Aaron's 1991 land cruiser 270k (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
60
Location
Portland
Hello everyone,

Just picked up a '91 land cruiser from the 3rd owner. I plan on using it as a daily to replace my 1999 Wrangler, and for camping, hiking, and hunting trips. I've got a big stack of records from the first owner, but nothing from the 2nd / 3rd. I'd like to use this thread as a place to record issues, solutions, and get advice.

She's pretty clean and the first owner maintained it, according to the records, at the dealer up into 220k. Not many records from 220k - 270k where she's at now. So I'm going to treat it like nothing was done and try to get on top of some maitainace. I've got access to a farm shop and am pretty handy so I'm thinking I'll just get at it, but there seems to be a pretty reputable land cruiser shop (Landcruiser NW) near me that I'm thinking about stopping in and getting an inspection to see if there is something that immediately needs to be addressed.

A few problems that I know need to be fixed:
  • It has a check engine light, and I used a paper clip to check and it's throwing a error 28 (potentially could be a 2 and a 8). It has a bit of an exhaust leak so I'm thinking the o2 sensor makes sense. I ordered both new denso o2 sensors (from what I can tell denso made the originals?) To fix the code and hopefully the exhaust leak otherwise I think I'll be throwing in a new y-pipe / cats. Magnaflow seems to be popular. I need to research this more. I purchased in Washington so I need to get this cleared and passing smog before I can license in Oregon. So this is my highest priority.
  • I'm not convinced the center diff is locking. The button lights up, but I don't feel / hear anything engaging and the dash light doesn't turn on. I haven't had time yet to actually test if it's locking, but I'm pretty confident it's not.
  • Exhaust leak somewhere.
    FIXED: missing bolt on the manifold to down pipe connection.
  • Oil pan is pretty dirty. I need to clean it up and crawl under for a better inspection.
  • Brake light is always on, and the brakes are not great. They are pretty soft and spongey. I'm not sure if this is just how the brakes are or because of the oversized tires / low fluid / not bled. I'm assuming the light is indicating a problem.
    FIXED: low brake fluid
  • Flickering dash / instrument lights. PO wired up some LED lights on the bumper and it looks like the crimped connection to the ground is failing. I crimped it down a little more and it made the flickering better, but it's still broken and bumps start it up again. Hopefully just replacing that connection fixed the flickering.
  • High fan speed doesn't work or is very slow.
  • The 3rd row map light is missing the switch to engage the lights on / off / door. Middle and front function normally.
  • Rear tailgate door struts fail to lift and hold open the door. Ordered some cheapy struts of eBay. We'll see how they hold up, but I already banged my head twice.
  • The tail gate itself is a little stiff to drop. Probably need to clean and oil it up.
  • Driver's seat has a tear. I want to get that reupholstered and then get some seat covers. Also on the search for rubber 2nd row and cargo floor mats.
  • Clear coat is gone on the roof / hood starting to go on the doors. Hoping to sand it down and put a new clear coat on.

I took a few photos, but will upload more later.

-aaron

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Looks like fun, from a fellow 91 owner. Good looking rig! They may be slow, but they are perfect on forest roads and camping trips.
It would be good to get an inspection from a good shop. Most maintenance is pretty straightforward and it sounds like you are on it.
I think the brake light means low fluid. Check that first. If you don't have a factory service manual (FSM) get one. Bleed, bleed, and re-bleed those brakes. They may never be great, but they should be a lot better than what you describe.
Just scrape the crusty plastic off the parking brake handle back to hard smooth plastic for a quick, feel good fix.
I used the SOR seat bottom foam/cover on my driver's seat. I used OEM foam on the passenger seat bottom as the cover was okay. But, the factory seats suck IMHO and I'll eventually upgrade mine to something more supportive.

Enjoy your new-to-you 80!
 
1. Get yourself a Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM/EWD). This will save you time/money in the long run.
2. The BRAKE lamp on the dash is for fluid level only. If the fluid level is good, then it's possible the level sensor in the cap is bad. With the BRAKE light illuminated, the cruise control will not work.
3. Front calipers can be rebuilt using the OEM rebuild kit. However, if you feel that they are too far gone, they can be replaced with rebuilds.
4. Brake fluid should be water clear. The darker it gets, the more contaminated it is.
5. Regular use of the hand brake will keep the rear brake shoes in proper adjustment. However, you will need to manually adjust them to get them in the ballpark if they haven't been adjusted in years.

