up to 6000 with a weight distributing hitch. I have two problems (maybe more). First am I even going to be able to safely salvage the holes to bolt this on? Would I just drill out the holes and helicoil them? I imagine with the rust the threads in those holes are shot. Would this be safe? Second suppose I was able to bolt this thing on would it be safe to tow 6000 lbs with said mostly superficially rusty rig? I'm probably crazy for suggesting this...
 
Title says it all I have a rusty 98 LC. Nothing too serious. I have completed a "rustoration" by removing scale, applying rust bullet, top coating with rustoleum and maintaining with Woolwax on and in the frame. Obviously this does nothing to improve structural integrity to any damage already done. There is one hole in the rear cross member near the passenger rear wheel about the size of a dime but otherwise the frame is intact/solid. That said I'd like to add an aftermarket hitch reciever such as DrawTite 75095 which is designed to tow up to 6000 with a weight distributing hitch. I have two problems (maybe more). First am I even going to be able to safely salvage the holes to bolt this on? Would I just drill out the holes and helicoil them? I imagine with the rust the threads in those holes are shot. Would this be safe? Second suppose I was able to bolt this thing on would it be safe to tow 6000 lbs with said mostly superficially rusty rig? I'm probably crazy for suggesting this...


Whats wrong with using your factory hitch receiver? Was it rusted out? I believe our rigs are able to tow roughly 6k with it.
 
"Send it"
 
So you don't have ...

A hitch receiver
Trailer brake controller
Trusted condition OEM receiver holes

I'd suggest you drill and tap to a slightly larger size, and just expand the receiver holes. The WDH definitely will help. Your bigger issue is brakes towing that much weight. Also ensure your tranny fluid is not old and use an OBD2 connection to monitor tranny temps real time while towing.

Does your trailer have brakes? Have you installed a 7pin outlet?
 
I can make the holes bigger and tap new threads that does sound better. I will also add a trailer brake controller, change the tranny fluid, and monitor my fluid temp.

I was planning on towing a travel trailer. 2018 Jay Flight SLX 8 264BH | Jayco, Inc. I assume it would have brakes and require a brake controller in my vehicle ?right?. The 7 pin will add reverse wire, 12v aux, and brake sending wire right? Sounds like 8 will need a 7 pin conversion.
 
Chances are good that trailer has electric brakes; check with the vendor to be sure. If not, you can add trailer brakes for about $500 all in if you do the work yourself.

With a WDH and trailer brakes it should be a stable platform to tow. With a WDH you don't need to add air bladders to help the rear springs - save the money and headache.

Consider adding a combo 4+7 pin outlet. Hopkins sells one I use and it works well. You have a wiring project staring you in the face since your rig did not come with an OEM receiver, correct?
 

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