ACSD Delete Question (3 Viewers)

[HillCountryTX]

Thanks @jpsfj60 , again...huge help! Yes, please let me know the length and type of 5mm hex key bolt that would be necessary to attach the backing plate to the IP once the ACSD has been removed. You've been a huge help!!

For those wondering, I bought my o-ring and backing plate from a diesel injection parts store (M&D Distributors, website = https://www.mddistributors.com/) in the Texas area. They've been great to work with and I think the total was just about $30 shipped for both the o-ring and the backing plate. However, it would have been VERY nice to have the kit everyone is mentioning so that I have all the necessary parts together, as I also had to buy 16 inches of 3/8 inch coolant/heater hose, hose clamps, and it looks like I'll need to buy some additional 5mm hex key bolts as well

 

[jpsfj60]

I got my block of plate and O ring from Miller Diesel. Then you need 16in.'s of 3/8 coolant line.
That is all you need to complete this ACSD delete.
I posted the parts numbers for the block of plate and O ring. Your local diesel shop should have these parts in stock!!

 

[HillCountryTX]

I will find out the size and can tell you the length when I get home today. You will need to get new 5mm bolts that are longer cause you don't
have the transmission kick down cable bracket there bolted to the top of the IP.
This job will be easy for you. Take that 12mm nut off the ACSD and then pry the linkage and the 2 springs off. That will give you access to
that 5mm ACSD bolt and the other ACSD 5mm bolt you get to from the going thru the wheel well opening. You will need to remove the plastic splash guard to do this.

Now for the coolant hose removal. Take the top coolant hose off the back of the ACSD. Have a bolt ready to screw into the 3/8 coolant hose to plug it. Now remove the bottom coolant line from the engine block. Have your new hose with clamp ready to put on. You will only loose a pinch of coolant. Now take that top hose off the engine block and complete your loop. I also put a black vacuum nipple on the back of the ACSD so coolant would stop coming out. I also plug that bottom hose I took off 1st so coolant wouldn't flow out on stuff. Now remove ACSD. You should still have the one coolant line on the ACSD that is plugged with a bolt and the nipple on the top where the other line went. Now you can pour
that coolant out and see what it looks like....
Keep me posted on how it goes. Call me if you need to. 717-612-0619 If I lived around you I would come over and do this removal with ya!!

Hey @jpsfj60, do you happen to have the size and length of the 5mm hex key bolts that I would need to attach the backing plate to where the ACSD used to be once it's removed? That's the only piece of the puzzle that I'm missing right now and I can't begin to dig in until I have those 5mm hex key bolts ready to go. Thanks!!

 

[jpsfj60]

Thanks @jpsfj60 , again...huge help! Yes, please let me know the length and type of 5mm hex key bolt that would be necessary to attach the backing plate to the IP once the ACSD has been removed. You've been a huge help!!

For those wondering, I bought my o-ring and backing plate from a diesel injection parts store (M&D Distributors, website = https://www.mddistributors.com/) in the Texas area. They've been great to work with and I think the total was just about $30 shipped for both the o-ring and the backing plate. However, it would have been VERY nice to have the kit everyone is mentioning so that I have all the necessary parts together, as I also had to buy 16 inches of 3/8 inch coolant/heater hose, hose clamps, and it looks like I'll need to buy some additional 5mm hex key bolts as well

Sorry it took so long to do this. I saved one of the 5mm hex head bolts that came out of the ACSD.
The size is M6x1.00. The length you need is 3/8in. long measuring from the very top of the head of the bolt.
That size and length will get that block off plate bolted on with no problems.
Let everyone know how this delete job worked out for you. Get it done!!

 

[HillCountryTX]

The only missing link that I see folks referring to in this thread are the metal "dowels" that @IanB mentions for spacing the throttle linkage out where the ACSD used to be. I only have the following parts: o-ring, backing plate, 16 inches of 3/8 inch coolant hose, 2 clamps, and 2 shorter 6Mx1.0 (3/8 inch long) bolts for attaching the backing plate to the IP. I have a 5-speed manual HDJ81. Do I need these metal "dowels" that @IanB mentions and are supposedly included in Radd Cruiser's kit? Once I have a game plan I will be doing this removal and taking plenty of photos Thanks ya'll!

@jpsfj60...how has the ACSD delete treated you so far? No issues after a couple weeks? Anything that came up afterwards that you weren't expecting?

 

[jpsfj60]

The only missing link that I see folks referring to in this thread are the metal "dowels" that @IanB mentions for spacing the throttle linkage out where the ACSD used to be. I only have the following parts: o-ring, backing plate, 16 inches of 3/8 inch coolant hose, 2 clamps, and 2 shorter 6Mx1.0 (3/8 inch long) bolts for attaching the backing plate to the IP. I have a 5-speed manual HDJ81. Do I need these metal "dowels" that @IanB mentions and are supposedly included in Radd Cruiser's kit? Once I have a game plan I will be doing this removal and taking plenty of photos Thanks ya'll!

@jpsfj60...how has the ACSD delete treated you so far? No issues after a couple weeks? Anything that came up afterwards that you weren't expecting?

Cruiser runs at a lower idle now that this delete has been done. Cruiser idles up when I turn on my AC. I like how she idles now and
runs. I have had no problems with anything since this delete. Just have peace of mind now that I won't be having any metal shavings
going thru my IP since this delete.

