Adding a brake buddy for flat towing? (1 Viewer)

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Has anyone had any luck mounting a brake buddy or supplemental brake system for flat towing? Wanting to tow behind motorhome and want to be legal.

I am having issues getting the unit between the seat and the brake pedal. I have built new seat brackets and put the new seats as far back as i can. Still no dice.

I am using the black/red brake buddy by brake master. I can't find any other manufactures with smaller units.

If you've had any luck please let me know make/model or picts.

thanks,
 
Try to post up some pictures of "the problem". I've always been interested in this solution. I don't think it's really very necessary behind a motorhome though.

Any thoughts of providing electric vacuum power for the system when towing?
 
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The brake buddy one I found came with this warning...

Note: Special Unit – Not for all Vehicles
Warning! This system is for use with vehicles equipped with Full-Time Electric Brakes ONLY.* Use with vehicles not equipped with Full-Time Power Brakes may result in insufficient braking.

Looks to be red and black, and not ideal for a 40
 
These guys claim they can run the brakes without power:

Readybrake RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - Night Shift Auto

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I have towed my fj40 many times with a brake assist sim to brake buddy. It mounts to bracket under seat and to brake. It is proportional and works great. Can't remember mfr but if intrested will take a look at it this weekend and give you more info.
 
Maybe not necessary, however I believe it's the law in most states for flat towing anything over a thousand pounds or so.


I will go snap some Picts this weekend when I see daylight and it's a bit warmer.
 
Any new suggestions? I'm looking at this possibility as well.
 
I don't like the idea of a permanently mounted cable attached to the brake pedal. Brake buddy can be had at that same price range as well.


I've flat towed a ton with my SRW ferd. Dually is a bed load capacity thing more than a towing rating.
 
I've flat towed a ton with my SRW ferd. Dually is a bed load capacity thing more than a towing rating.

Not worried about towing rating in the least. I'm worried about the propensity of the towed vehicle to push the tow rig sideways in a panic stop, especially downhill and/or in a corner. This happened to me towing with my wife's Suburban, fully loaded, on a wet offramp going about 25-30mph. Your (anyone's) SRW towing scares the crap out of me.

I see brake buddy for about $850.

Trailer...
 
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Not worried about towing rating in the least. I'm worried about the propensity of the towed vehicle to push the tow rig sideways in a panic stop, especially downhill and/or in a corner. This happened to me towing with my wife's Suburban, fully loaded, on a wet offramp going about 25-30mph. Your (anyone's) SRW towing scares the crap out of me.

I see brake buddy for about $850.

Trailer...

That's an exact reason to not have a dually. The second set of tires actually decreases the pressure on the contact patch. You may have more biting surfaces, but less downward pressure on them. For a standard weight on the bed. One of the reasons putting sand bags in the bed of a pickup truck helps out a lot for low traction situations.

Dually probably would have been worse than your wife's suburban in that exact same situation. (all things being equal, there is more to traction than multiple tires)

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4506.m570.l2736&_nkw=brake+buddy
 
The second set of tires actually decreases the pressure on the contact patch.

The downward pressure on the contact patch is directly proportional to the weight on the rear axle. It has nothing to do with the width of the tires or shape of the contact patch. A dually will have a larger contact patch, and therefore less pressure per square inch, which is probably what you mean, but this is one part of the equation.

One of the reasons putting sand bags in the bed of a pickup truck helps out a lot for low traction situations.

For sure and true in the case of DRW or SRW.

You may have more biting surfaces, but less downward pressure on them. For a standard weight on the bed.

Yes, but resistance to being pushed sideways has a component proportional to the number of "biting surfaces", to use your terminology.

The biggest components in this equation, though, are very complex. We're not talking about wooden blocks and fish scales. There are twisting forces known as Slip Angle, and Camber Thrust with the overall equation being represented by the Traction Circle.

I don't claim to be able to relate all these forces mathematically to the difference between a dually and a SRW pickup, but I do know that I've spun around in a dozen or more SRW vehicles in various situations, but never come close to doing so in my dually in 20 years.

This is why a higher performance Corvette or Mercedes has wider tires, for better cornering.
 
I am fully aware of the physics behind traction of tires. And obviously you feel strongly about your opinion. So we'll leave it at that.

I'm sorry that I scare you with my SRW truck. But that's your problem. People tow with them day in and day out perfectly safely. Setting up the truck and whatever you are towing properly is the most important thing.


I'm still wondering if anyone has gotten a brake buddy to work with a 40 series.
 
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I have the white Brake Buddy, it worked in my FJ40 from Seattle to South Carolina behind a Sprinter van with no problems. Took it to Daytona with the same results. I have Celica seats, but the mounts are the original configuration in the front where the brake buddy sits. It's designed to work on power brakes systems without the power assistance. It was a bit expensive when it was new, but you can find them used for much less. I hopes this helps.
 
any pics of mounting?
 

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