Here is a link for general tune up information:
 
FSM should be here in a couple days, one of the first things I did after paging through the Chilton that came with it.
Brake fluid is dirty, black, and low. I topped it off with some dot3, and that shut off the brake light. I took it for a test drive and I couldn't quite lock up the tires, but it's much better. I'll pick up some more fluid and do a full flush and bleed when I change out the oil.

Nice tip on the handle. I scrapped it just a little bit and it looks like that will clean up nicely.
 
Hello everyone,

Just picked up a '91 land cruiser from the 3rd owner. I plan on using it as a daily to replace my 1999 Wrangler, and for camping, hiking, and hunting trips. I've got a big stack of records from the first owner, but nothing from the 2nd / 3rd. I'd like to use this thread as a place to record issues, solutions, and get advice.

She's pretty clean and the first owner maintained it, according to the records, at the dealer up into 220k. Not many records from 220k - 270k where she's at now. So I'm going to treat it like nothing was done and try to get on top of some maitainace. I've got access to a farm shop and am pretty handy so I'm thinking I'll just get at it, but there seems to be a pretty reputable land cruiser shop (Landcruiser NW) near me that I'm thinking about stopping in and getting an inspection to see if there is something that immediately needs to be addressed.

A few problems that I know need to be fixed:
  • It has a check engine light, and I used a paper clip to check and it's throwing a error 28 (potentially could be a 2 and a 8). It has a bit of an exhaust leak so I'm thinking the o2 sensor makes sense. I ordered both new denso o2 sensors (from what I can tell denso made the originals?) To fix the code and hopefully the exhaust leak otherwise I think I'll be throwing in a new y-pipe / cats. Magnaflow seems to be popular. I need to research this more. I purchased in Washington so I need to get this cleared and passing smog before I can license in Oregon. So this is my highest priority.
  • I'm not convinced the center diff is locking. The button lights up, but I don't feel / hear anything engaging and the dash light doesn't turn on. I haven't had time yet to actually test if it's locking, but I'm pretty confident it's not.
  • Looks like there is a bit of a leak somewhere. Oil pan is pretty dirty. I need to clean it up and crawl under for a better inspection.
  • Brake light is always on, and the brakes are not great. They are pretty soft and spongey. I'm not sure if this is just how the brakes are or because of the oversized tires / low fluid / not bled. I'm assuming the light is indicating a problem.
  • Flickering dash / instrument lights. PO wired up some LED lights on the bumper and it looks like the crimped connection to the ground is failing. I crimped it down a little more and it made the flickering better, but it's still broken and bumps start it up again. Hopefully just replacing that connection fixed the flickering.
  • High fan speed doesn't work or is very slow.
  • The 3rd row map light is missing the switch to engage the lights on / off / door. Middle and front function normally.
  • Rear tailgate door struts fail to lift and hold open the door. Ordered some cheapy struts of eBay. We'll see how they hold up, but I already banged my head twice.
  • The tail gate itself is a little stiff to drop. Probably need to clean and oil it up.
  • Driver's seat has a tear. I want to get that reupholstered and then get some seat covers. Also on the search for rubber 2nd row and cargo floor mats.
  • Clear coat is gone on the roof / hood starting to go on the doors. Hoping to sand it down and put a new clear coat on.

I took a few photos, but will upload more later.

-aaron

View attachment 2166201

View attachment 2166203

View attachment 2166206
Looks familiar (my 92, below)! As far as oil leaks - side cover gasket, distr. o ring, and oil pan gasket are frequent offenders on the 3fe. Fixing the first two helped me, but hoping the last will eliminate my leaks ( getting it replaced this week).

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That's a clean looking rig, Rex! I wish my paint was that nice.

I had about an hour of time today to get my cruiser in the shop. So I picked up some oil and a filter to do a change. I decided to go with a 15-40 because I saw a few people recommend it. I grabbed a wix filter (51515) and the generic house brand oil. I went with the cheapo oil because I didn't know how long it has been since the last change and I want to change this oil out to something better after a few hundred miles to kind of act as a cleanse. Not sure if that's good logic or not, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.

Easy enough job except the oil filter gave me a hard time so I had to try a few oil filter wrenches before I found one that worked for me. The nylon strap wrench that uses a socket wrench worked well with 8inch extension. I guess I'm used to having tons of space from working on the 4cyl wrangler.

