Ac Fyi (1 Viewer)

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The compressor doesn't stop working the air just becomes warm.

I agree that there is an airflow issue, I just think there is a problem causing the consensor to heat up.

It may be possible when the po's mechanic replaced the radiator they left dirt or something on the condensor. I think I'll pull the radiator and look.
 
Well, airflow is not the issue, I just took a short trip to the store and the AC is blowing warm.

GRRRRRRRRRRRR.
 
I had the problems you are having, and just got them fixed. If you buy a can of r134 that has a guage ~15 bucks, you will be able to test the pressure on the low side. If you test it when it is blowing cold, and it has good pressure, but them when it is blowing warm, it loses pressure, you likely have a sticky expansion valve. FWIW it worked for me. I had a shop do the work with parts from CruiserDan and it was less than 400 bucks total for the AC dryer R&R, Exp Valve R&R, and test and charge the AC system.

Without a set of manifold guages to test the high side with, there really isn't much anybody here can do for you. I've tried, and got the same results...

Good luck,
Dan
 
Thanks for the info. I HATE EXPANSION VALVES!!!!!!!

I just went through this with my BMW. After a front end collision the system was opened and when put back together worked for a day. An expansion later all was well.

Thanks again.
 
OK - any reason to draw a coorolation between the Seafoam use and the AC pain? I don't see it offhand, but we have a '94 w/ a high idle extended time when cold / fine when warm issue and I was just clued in to the Seafoam thing this week as a first step in the cure before pulling the large easy to crack hose and scrubbing the deposits from the butterfly valve... was going to do it this weekend or next...
 
My A/C is killing me too, the compressor never dissengange (turn off), warm air at iddle speed, new compressor, new filter, new valve, gas its ok, the only thing I notice thats not working fine its the solenoid that open the circuit for the cooler inside the cab, I think thats always open so the refrigerator its always working or maybe the a/c electronic control unit thats not working wright so the sensor does not send the signal to the compressor to be turned off?. Too many questions, but I´m not sure whats the problem, any help welcome.

Claudio Buffardi
Caracas, Venezuela
 
My final AC chapter is new expansion valve, new receiver dryer system purge/refill heater core cleaning (was very full of bugs/lint/god knows what. Now the air blows sub 0 and remains cold at idle. total cost 421.93.
 
I had similar AC problems on my 93 with R12... The problem is your expansion valve... while your at it put a new dryer on. I did this and put r134 back in it... works fine. The r12 would be a couple degrees cooler but since you can't mix the two I can get the r134 at any parts store... you have to get into the grey market to find r12 sources.....


Kevin
 
you have to get into the grey market to find r12 sources

This is what nearly everyone seems to think, but it's not true.

Getting certified to legally purchase and use r12 can be done inexpensively and quickly (two hours or so) online. I did it myself this last summer. Then I went to ebay and bought my r12 for around $30 per can "buy it now" from an "ebay store" that always has it in stock.

I'm glad you're happy with how you fixed yours; I'm definitely happy with the route I took.

Curtis

Edit: Just for giggles, I went and checked ebay. Predictably, with the cooler weather, "buy it now" is down to $24.50. It's a commodity, just like anything else. Not unobtanium, and probably not a situation where demand will outstrip supply. Just good old market forces at work.
 
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