accident- body advice, and crumpled dissent. (1 Viewer)

[benc]

Sorry to see jerry but glad everybody is ok!
As for the bumper, I'm not surprised one bit with the outcome, looks like the bumper mainly contacted the hitch on the jeep, that would explain the minimal damage to the body. The bumper is designed to hold up well with low speed hits and collapses in a higher speed collision. Looks as if it did its job to take the brunt of the impact while not damaging the frame. Sure, if the bumper was built from heavier gage steel the bumper would have held up better but likely would total the vehicle and collapse the crumple zones in the frame. Keep in mind these frames are made from 11ga steel, if you bolt on a heavy 1/4" steel bumper your week point will be the frame.
At a high speed collision something has to give, its either the bumper or the frame.

 

[jerryb]

It looks like your passenger side frame horn is bent pretty bad, no? Is the driver's side also bent towards the outside? Is that why the driver's wing of the bumper is bent down? So tough to judge forces involved from after-the-fact pictures, but it "looks" like all the force hit the vertical part of the Dissent, and the center section gave way, allowing the twisting of the frame horn, and pushed the entire bumper to the left a bit? Trying to decide if that's a "good thing" or a "bad thing" in terms of aftermarket bumper performance... Maybe it's just "a thing"...

that's correct. All the force on the passenger rib, straight into the jeep hitch frame. The frame standoff, or horn on the drivers side is bent toward the passenger side. That vertical weld right there took an extremely destructive test and didn't split. When the rib hit her hitch frame I think it walked a little upward, as in, if I had taller tires the LC could have walked right up into her rear hatch. Both of those center vertical channel covers left and right were also bent and took a hammer to remove in the street.
All said and done, the frame horn pieces just slid right off after bolt removal. Frame ends aren't deformed, the boxes are square, parallel, and appear untouched. I did what I could without a laser or serious math work, plus I don't have factory measurements. I'm not too worried.

@benc Thanks Ben. I think it did it's job. I'm pretty sure if I would have had the plastic toyota bumper on there there would easily be another couple thousand dollars of fixing involved. For that, I'm grateful. Thank you for your bumper.

 

[Live to Ski]

Agree with benc: an unengineered stronger bumper would have probably totalled the frame. Either way, glad all walked away!

Always toyed with the idea of designing bumpers around stiff rubber mounts in shear mode (could be issue w. modal frequency responses). Or using plain old railroad ties as the main ingredient.......maybe in another life

 

[jerryb]

I ended up with
new toyota fender 537$ -paint for that and the headlight lower trim metal pieces for $327
New tjm 17 $799
partsouq metal pieces, the long horizontal piece behind the bumper, the center stand off right below the hood latch, the two fender stand offs, new bushings for same, screws and bolts for same, rivets for the long trim piece, and the lower headlight eyebrow pieces, $345

I swear buying parts from partsouq is amazing. They package stuff up like it's traveling to the moon. That's the second time I've ordered long, bendable metal parts from them.
yet another depo light set $245 amazon.
About 2250$ or so total.
I don't have the bumper yet. I see their (tjm) instructions about bolting up to the end cap on the frame, the same end cap you grind off if you have a dissent. I don't know how I'm going to deal with that yet. An expensive lesson.

 

[ibrahim83]

I ended up with
new toyota fender 537$ -paint for that and the headlight lower trim metal pieces for $327
New tjm 17 $799
partsouq metal pieces, the long horizontal piece behind the bumper, the center stand off right below the hood latch, the two fender stand offs, new bushings for same, screws and bolts for same, rivets for the long trim piece, and the lower headlight eyebrow pieces, $345

I swear buying parts from partsouq is amazing. They package stuff up like it's traveling to the moon. That's the second time I've ordered long, bendable metal parts from them.
yet another depo light set $245 amazon.
About 2250$ or so total.
I don't have the bumper yet. I see their (tjm) instructions about bolting up to the end cap on the frame, the same end cap you grind off if you have a dissent. I don't know how I'm going to deal with that yet. An expensive lesson.

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Looking good!
If you don't mind me asking. Did insurance cut you a check for repairs or did they total it and offered you to buy it back?

