ABS Booster MC Module Replace: Reprogram Required after install? What did you pay at Local Shop ? at Dealer? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 14, 2017
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Washington dc (the swamp)
My 2003 LC is at the local shop now .... bit my nails driving it 5 blocks w/ no brakes. Now they want an answer to their quote.

-Total brake failure at 131k . ( equipped with traction control vsc , stock no mods. never off road)

- I read alot here and opted for Complete unit with MC
ordered rebuilt from ENET parts off ebay

- part arrived and I expected the install at local shop to be straight forward. They had a guy there that has fair amount of land cruiser experience.



Shop called and quote was alot higher than I expected.

I expected : swap out ABS module , plus cost to replace brake fluid ... pump the pedal 40 times etc , and bleed brakes.

New to me .... was shop owner says the swap may/will require a reprogramming ? "Its a whole procedure"

Two questions:

A. If anyone has had the abs module (whole unit ) installed , what did you pay ?

{ $ amount out the door } ? ( Based on XX shop hours if its on your bill / you know ) ? { done at dealer or at local shop ) ?




B. Reprogramming required ? reprogram what , exactly .... the abs controller?




The thought of towing it around for a competing quote is a bit unappealing. Although depending on cost i may tow to dealer .

I'm also at risk that the rebuilt unit from ENET doesn't work ....... happened to my neighbor ( on 2003 his LX, ) and in that case any shop is going to make you pay for the second install . )
 
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We need a recall initiated for this. It's getting ridiculous how many brake failures are occuring. Someone on this board has to have a connection or experience in getting this ball rolling.
 
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Aug 11, 2013
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I did mine for a 2001. No reprogramming needed. You have to use the scan tool to clear any faults and to bleed the brakes.
 
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No reprogramming needed on my 2006. Took me about 3 hours total to DIY. Used techstream to do the final bleed.
 
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Joined
Jul 14, 2017
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Washington dc (the swamp)
No reprogramming needed on my 2006. Took me about 3 hours total to DIY. Used techstream to do the final bleed.

thanks for the replies ...... I'm learning more now... appently what my local shop was referring to is The scan tool calibrated bleed procedure.... dealer tech calls it a "computer bleed" .....


So anyone have know what there local shop or dealer uses to quote the price of the swap out ?

One dealer I called quoted a price based on 4 hours labor, another dealer based on 6 hours, both quotes include the computer aided bleed procedure.

The reason why it matters is because , since i'm taking a gamble that the rebuilt gets installed , and doesnt work , in that case , i'll be returning it and paying for a second install. Fingers crossed that Enet rebuilt works .... but since my neighbor had a bad one that had to be returned , also at my local shop , they are making it clear that they cant warranty the work with my rebuilt , and be prepared for a second round .... 7 hrs , including the scan tool bleed procedure, if I got a bad one .
 
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Connecticut
Not sure of your skill level but you could buy a computer, cable, and line wrenches for less than 4 hours labor you’re about to pay and complete all of this on your own. Then if the rebuild didn’t work you’re not out double.
 

abuck99

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Paying 4-6 hrs of labor to install a questionable rebuilt unit is a gamble at best. You could anticipate it failing and paying to do it again.

I would buy a complete NEW unit and return the “rebuilt” - as the key fail components aren’t really “rebuildable” ( its a waste of money).

The complete assembly( master-abs unit-booster) can be purchased through participating dealers this week from Friday to Sunday with a BF deal that adds an additional 15% off- that makes the total discount price close to 45% off at participating dealers with Free shipping! Be patient, do some more homework and shop around for the assy. 4 hours retail labor is prob in the ball park-( some experienced techs can do it in less than 1/2 that time- but that’s their bonus for experience) labor+ fluid and shop disposal fees.

If you opt for a New master assy- use only Toyota Dot3 fluid. Order a dozen bottles when you order your master.
 

hoser

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Shops used labor guides to give estimates (Chilton, Mitchell, All-Data etc). M/C assembly R&R including bleeding comes in a 1.4hrs from All-data. Shops often have a surcharge for shop supplies and whatever else.

@abuck99 I wonder what the dealer uses for brake fluid. Do they really bust out the little Toyota bottles. I asked my Toyota parts guy and he said they don't come anything larger.
 

abuck99

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Shops used labor guides to give estimates (Chilton, Mitchell, All-Data etc). M/C assembly R&R including bleeding comes in a 1.4hrs from All-data. Shops often have a surcharge for shop supplies and whatever else.

@abuck99 I wonder what the dealer uses for brake fluid. Do they really bust out the little Toyota bottles. I asked my Toyota parts guy and he said they don't come anything larger.
Not to go too far off track to get into a brake fluid discussion- but to answer your question: I doubt dealer actually use Toyota fluid- they probably use whatever cheap DOT3 or DOT4 that comes in bulk jugs from worldpac or similar distributor (IDK) along with all the other corners they cut. Not all DOT 3 are equal in additives, longevity and performance. What I do know is that the Toyota DOT3 is its own special blend- and in a new master assy. that is what (I )would flush with and use in the brake circuit.
 

87warrior

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I replaced the whole assembly on my 1999 and there was no programming necessary. The swap is easy and bleeding is kind of annoying. However activating the ABS module is a lot of fun on dirt roads. Don't forget to bleed the brakes, again, after activating ABS.
 
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I replaced the whole assembly on my 1999 and there was no programming necessary. The swap is easy and bleeding is kind of annoying. However activating the ABS module is a lot of fun on dirt roads. Don't forget to bleed the brakes, again, after activating ABS.
Same here:

I replaced an entire assembly on my 2000 and was very easy. NEVER used any fancy tools

Once all mount and tight

Step-1
Bled all 4 at the master cylinder: Results: Rear two will spray with ignition on + foot on brake, Front two just drip, BUT it is NORMAL: A guy in Moldova said front will bleed on its own.

Step-2: Ignition on Foot on brake: Bleed rear calipers (rapid flow of fluid) DON'T run too long as it can empty the reservoir

Step-3: Tried bleeding the front at calipers and SAME.. just drips. You'll have decent brakes but I felt the brakes can be better.To bleed the front, you have to activate the ABS pump: Drive on a loose gravel or dirt road and apply brakes (MAKE SURE NO ONE IS BEHIND) to lock up the wheels. You will feel ABS is turning on by pulsation on brake paddle. Do it few more times (I did about 10). That's it! Brakes are back to normal. I didn't bleed the brakes after activating the ABS.

I used DOT-3 Prestone brake fluid.

Hope this helps.

My thread to this repair is here:
 
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