While I was idling and warming up the oil / checking for leaks, I decided to trace down the exhaust leak. I was hoping it was from the blown o2 sensor, but it sounded like it was coming from up closer to the engine. Turns out the left down pipe was missing a nut to the manifold bolt and was a little loose. If I push on the exhaust pipe at all I can hear the familiar pinging noise. I looked around for a nut and it seems like an M10 threads on pretty well. I tightened it up and the pinging noise and exhaust leak disappeared. Anyone know what the proper nut is for the manifold / down pipe connection? The one nut that hasn't fallen off looked to be an imperial "farm" nut that someone just threw on.

Sounds much better now and it feels like I have a tiny bit more power. Maybe it is just because it is less loud.
 
That's a clean looking rig, Rex! I wish my paint was that nice.

I had about an hour of time today to get my cruiser in the shop. So I picked up some oil and a filter to do a change. I decided to go with a 15-40 because I saw a few people recommend it. I grabbed a wix filter (51515) and the generic house brand oil. I went with the cheapo oil because I didn't know how long it has been since the last change and I want to change this oil out to something better after a few hundred miles to kind of act as a cleanse. Not sure if that's good logic or not, but I figured it wouldn't hurt.

Easy enough job except the oil filter gave me a hard time so I had to try a few oil filter wrenches before I found one that worked for me. The nylon strap wrench that uses a socket wrench worked well with 8inch extension. I guess I'm used to having tons of space from working on the 4cyl wrangler.

While I was idling and warming up the oil / checking for leaks, I decided to trace down the exhaust leak. I was hoping it was from the blown o2 sensor, but it sounded like it was coming from up closer to the engine. Turns out the left down pipe was missing a nut to the manifold bolt and was a little loose. If I push on the exhaust pipe at all I can hear the familiar pinging noise. I looked around for a nut and it seems like an M10 threads on pretty well. I tightened it up and the pinging noise and exhaust leak disappeared. Anyone know what the proper nut is for the manifold / down pipe connection? The one nut that hasn't fallen off looked to be an imperial "farm" nut that someone just threw on.

Sounds much better now and it feels like I have a tiny bit more power. Maybe it is just because it is less loud.

Please do not use the Wix oil filter!

I used to be a fan of them, however, there are about 10 documented cases of the Wix or re-branded oil filter that has had an internal valve problem and it starved the engine of oil.

Go with the Toyota filters for your engine! They are only one or two dollars more than the parts store.

 
If your brake fluid is low u probably have a leak. Check the proportioning valve, they leak when old.
Not necessarily.

While it's good to check for leaks, it may be as simple as the pads have worn to the point that the pistons have taken the additional volume of fluid from the reservoir and it just needs topped off. He will need to remember that when it's time to change pads, he will need to siphon off some fluid BEFORE squeezing he calipers back or he will have an overflow problem and spill brake fluid into the engine compartment, which will eat paint.
 
Not necessarily.

While it's good to check for leaks, it may be as simple as the pads have worn to the point that the pistons have taken the additional volume of fluid from the reservoir and it just needs topped off. He will need to remember that when it's time to change pads, he will need to siphon off some fluid BEFORE squeezing he calipers back or he will have an overflow problem and spill brake fluid into the engine compartment, which will eat paint.
Ya but if the fluid was topped off initially then even with worn brakes it shouldnt run so low that the master pistons are starved of fluid. But I suppose if someone never topped off the fluid after a bleed or flush I guess it could just need topped off.
 
Ya but if the fluid was topped off initially then even with worn brakes it shouldnt run so low that the master pistons are starved of fluid. But I suppose if someone never topped off the fluid after a bleed or flush I guess it could just need topped off.
I went through did a complete overhaul on my brakes, new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, the works. As the front pads ore enough, the brake light came on the dash because the fluid was low after 55K miles because my front pads had worn enough that the level dropped. This is done intentionally so that it is a pre-indicator, even before the squealers touch to start looking into your braking system.

I had no leaks. New pads and rotors and I was back up and going! Yes, I got 55K out of my FRONT pads!
 
Took a look at my brakes today.
The front pads seem good at ~7mm. The rear brakes drums are definitely ready to be changed. I didn't find a brake leak anywhere, but the rear left axle is leaking. Leaked pretty good onto the left brake which couldn't help the stopping power. Looks like I need to add rear axle rebuild + brake job to my list.
 
I’m also a fellow ‘91 owner.
I used Maxpow struts to replace my rear door and hood struts. They’re fairly cheap on Amazon, and work great! For anyone looking..