 

[jerryb]

Huh? It's a 2300 repair bill. That was it. Progressive wants to total the other car, the Jeep. Mine is fine. I don't carry collision on cheap cars.

 

[jerryb]

It's the simple things.

 

[sje1124]

@jerryb sorry to see this. What part of St. Tammany did this happen in? I live in Mandeville. Glad your getting everything back together again.

 

[jerryb]

I 12 going west, first Mandeville exit. If I didn't spend the extra second eyeing the white audi s7 screaming away from the light to my left it wouldn't have happened.

 

[sje1124]

I live 5 minutes south of there by the lake. I caught my self eyeing a car in BR last year and rear ended a Q56. totaled my car but did no damage to his.

 

[bodywhomper]

bumping semi-relevant thread.

spun the stock 100-series into a snowbank recently. lights, bumper, grill and hood latch and support are main damage. passenger fender was a little damaged, too. engine bay was fine. I drove it home post accident. i have the quote from a body shop via insurance, and i'm weighing options related to stock bumper, aftermarket bumpers, and possibly cancelling the claim to preserve my driving record and looking for inexpensive methods of repair. the body shop came recommended by a neighbor/friend and i think the body shop is willing to work with me either through the insurance or cheaper route w/o insurance. we want the truck functional and safe. if i cancel the claim, i'd want to go a cheapish route to repair; however, i'm wondering if this would not have been an issue if i had aftermarket bumper. I'm not totally clear on the range of options of bumpers and how that plays into removing items from the quote that i received. for my wife and i, this is mostly about $$ and getting a functional and safe vehicle back. none of our vehicles are particularly pretty. they all live outside, we live and drive on dirt and gravel roads often. we also can't wait for months to get a new bumper. i live in the neighborhood of dissent and 4x4lab. i know dissent owner spends time on this forum (and this thread), he likely knows my neighbor, my mechanic, and the body shop where the truck's sitting. last thing, installation of a new bumper would not be a DIY thing for me right now. we can't use my garage, it's winter, and I don't have the time to do it at a friend's place. i'll likely be using the body shop for any of the work. sorry for the rambling. appreciate any advise and guidance.

 

[jLB]

bumping semi-relevant thread.

spun the stock 100-series into a snowbank recently. lights, bumper, grill and hood latch and support are main damage. passenger fender was a little damaged, too. engine bay was fine. I drove it home post accident. i have the quote from a body shop via insurance, and i'm weighing options related to stock bumper, aftermarket bumpers, and possibly cancelling the claim to preserve my driving record and looking for inexpensive methods of repair. the body shop came recommended by a neighbor/friend and i think the body shop is willing to work with me either through the insurance or cheaper route w/o insurance. we want the truck functional and safe. if i cancel the claim, i'd want to go a cheapish route to repair; however, i'm wondering if this would not have been an issue if i had aftermarket bumper. I'm not totally clear on the range of options of bumpers and how that plays into removing items from the quote that i received. for my wife and i, this is mostly about $$ and getting a functional and safe vehicle back. none of our vehicles are particularly pretty. they all live outside, we live and drive on dirt and gravel roads often. we also can't wait for months to get a new bumper. i live in the neighborhood of dissent and 4x4lab. i know dissent owner spends time on this forum (and this thread), he likely knows my neighbor, my mechanic, and the body shop where the truck's sitting. last thing, installation of a new bumper would not be a DIY thing for me right now. we can't use my garage, it's winter, and I don't have the time to do it at a friend's place. i'll likely be using the body shop for any of the work. sorry for the rambling. appreciate any advise and guidance.

If I'm not mistaken, both Dissent and 4x4labs are "built to order". If you're trying to get your vehicle put back together in any kind of hurry, TJM, Slee or ARB might be a quicker route.

When we purchased my son's ARB from 4WP, we did have to pay sales tax, but there was no shipping cost, it arrived at our local store in less than 24 hours.

