A440f shifting issues when cold (1 Viewer)

[rybetts]

Throwing out a prayer here...

I started having issues with the throttle valve cable sticking on my a440f - symptoms were that shifting would only occur at very high RPMs, 3000 - 3500 range, and after I'd stop and pop the hood, I'd inspect the cable to find that it would not retract back...it was stuck somewhere. After cooling down, the cable would retract back fine.

Figured I would investigate anyway, so dropped the transmission oil pan, cleaned out the oil strainer and monitored the cable operation. Cable seemed to operate fine, it would pull out with no issues and retract as I would expect it to under normal operation. My assumption at that point was that the shifting mechanism in the valve body may have been seizing up due to high temps; so decided not to replace it, reinstalled the filter and pan, and completed the Rodney Flush to remove the remaining old fluid that looked bad when draining the pan. Also installed an auxiliary transmission cooler, in series after the radiator, to also help reduce overheating potential in the future.

Now to the crux of the situation...after checking that the fluid level was brought back to where it should be (running and in park), I tried getting it out of the garage - no power in reverse, but no issues going into 1st gear to get it back into the garage. Took a few attempts at this with no success, until I took a desperate grasp at throwing it into 4LO and giving it a bit extra skinny pedal and presto!!, reverse no problem. Took it out for a short cruise around the block; 1 - 2 no shifting issues, but 3rd nowhere to be found. It almost felt like the valve body did its job to upshift, but couldn't get it quite there as I had no power until I manually shifted it back into 2nd gear - at this point, I don't believe the fluid to have been brought up to "peak" operating temps. Back into the garage and found the throttle valve cable was stuck again - so let it cool. Repeated above...same issues with reverse, but this time took it for a long drive to get it up to "peak" temps (don't have a trans oil gauge to list what that temp would have been) and after a while driving in second and getting the RPMS to 3500 - 3rd gear engaged. Note: there was a time where I thought I had to have my front hubs locked to get it to engage in reverse, but I no longer think this is case...

So, after all of that, does this sound like a Valve Body issue, Torque Convertor issue or Transmission issue? I understand that I could have toasted something on my last drive, based on the colour of my fluid, but I wasn't having issues with the engage gears after a cold start before and I would have no issues at cold start going 1st to 4th. Prime candidate for a Rodney Party Trick?

Thanks in advance if there is anyone out there that could provide any insights or wake me from my denial and tell me it's time to make a significant dent in the wallet.

Cheers,

Ryan.

 

[pithicus]

Could it be a fray or sludge in the cable, causing it to stick intermittently, with heat changes?
Something to try.
Make sure the cable is fully retracted , disconnect it from the carb and go for a spin. If all your gears work again [although change really early] You might get lucky.
If it won't engage in reverse still with the cable disconnected, you could be in trouble.
If not the cable, make sure the fluid level is right.
party trick might help. Worth a shot.
friction modifier additive maybe? I would try anything before forking out $$$$$ for a rebuild.

 

[YooperCruiser]

I would replace the cable, it's not hard and you don't have to drop the valve body. I just did mine, did the rodney flush, the party trick, installed a new cable, added a cooler and then changed the fluid to Schaeffers All Trans Supreme synthetic ATF. It felt like someone installed a new trans in my 62, shifts beautifully now.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Start by replacing the cable. Hope that’s it. Mike

 

[rybetts]

Could it be a fray or sludge in the cable, causing it to stick intermittently, with heat changes?
Something to try.
Make sure the cable is fully retracted , disconnect it from the carb and go for a spin. If all your gears work again [although change really early] You might get lucky.
If it won't engage in reverse still with the cable disconnected, you could be in trouble.
If not the cable, make sure the fluid level is right.
party trick might help. Worth a shot.
friction modifier additive maybe? I would try anything before forking out $$$$$ for a rebuild.

Thanks Pithicus,

Did add ~1/2 quart to the tranny this morning after the cold reading was a bit low and disconnected the cable after ensuring it was fully retracted.

Same issues with Reverse, seems like it has gone into reverse, but the power is lacking with just enough for me to get out of the garage and backed up on the street (which I'm reversing up a moderate incline after a slight decline on the driveway to produce additional momentum). First to second no problem, but after it shifts to third - feels like it has shifted into neutral.... Took it for a leisure spin down a dirt road that allowed me to also test out 4Lo, and get it warmed up. On the turn around and back home stretch, I experienced shifting of all 4 gears and got it up to 100km to execute the Party Trick...non eventful to say the least. Seemed to shift fine getting back home, and once in the garage tested out reverse...got a good chirp when it engaged after an initial rev up, but had plenty of power in reverse after this warm up drive.

So in summary, it seems like I have all the gears, they just don't engage until I've warmed the truck up significantly - maybe it's the fluid...

