ABS booster acting up

[Usterzai]

I had brake fluid above the MAX line so followed the instructions on the MC to bring it to level but for some reason the pedal would not drop to the floor. So I stopped and drove after that with no issues but in the morning my brake felt soft on 1st pedal.
I kinda panicked due to the price associated with the repair. Any ways I got fluid and followed the FAQ to bleed the brakes.
The pedal went to the floor in 20 this time and I corrected the fluid level and also bled the brakes but now the pump will not turn on when I put the key in ignition. It will turn on if I press the pedal couple of times. If I keep on pressing the pedal couple of more times the ABS light will start beeping and will go off once the pump is on and brings the pressure back.
The Pedal also went to the floor when I pressed hard on the brakes while on a test drive.
At not time did I let the reservoir go below MIN level. Is there air in the MC or the booster should I take it to Toyota/Lexus for bleed?
Thank You
Hopefully it is nothing big.

 

[2001LC]

Test: depress brake pedal 40 times,with key out of IG switch. Place key in IG switch and turn to ON. Time how long booster motor runs. Target/spec is 30 to 40 seconds. Over 40 sec book (FSM) states re bleed. But usually indicate a leak. If over 40 sec check all bleeders for leaks/weeping. Bleeders need to be clean of oil and dry before checking for leaks.

 

[Usterzai]

Test: depress brake pedal 40 times,with key out of IG switch. Place key in IG switch and turn to ON. Time how long booster motor runs. Target/spec is 30 to 40 seconds. Over 40 sec book (FSM) states re bleed. But usually indicate a leak. If over 40 sec check all bleeders for leaks/weeping. Bleeders need to be clean of oil and dry before checking for leaks.

Thank You, I will try that tomorrow morning before going to work.

 

[Usterzai]

Test: depress brake pedal 40 times,with key out of IG switch. Place key in IG switch and turn to ON. Time how long booster motor runs. Target/spec is 30 to 40 seconds. Over 40 sec book (FSM) states re bleed. But usually indicate a leak. If over 40 sec check all bleeders for leaks/weeping. Bleeders need to be clean of oil and dry before checking for leaks.

I checked today after pumping till the pedal dropped and then switched the ign on, the booster motor ran for 30 secs. So now that I do not have the leak maybe the brakes are just like that a little soft on 1st pedal and then gets more firm on the second.

 

[bentonrover]

My brake where great until I did this test. Pump ran to 31 seconds. Now its soft on 1st braking better there afterwards. Fluid is fine. Dont know what to think

 

[2001LC]

Does the test run consistently at ~31 seconds or thereabouts. Then likely master needs rebuilding (kit). Kit is cheap, just labor to pull master and then bleed is time consuming.

If time runs over 40 seconds. Can be air, leak, flex line with bubble or a caliper seal weep..

If booster motor runs, and never longer than 40 seconds. Than booster assembly likely okay.

Make sure to check for and DTC (codes) pending or active in tech stream.

 

[bentonrover]

It started after I put the shims back on front pads 2 days ago. So went back and double check. Pass side guide pins (both) was sticking on the outer clip that holds the shims to the pads. Probably bad description of it. I literally needed pliers to move it. Took everything back off. Lubricate the back of pads put back on. All set now. Gonna reorder the kit. These have 164k on them anyway. It seem to be holding up the pads when initially braking. Thanks

 

[2001LC]

Pictures?

Shims in front go in one way. They have small and large clips that stick out to fit corresponding pistons. I don't "think" this would give a first pump of pedal, a bad feel. Also the pins that the pads slide on, get grooved over time. Replace them!

Note: whenever I replace pad I have rotor machine turn or replace them. Then I bed (three times) new pads to new rotor disk surface.

 

[bentonrover]

I replaced with oem pads and rotors in August. Didn't put them back on then. Looked worn and decided to keep off. Was getting alittle squeal/clacking noise recently. Drove beautiful except for that little squeal. Then that's when I decided to put back on. Yeah just drove another 20 mins again. Long story short when putting them in I couldn't get it to line up. Of course it starts to rain and a hammer and punch is what I used to drive the pin through the pads and shim set. Driver side was beautiful. Stupid dumb judgement. The guide pin was even gouged some.

 

[2001LC]

I see this often. It happens when not orient correctly.
New set are pricey.