I prefer the looks of the Dissent, TJM T17, and Slee Blueberry bumpers, but I was pretty impressed with how my son's ARB took a hit over the summer:

What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

Tough Dogs went in this week - 53mm fronts and 45mm adjustable rears. The cruiser sits so much better now. Haven't had a chance to wheel it yet but on road it feels firmly planted, especially during turns. The ride is noticeably firmer but then again I only had 20 year old springs and shocks to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[LBeckons]

Someone else asked but I might have missed the response, did your airbags not go off? Also, how did the TJM bumper end up fitting after wards?

 

[hoser]

@bodywhomper If you are paying somebody to do the labor, it won't be a cheap repair. You can save some money by supplying used parts but in the end you'll still be $$$ in to it. I think you should just go with the insurance claim. Once they agree with the quote, have the bodyshop substitute the OEM bumper for an aftermarket bumper that is "off the shelf." Subtract all other parts that aren't needed i.e. bumper support. Your out of pocket expense might be zero (not including your collision deductible).

 

[bodywhomper]

thanks for the info and advice.

This is my first time dealing with auto insurance where somebody didn't hit me. it's a learning experience, that hopefully is not too expensive. i'll definitely go about it another way if there is a next time....

@hoser, what is an example of an "off the shelf" bumper? i have the claim/quote in hand ($6.7k) and have not authorized the work.

i'm trying to find out from my insurance info about surcharge, surcharge schedule, etc. to know bottomline to make a decision. Anybody know if there's a way to figure this out myself?

cheers

@bodywhomper If you are paying somebody to do the labor, it won't be a cheap repair. You can save some money by supplying used parts but in the end you'll still be $$$ in to it. I think you should just go with the insurance claim. Once they agree with the quote, have the bodyshop substitute the OEM bumper for an aftermarket bumper that is "off the shelf." Subtract all other parts that aren't needed i.e. bumper support. Your out of pocket expense might be zero (not including your collision deductible).

 

[hoser]

You didn't say whether your insurance company has approved the $6.7k. It is quite high and I'd say your insurance company is very close to "totaling out" your 100 if it is a 98-02. If they do total it out, they will pay you "market value" plus tax in order for you to buy another one of similar value. Some companies and/or states allow you to buy the vehicle back at salvage value.... which, my best guess would be about $2500, give or take. But once totaled, the vehicle will usually have a "salvaged title" and that has issues on its own.

"Off the shelf" would be one that is in stock.... TJM, ARB, Slee, etc. Bumpers like 4x4labs and Dissent usually have s lead time of about 2 months give or take.

 

[bodywhomper]

You didn't say whether your insurance company has approved the $6.7k. It is quite high and I'd say your insurance company is very close to "totaling out" your 100 if it is a 98-02. If they do total it out, they will pay you "market value" plus tax in order for you to buy another one of similar value. Some companies and/or states allow you to buy the vehicle back at salvage value.... which, my best guess would be about $2500, give or take. But once totaled, the vehicle will usually have a "salvaged title" and that has issues on its own.

"Off the shelf" would be one that is in stock.... TJM, ARB, Slee, etc. Bumpers like 4x4labs and Dissent usually have s lead time of about 2 months give or take.

Thanks for the response. it's a 99 model year. insurance approved the $6.7k estimate and will not total it. it's crazy high! a lot of cost is paint stuff (like $1.5k!) - kinda a racket. i told the adjuster and independently told the body shop that i'd prefer if they didn't total the truck. if i cancel the claim and pay out of pocket, i wouldn't pay nearly as much. i'd minimize the work, not replace as much s*** (e.g. the new fenders are not necessary), and buy cheaper stuff off car-parts.com (do not need $378 headlight assembly). the body shop will work with me. thanks for the details about "off the shelf."

 

[skivan]

Thanks for the response. it's a 99 model year. insurance approved the $6.7k estimate and will not total it. it's crazy high! a lot of cost is paint stuff (like $1.5k!) - kinda a racket. i told the adjuster and independently told the body shop that i'd prefer if they didn't total the truck. if i cancel the claim and pay out of pocket, i wouldn't pay nearly as much. i'd minimize the work, not replace as much s*** (e.g. the new fenders are not necessary), and buy cheaper stuff off car-parts.com (do not need $378 headlight assembly). the body shop will work with me. thanks for the details about "off the shelf."

pm'ed you. curious how this worked out or what you ended up doing.