Cable is ordered, I'll replace soon along with trying out some "better" ATF (currently using Valvoline Maxlife Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF) with the addition of a friction modifier. We'll see where that leaves me.

Cheers for the replies.

 

[pithicus]

Rybetts, if the trans has done a lot of km's like over 200,000 without an external cooler and without regular fluid changes. it's probably starting to get tired.
Proper cooling and maintenance can double the life of these transmissions.
New synth atf is a good idea.Mine has a a little slippage when reversing when really cold, and has for years, but it's fine otherwise.
After the new cable, if it still sticks in the v-body it's time to pull apart the v-body and inspect/clean , and hopefully fix that issue, unless the new fluid or an additive fixes it somehow.
good luck.
also forgot to ask, Is the t-converter locking?

 

[rybetts]

Rybetts, if the trans has done a lot of km's like over 200,000 without an external cooler and without regular fluid changes. it's probably starting to get tired.
Proper cooling and maintenance can double the life of these transmissions.
New synth atf is a good idea.Mine has a a little slippage when reversing when really cold, and has for years, but it's fine otherwise.
After the new cable, if it still sticks in the v-body it's time to pull apart the v-body and inspect/clean , and hopefully fix that issue, unless the new fluid or an additive fixes it somehow.
good luck.
also forgot to ask, Is the t-converter locking?

I'm not sure of the transmission history, but the odometer reads 434,900kms so given the 200k rule, I'm likely pushing it towards the end of it's second life. That coupled with the condition of the fluid that I pulled immediately after I purchased it, I'd say it's very close to retirement...

However; after letting it sit for a while, I jumped back in it yesterday and it had all gears and shifted beautifully right from the get go...maybe the Party Trick flushed something out after all! I'm still of the belief that I'm operating on borrowed time, and will continue with the cable and upgraded fluid install, which provides me time to save for a H55F or sell with full disclosure.

In regards to the t-converter locking up, I'm not sure if it is...I'll test that out in the next couple days (wasn't paying attention on the last test run).

Thanks,
Ryan.

 

[jessebee]

same thing happened to mine and sad to say it was toast in less than 200 miles after these problems started.

Start looking for a transmission

 

[SteveH]

You might try starting the truck and letting it idle for 30 seconds in the morning to build trans pressure before engaging reverse. I'm not saying you do this, but there are people who shift into reverse before the starter has stopped spinning . Be nice to your tired old transmission.

 

[pithicus]

400,000 + km's is certainly possible if it's never overheated, not a lot of towing etc. A lot of these auto's get worn output shafts with this amount of km's, and have a clunk when engaging forward/reverse. If there's no clunk, it may not be the original untouched trans.

 

[FJ Silver]

No real harm in the Rodney Party Trick...
Sadly there is only so much you can do.
After checking the fluid level when its hot, like real hot. You checked the strainer filter. Passive flush can help a lot if the oil is just really old.
I'm in the same boat and exploring options. I think I'm going 5 speed.

 

[DirtRoads]

If that cable is sticking, even a little, it will throw the whole system out of whack. Change the cable and it will fix your problem. Intermittent sticking is not uncommon in my experience.

 

[FJ Silver]

For me what helped was taping a funnel to the top end of the cable, hang it up with the hood open and fill the funnel with ATF. fixed my issues with the sticky cable.

 

[rybetts]

I would replace the cable, it's not hard and you don't have to drop the valve body. I just did mine, did the rodney flush, the party trick, installed a new cable, added a cooler and then changed the fluid to Schaeffers All Trans Supreme synthetic ATF. It felt like someone installed a new trans in my 62, shifts beautifully now.

YooperCruiser,

Were you able to find a cable through Toyota? If so, what's the part number you used? I just tried here in Canada, and I'm being told that it is now obsolete.

Thanks,

Ryan.

 

[rybetts]

For me what helped was taping a funnel to the top end of the cable, hang it up with the hood open and fill the funnel with ATF. fixed my issues with the sticky cable.

Awesome idea! I'm trying that at the moment...trying to force WD40 down the throat of the cable wasn't helping.

 

[rybetts]

Thanks everyone for the replies; after the cable and fluid change, the tranny shifts beautifully - amazing how sensitive the shifting is the cable being completely operable (ie. no sticking) - but I guess shouldn't be surprised by that! Had it on an extended weekend outing and no issues what so ever - up and down shifted like it should....still, separate 5 speed savings account has been established.

 

[YooperCruiser]

YooperCruiser,

Were you able to find a cable through Toyota? If so, what's the part number you used? I just tried here in Canada, and I'm being told that it is now obsolete.

Thanks,

Ryan.

I bought my cable from toyotapartsdeal.com
Part No: 35520-60050 CABLE ASSY, THROTTLE