ACSD Removal 1HD-T (2 Viewers)

[foxtrot678]

Hey everyone, quick question… is there any specific reason that the coolant lines need to be looped after removal? I know this returns the cooling system to the same configuration, but is this loop needed for proper operation or is it solely there for the ACSD? i would rather cap off the lines completely to reduce engine bay clutter and reduce leak points for the future, but wanted to make sure the loop is not necessary. thanks!

 

[mudandrock]

Hey everyone, quick question… is there any specific reason that the coolant lines need to be looped after removal? I know this returns the cooling system to the same configuration, but is this loop needed for proper operation or is it solely there for the ACSD? i would rather cap off the lines completely to reduce engine bay clutter and reduce leak points for the future, but wanted to make sure the loop is not necessary. thanks!

The only reason they’re looped in the first place is because it’s the quickest and easiest way to get the job done. If you want to take the time to remove them completely it won’t hurt a thing.

 

[nickolai]

Just adding that when I deleted the ACSD on my 1HDT, I did it at the same time as replacing my intake manifold gaskets, meaning that the intake and injector lines were all off when I installed the plate. This creates loads of room so i was able to put a loop of new hose in. Loads more work, but a good 'while I'm in there'

 

[96TrailSurfer]

Hey everyone, quick question… is there any specific reason that the coolant lines need to be looped after removal? I know this returns the cooling system to the same configuration, but is this loop needed for proper operation or is it solely there for the ACSD? i would rather cap off the lines completely to reduce engine bay clutter and reduce leak points for the future, but wanted to make sure the loop is not necessary. thanks!

You can cap the fittings or even remove them and put in blanks. The main reason people don’t do it is because access is a huge PITA.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

That is what I am planning on doing - capping them at the block. Based on this flow diagram, ACDS coolant supply is just an accessory. Capping it will not change anything.

 

[OGBeno]

That is what I am planning on doing - capping them at the block. Based on this flow diagram, ACDS coolant supply is just an accessory. Capping it will not change anything.

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Or you can buy the correct parts to transform into a non-ACSD set-up (freeze plug and a new oil cooler cover). Another way of going about it.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Or you can buy the correct parts to transform into a non-ACSD set-up (freeze plug and a new oil cooler cover). Another way of going about it.

I think I will save this method for when the motor needs to come out. Same with the block heater pipe.

 

[4Ruster]

When I deleted mine, I kept the idle up linkage and put in a choke cable so I can manually raise the idle when its cold.

 

[duece71]

ACSD delete completed today…..
Thanks to Stiles and Hillcountry for their photos and description. Definitely a fiddly proceedure for sure. The bottom Hex bolt on the ACSD broke loose with a LOUD snap, I practically pooped myself as I thought I broke a bolt. All bolts were hosed down with PBlaster. The top hex bolt got caught up on the spring and required careful movement. I had to use a flat head screw driver to move the cold starting lever (?) forward to access the top hex bolt, the spring is quite large. I used the Back40 imports kit and everything worked great. The engine fired right up without hesitation (I primed the fuel pump with 20 plunger presses). No leaks, fuel or coolant. Also, I bought 2 new hex bolts for the ACSD delete plate. They are M6x12 and both fit perfectly. M6x16 are too long btw.

 

[duece71]

This is how much fuel and coolant I lost.

 

[veiloctane]

ACSD delete completed today…..
Thanks to Stiles and Hillcountry for their photos and description. Definitely a fiddly proceedure for sure. The bottom Hex bolt on the ACSD broke loose with a LOUD snap, I practically pooped myself as I thought I broke a bolt. All bolts were hosed down with PBlaster. The top hex bolt got caught up on the spring and required careful movement. I had to use a flat head screw driver to move the cold starting lever (?) forward to access the top hex bolt, the spring is quite large. I used the Back40 imports kit and everything worked great. The engine fired right up without hesitation (I primed the fuel pump with 20 plunger presses). No leaks, fuel or coolant.

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Interesting to use a union. I just got. A longer piece of hose I don’t like worm clamps.

 

[duece71]

Interesting to use a union. I just got. A longer piece of hose I don’t like worm clamps.

Me either but it was 90+ degrees in my garage and I was done for the day. Maybe do something with it in the future.

 

[veiloctane]

Me either but it was 90+ degrees in my garage and I was done for the day. Maybe do something with it in the future.

Ok just keep a eye on the worm clamps. They seem to loosen up in time.

 

[duece71]

Ok just keep a eye on the worm clamps. They seem to loosen up in time.

Definitely, if they start to loosen or degrade, I will swap them out for for those “pinch”(?) clamps. Not sure what they are called.

 

[4Ruster]

ACSD delete completed today…..
Thanks to Stiles and Hillcountry for their photos and description. Definitely a fiddly proceedure for sure. The bottom Hex bolt on the ACSD broke loose with a LOUD snap, I practically pooped myself as I thought I broke a bolt. All bolts were hosed down with PBlaster. The top hex bolt got caught up on the spring and required careful movement. I had to use a flat head screw driver to move the cold starting lever (?) forward to access the top hex bolt, the spring is quite large. I used the Back40 imports kit and everything worked great. The engine fired right up without hesitation (I primed the fuel pump with 20 plunger presses). No leaks, fuel or coolant. Also, I bought 2 new hex bolts for the ACSD delete plate. They are M6x12 and both fit perfectly. M6x16 are too long btw.

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Off topic but could I get another angle showing how far out your dynamic timing screw is set out?

 

[Stiles]

ACSD delete completed today…..
Thanks to Stiles and Hillcountry for their photos and description. Definitely a fiddly proceedure for sure. The bottom Hex bolt on the ACSD broke loose with a LOUD snap, I practically pooped myself as I thought I broke a bolt. All bolts were hosed down with PBlaster. The top hex bolt got caught up on the spring and required careful movement. I had to use a flat head screw driver to move the cold starting lever (?) forward to access the top hex bolt, the spring is quite large. I used the Back40 imports kit and everything worked great. The engine fired right up without hesitation (I primed the fuel pump with 20 plunger presses). No leaks, fuel or coolant. Also, I bought 2 new hex bolts for the ACSD delete plate. They are M6x12 and both fit perfectly. M6x16 are too long btw.

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So clean!

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I had a change in direction with this - Since the ACDS is still available new from Toyota at $223 USD, I will replace it instead of deleting.
Original lasted, without failure, for 26 years. We experience and travel to various climates so having this feature is great. Talk me out of it.

 

[mudandrock]

I had a change in direction with this - Since the ACDS is still available new from Toyota at $223 USD, I will replace it instead of deleting.
Original lasted, without failure, for 26 years. We experience and travel to various climates so having this feature is great. Talk me out of it.

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You want me to talk you out of it? Ok, here goes… Just to be clear, I offer a delete kit to keep the Cruiser community supplied with a necessary maintenance item. I think I clear about $5 profit from each sale, so really not worth my time actually. However, catastrophic pump failures will keep your truck from starting in all temperatures. See picture attached

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I have your kit on the work bench. Thanks for putting them together.
What I am asking is - any known problems from replacing the ACDS with a new OEM part? It's clearly more expensive than the delete option but does retain function. If original part lasted that long, I don't see any harm in replacing the assembly with new.

 

[TurboDennis]

I have your kit on the work bench. Thanks for putting them together.
What I am asking is - any known problems from replacing the ACDS with a new OEM part? It's clearly more expensive than the delete option but does retain function. If original part lasted that long, I don't see any harm in replacing the assembly with new.

If you do decide to keep it, i have a BNIB ACDS i could sell you for $200 all in.