aaargh... garage flooded... water heater

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Eric- that is not a solder joint. That is part of the steel of the tank and it is welded. For it to have corroded through like that- the inside it in TERRIBLE condition. Save yourself the frustration and cut your losses.

Luke
 
e9999 said:
is the sacrificial anode the hex cap thing behind the flue there? (Didn't want to take it off in case I can't seal it back up properly.)
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Yes.




e9999 said:
How are these things usually attached on the bottom?
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Usually, they're not. Usually, the tank just sits on the platform.
 
LukeZero said:
Eric- that is not a solder joint. That is part of the steel of the tank and it is welded. For it to have corroded through like that- the inside it in TERRIBLE condition. Save yourself the frustration and cut your losses.

Luke
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OK, point well taken. Odd, though, that sure looks like solder to me. It's a silver band unlike the steel tank surface, and is soft.

I did take an awl and was able to go right through that hole to a big cavity underneath. Can't quite figure how this thing looks. Is this a joint that is supposed to handle pressure or does it have water underneath because there is a leak someplace else...?
 
-Spike- said:
Yes.






Usually, they're not. Usually, the tank just sits on the platform.
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ah, I'm sure tempted to take it off to see the condition. May wait a bit longer.

Unfortunately, it seems like the tank is anchored to the platform. There are 3 vertical galvanized steel (I think) legs going down into the platform. This platform looks like sheetrock or plaster on the outside. No idea what's in there. Maybe it was built after the legs were secured. I hate to destroy it since I will need another one (I think code requires 18" minimum above floor).

And it will need bracing for earthquakes too...

Damn, this is going to be a big job.



I may go with tankless possibly, though...
 
Anode is the plug behind the flue you can just dope it to reseal it but their a bitch to break free. Female Dielectric unions go on the nipples that will stick out of a Bradford White. If you use a Rheem of AO Smith then you'd need male Dielectric unions. A 50 gal would work for a 2 1/2 to 3 bathroom house. You won't get a steel tank to take solder, you could try welding. What are you trying for some kind of longevity record?
 
Toyo FJ40 said:
Anode is the plug behind the flue you can just dope it to reseal it but their a bitch to break free. Female Dielectric unions go on the nipples that will stick out of a Bradford White. If you use a Rheem of AO Smith then you'd need male Dielectric unions. A 50 gal would work for a 2 1/2 to 3 bathroom house. You won't get a steel tank to take solder, you could try welding. What are you trying for some kind of longevity record?
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ah, that would be nice.

No, I'm just trying to keep the 3 :princess: happy until I have done my research and found out what to get and how to put it in, rather than rushing to get the first thing available.

3 :princess:, 2 teens without hot water...? :eek:

it's good for them... :D



realistically, it doesn't look good with that hole, and it's bigger now than it used to be.


amazingly, there is no dielectric union in those pipes. The copper pipes go straight onto the steel tank. Maybe the dope helped... Sure lasted long enough...
 
Wow a lot of others have made it before I could make it back and it appears we are all on the same page. Cut your losses and get another unit.
Some codes require a enclosed lower platform to prevent gas fumes from collecting under and creating a place that can go boom.
But get another and dissect the old one to understand how it operates.
A platform won't be that difficult to fab up with Redwood or Nasty green pressure treated lumber as you are aware you have to meet earthquake standards we don't require up in NW Az. so you are on your own to read there requirements.
 
I got a Rheem Furry 50 gal, not sure model number for about $620 out the door. I installed using shark bite fitting and sweated in valves. I also had to include an expansion tank. I used flex stainless steel hose to attach to WH. I figure I will get about 10 yrs with this one. BTW....mapp gas rules
 
Re. Shark Bite fittings.

I know the manufacturer claims they are for "permanent" duty- but I won't let our guys leave them in place for more than emergency, temporary repairs. Maybe I'm just skeptical of new stuff till it's proven beyond a shadow of a doubt. Or I'm just getting old and cranky. :curmudgeonvoiceon:(Back in my day, we didn't have all these new-fangled, push lock fittings, we had to solder everything, up hill both ways, in 3 feet of snow.):curmudgeonvoiceoff:
 
SharkBite fittings are rated for underground use. That amazes me. I wouldn't use them in my own house buried in a wall, but I've seen them in attics and such, and I've used a few in exposed places, and I've never seen one leak. That's not exactly the test of time, but not bad- I've seen solder joints leak, both new and old. They're frigging awesome for joining dissimilar materials.
 
yup, not gonna try to fix it per everybody's advice here and utter lack of potential. Surely not worth the trouble fixing it, tempting as it may be from a toolhead perspective, and I haven't even seen the bottom yet, which is usually a bad spot too.

I am embarrassed to have to admit that I never checked the sacrificial anode on this thing. Although it seems intended to be there for the long run as it was not at all accessible. There was a screwed and glued cover on top of it.



Now I have to decide between storage tank and tankless. I'm all over the tankless for gadget and efficiency reasons, but the dang things require a new flue....
 
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Shark bite fittings are great for temp lines and capping lines for pressure tests and getting water back on till we can come back to finish. I know that they are suppose to be permanent but I've seen them leak where they get bumped after they've been on for a long time (2 years) The o-rings get crusty and when the fitting gets twisted they start to leak. I had it happen when I worked on a line that had a shark bite tee farther down the line and I moved it enough that it wouldn't stop dripping so I cut it out.
 
Toyo FJ40 said:
Big screw run through a rubber washer into the hole will get you back on for a while.

If you run your recirculate pump on a tankless you'll have some problems.
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Not necessarily. We've been installing the tankless from Navien for a year and a half. PVC venting instead of the stupid expensive flue from Rinnai and you can get it with re-circ built in.
 
LukeZero said:
Not necessarily. We've been installing the tankless from Navien for a year and a half. PVC venting instead of the stupid expensive flue from Rinnai and you can get it with re-circ built in.
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I only say that because I just relocated a Rinnai because of an addition. I put in a recirc loop because of the added distance and the thing fires almost all the time( I did insulate the lines). I put a timer on the pump so that it only runs twice a day and it's better. It fires till the return line is hot and the pump thermostate turns off the pump then it cools for about 10-15 mins and starts again when the pump turns back on.
 
LukeZero said:
Not necessarily. We've been installing the tankless from Navien for a year and a half. PVC venting instead of the stupid expensive flue from Rinnai and you can get it with re-circ built in.
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what what? what is this? :) PVC venting? That sounds too good. Indeed the stainless flue is a killer cost wise it seems for the tankless plus a pain and may kill my tankless idea... Could I use one of those heaters with my old galvanized flue as is?


I must say I'm a bit wondering too about how long it'd take to get the water hot at the shower with a tankless. The garage is as from the main bathroom as can be, probably close to a 100ft.

What's the better value: Rheem or Takagi or Navien?
 
I like the Navien. Similar investment for the equipment as a Rinnai. Easier installation. Higher efficiency (ie. using PVC for the exhaust ergo less waste heat going up the chimney. (Not to be confused with a power vent water heater that is NOT high efficiency, just uses a lot of dilution air to get the exhaust temp down to where PVC will tolerate it.) ;)
 
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