A440F Weirdness Questions (1 Viewer)

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AussieHJCruza

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Joined
Jul 8, 2013
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61
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2,620
Location
New South Wales, Australia
Website
www.completecruisers.com.au
G'day Everyone, it's a while since I've been in the 60 section;

I'm looking at a JDM HJ61 that has already been imported over to Oz, but I would like some advice re. the trans as I'm not real familiar with the A440.

So, she's done 285,000 km, seems to be in good, well maintained condition, however the seller tells me that after about 40 minutes of driving, the transmission seems to start to slip, revs rise and drive seems to decrease. He also tells me that if you stop the engine for 30 seconds or so and restart, it's fine again. Apparently a shop has told him 'they're a sealed unit so the only thing you can do is rebuild it.'

Now, that sounds like a dodgy shop trying to get it in for a rebuild to me, so that's why I'm asking the MUD collective for advice: Has anyone experienced anything like this and is it likely to be caused by a serious problem in the trans, or could it be something simple or just a lack of maintenance? The stop engine and restart fix has me a bit puzzled because that seems to be the type of thing caused by some electrical problem, but the A440 is fully hydraulic.

I guess my question comes down to; has anyone got any idea what could cause this sort of behavior or would I need to allow for a tear down to see what's wrong and possibly a rebuild? If the latter, would I be better off to consider driving till it drops and then put a H55 in?
 
The A440F is not a sealed unit. You can drop the pan and replace the metal screen filter. There are directions in this forum explaining how to flush (not with pressure) all fluid out and replace with new fluid.

If it's slipping then odds are it's on its way out. Most of us A440F guys run transmission coolers since we are on larger tires pushing heavier than stock loads.

Step 1:
Swap fluid and replace screen filter.

Step 2:
Adjust kickdown cable

Step 3:
Party trick (stick in Park while driving) to dislodge anything from valve body. This process is also laid out in this forum.

Step 4:
Assuming it no longer slips, install a transmission cooler. Some people report synthetic fluid runs a lot cooler. I use generic trans fluid with no issues. These transmissions can take a beating as long as you keep them cool.

***
When you refill with new fluid make sure you have the correct amount reading on dip stick (when warm). These transmissions like the correct amount of fluid.


****
To test torque converter:
While driving and getting on freeway watch it shift. As you shift into the highest gear watch the tach. The rpms should drop a few hundred as the torque converter locks up. IF your torque converter does not lock up then it will generate tons of heat on the freeway and overheat causing clutch pack damage which requires a major rebuild.
 
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So...all the transmission shops I have spoken too are saying it definitely needs a rebuild, full stop. However, I spoke to an old mechanic friend of mine and he says the first thing he would suspect is the filter is blocked, but it could be too late to save the trans.
What does the MUD collective think?
 
Fluid and kick down cable. Items #1 and #2 in Post #1.
 
Mine did the same thing, tranny guy said junk clogs the filter, trans slips, when you stop junk falls down allowing fluid to move until the junk clogs it up again. Had it rebuilt and no problems since.
 
Drop the pan and filter and see what is going on inside. You owe yourself that much before you commit huge $$ toward a rebuild.
 
Thanks for the replies, the seller says it hasn't been driven since it started doing it except the test drive, so hopefully the internals are all fine. I reckon I'm gonna buy it, hope for the best but take into account she might need a trans rebuild.
 
Sounds like he is selling it cause the transmission is slipping. I'd make sure the price gets discounted.
 
Well, the seller was willing to take into account the fact that the transmission may need a rebuild with the price, so I've bought it...
 
Sweet... now put the money you saved toward a new 5-speed my friend! Enjoy. Congratulations!
 
After checking ATF fluid level
First thing to do is completely back off the kick down cable (TPS) and drive it around the suburbs for 10klm or so. See if it changes up and down gears as it should. The TPS effects up and down changes and can often be the reason for "slipping " transmission when warm.If you want a hand "adjusting" the TPS (kick down cable) PM me the 12HT doesn't always like factory settings.
 
Step 3:
Party trick (stick in reverse while driving) to dislodge anything from valve body. This process is also laid out in this forum.


The rest of your information was accurate to the best of my knowledge but better clear this up.
NOT Reverse. Put it in park for a few seconds at speed around 50 mph.
 
You are correct. It is Park, not reverse. I'll edit my post above.
 
So...a bit of an update; rodney flushed and a new filter done probably a couple of months ago;

Old fluid was brown and horrible, didn't smell burnt
There was a lot of goop in the bottom of the pan, a bit sparkly and a bit of brass, but no massive bits of metal, and a lot of sludgy stuff
The filter was very dirty

With a new filter and ~16 litres of DexIII, it drives great. A little flare on kickback at the moment but working on adjusting the cable to hopefully fix that, but shifts smoothly, locks up in 4th and generally works well.

I've only put a couple of hundred km on it since, but I reckon she might be OK!
 
Incidentally, I'm guessing if the kickdown increases line pressure, I'd want to run it on the side of tighter rather than looser wouldn't I, ie, if I 'overtighten' it, I won't hurt anything, as opposed to excessive slipping if I was to run it loose.
 
Incidentally, I'm guessing if the kickdown increases line pressure, I'd want to run it on the side of tighter rather than looser wouldn't I, ie, if I 'overtighten' it, I won't hurt anything, as opposed to excessive slipping if I was to run it loose.
Just keep in mind that while a hard shift due to increased line pressure isn't nearly as bad as slipping, you're going to want to make sure you keep the trans cool. Increased line pressure generates heat.
 
Just keep in mind that while a hard shift due to increased line pressure isn't nearly as bad as slipping, you're going to want to make sure you keep the trans cool. Increased line pressure generates heat.
Good point, thanks for that. She's got a couple of trans coolers but I'll keep an eye on the temperature
 

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