HillCountry You don't need those dowels that you are talking about. Even when I talked to Radd Cruisers he didn't say anything about
using them.. If you have the smaller bolts then there is no need for any spacing at the block off plate.

 

[Tapage]

Hello folks ..

I just finally delete my ACSD and now my 1HD-T won't start ..

I put it back and still don't go ..

any ideas ..?

 

[Tapage]

while it was with the backing plate make a couple of attempts ( few segs running rough ) and die ..

I'm now at the point of recharging my batteries to tri it again ACSD on but already give a go and still ain't going .. since I gotta remove the array of brackets and springs to remove it .. took a video of the start process ( ACSD on ) to see if the main rod that goes into the pump was moving and it was't .. but I have no way to know if that move before at the start process .. = if was doing something on my start process while it was there.

I live in 80 - 100F ( around 30C ) Panama so I never thought ACSD was necessary to me ..

 

[IanB]

while it was with the backing plate make a couple of attempts ( few segs running rough ) and die ..

I'm now at the point of recharging my batteries to tri it again ACSD on but already give a go and still ain't going .. since I gotta remove the array of brackets and springs to remove it .. took a video of the start process ( ACSD on ) to see if the main rod that goes into the pump was moving and it was't .. but I have no way to know if that move before at the start process .. = if was doing something on my start process while it was there.

I live in 80 - 100F ( around 30C ) Panama so I never thought ACSD was necessary to me ..

Is it possibly just an air lock in the pump from fuel dripping out while you removed the ACSD? Did you pump the primer before trying to start it?

 

[Tapage]

Didn't update at the time but I went ahead and put it back the backing plate and proceed to bleed every line at the injector .. that was it ..

Start a little rough at first but slowly get back to it normal shape .. so far seems to be all good back again .. I was ready to pull that b**h and set the timing .!

 

[Tapage]

Wanna share these pics here ..

 

[Tapage]

Still not sure how that internal part of the ACSD could affect the timing on the IP since the second pic it's of the access hole of the ACSD and there is nothing in there to make contact with ..

 

[IanB]

Still not sure how that internal part of the ACSD could affect the timing on the IP since the second pic it's of the access hole of the ACSD and there is nothing in there to make contact with ..

I was looking at that as well, if the machined metal bit in the upper view through the hole is close enough to be contacted by the nub on the ACSD depending on it's rotation, that could be the mechanism by which the timing is advanced from base level?

 

[Tapage]

Adding these pics blank plate and o ring

 

[HillCountryTX]

@Tapage this is awesome, thank you! Thanks for sharing those photos of the ACSD delete. I will be doing this sometime in the future and seeing these helps considerably. Do you have any photos of how you did the coolant line bypass? Your last photo shows the ACSD removed, with the blanking plate on, but the ACSD still connected to the coolant lines and dangling there. How much diesel did you lose when you removed the ACSD? A cup? More?

And how difficult were the 5mm hex key allen bolts to remove from the ACSD? Did you soak them in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench? I will also be sure to post my photos here once I do our ACSD removal...thanks!!

 

[remy]

I was looking at that as well, if the machined metal bit in the upper view through the hole is close enough to be contacted by the nub on the ACSD depending on it's rotation, that could be the mechanism by which the timing is advanced from base level?

Yes that's the mechanism. Its like a slot. You can see the lower part of the slot just on the lower side of the hole. It actually rotated the roller plate and so effects timing.

The pump itself is full of diesel, and will be leak out when take the acsd off. Is about a 2 full cups of fuel. It might be 1 american cup as they are bigger

 

[remy]

made a picture of the other side of the hole on a IP housing I had laying around on my desk. The ballpen is where the ACSD is fitted. So the ACSD mechanism rotates the whole roller plate. The rollers are normally fitted into the 4 crossed slots.

 

[Tapage]

@Tapage Do you have any photos of how you did the coolant line bypass?

Nop .. but I'll take this weekend and post ..

How much diesel did you lose when you removed the ACSD? A cup? More?

Plenty .. but it really does not matter how much, coz it's really hard to catch unless you put something directly under the ACSD hole ( which it's complicated given the space you have to work with )

And how difficult were the 5mm hex key allen bolts to remove from the ACSD?

pretty easy to me .. I did throw some kroil but I don't thing was even necessary ..

made a picture of the other side of the hole on a IP housing I had laying around on my desk. The ballpen is where the ACSD is fitted. So the ACSD mechanism rotates the whole roller plate. The rollers are normally fitted into the 4 crossed slots.

how hard it's to rotate the roller plate by hand ?

 

[remy]

how hard it's to rotate the roller plate by hand ?

Easy. But there isn't spring pressure from the roller springs at the pump on the picture. I guess its very hard to turn if the pump is assembled.

 

[Tapage]

Easy. But there isn't spring pressure from the roller springs at the pump on the picture. I guess its very hard to turn if the pump is assembled.

ask coz the spring assembly on the ACSD it's very " stiff " so I guess it must overcome great force in ( roller plate ) or out ( throttle linkage ) which does not seems to be the case ..

And related .. if the ACSD it's not there anymore with the blank plate, what prevents the timing from moving freely ..