+1 on the oil pan gasket. I had a decent leak and thought it was the main seal, but ended up just being the oil pan. I’d also suggest checking coolant/radiator and power steering pump/fluid, those a typical problem points. Axel knuckles and wheel bearings are common too, had to get my front axel done recently.I didn’t trust myself to do it 😅
Also check the belts, I immediately replaced mine after purchase because they were worn and slipping occasionally, plus the previous owner had replaced the radiator but spilt coolant on them.
I’d also be curious about your fuel filter, some members have reported the filters had never been changed by previous owners. It’s on my to-do list as well.
 
I’d also be curious about your fuel filter, some members have reported the filters had never been changed by previous owners. It’s on my to-do list as well.
The in line fuel filter lives on the inside of the frame rail below the distributor on the 3FE 80 Series and is easy to change.
What is a bit more of a PITA is changing the in tank fuel pump pre-filter. That is one of those 100K mile items. If it hasn't been done in the last 29 years, it is way past due.
There is a fuel pump access panel under the carpet between the second row seats.


OEM in line fuel filter: 23300-69035
Fuel filter crush washers for banjo bolts: 90430-12005 (you need 4)
Fuel filter banjo bolts: 90401-12097 (you need 2)

Fuel pump pre-filter: 23217-11010
C-Clip: 23229-16010

Depending on condition of the gaskets and other rubber bits and pieces, you may also need:
Fuel pump bracket gasket: 77169-60010
Banjo bolt for fuel pump union: 90401-12097
Crush washers for fuel pump union: 90430-12026 (you need 2)
 
I was changing the 02 sensors the other day. The right side (closest to the center of the car, I think this is sensor #1?) came off easy enough after pb blasting it the night before. The left side however was fused to the 02 sensor mounting plate. One nut had shed so much rust that it shrank down to a 9mm from a 12mm. I grabbed an extractor and the 1/4 ratchet that I could fit in and applied some pressure. It wasn't wanting to budge and I didn't want to shear off the stud so I applied some heat on and waited a few minutes. Tried again still nothing, so I thought I'd pb blaster soak it over night again and try the next day. The next day was no better and I tried for a few hours of heat / pb treatment, and eventually the nut started to budge. Or so I thought. Keep in mind I'm using a 1/4 ratchet so I can't apply very much force, but next thing I know I'm holding a sheared off stud and bolt. Doh. I found this Toyota O2 Sensor Mounting Flange Kit for Toyota 02 sensors - KIT-1098 flange online and since I'm not much of a welder, I called up a local muffler shop. For $50 he said he'd cut it out and weld in the new flange.

The left sensor itself was in pretty bad shape. I can't imagine it was functional, but I didn't run the service manuals diagnostics. If swapping the 02 sensors doesn't fix the CEL 28 I'll have to find my meter and run the tests.
 
The left sensor itself was in pretty bad shape. I can't imagine it was functional, but I didn't run the service manuals diagnostics. If swapping the 02 sensors doesn't fix the CEL 28 I'll have to find my meter and run the tests.
Always remember to reset the ECU after changing parts. Pull the 15 amp EFI fuse for a few minutes. This will clear any old codes and allow the ECU to relearn the sensors.
 
I pulled the EFI fuse for 15 mins after swapping the right 02 sensor, but the CEL was immediately on. (Same 28) Which has me thinking that maybe it's a hiring harness or the left 02 sensor itself is shorted out. I couldn't try with the new sensor because I accidentally ordered the wrong part number. I had a number in the middle swapped. The correct 02 sensor should arrive Monday with the new flanges.
 
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I ordered the hi / low bulbs from candle power (9011 and 9012) and they arrived today. I was getting tired of the green glow of low beams gave so I went to replace the bulbs. Turns out the PO has run some type of different harness / socket. Anyone recongize what this could be?

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I ordered the hi / low bulbs from candle power (9011 and 9012) and they arrived today. I was getting tired of the green glow of low beams gave so I went to replace the bulbs. Turns out the PO has run some type of different harness / socket. Anyone recongize what this could be?

Looks like a cheap "HID" conversion. I recently picked up a highlander for my wife and the PO had installed something similar, same connections and 4 wires running through a rubber grommet. Are there ballasts mounted somewhere near? The original light connector should be plugged into that harness. Should be able to disconnect the aftermarket harness and connect to your new bulbs.
 

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