a343f slipping after transgo install (1 Viewer)

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I recently installed a Transgo shift kit in my turbo truck prior to sending it to the tuner. I hadn't driven the truck after installing it as I needed to get a tune done to operate it safely. Now the tuner is having trouble with it slipping between 3rd and 4th. While I was in there, I turned the line pressure adjustment to high to further increase shift firmness. Transmission fluid level is correct at temperature.
Anyone with transmission knowledge have any suggestions? Transmission worked perfectly before install.

Thanks

Truck build thread here
 
That is a good idea. I might just pull it fully tight and tie it off somehow for full pressure.
Sorry not lockdown that was autocorrect but sounds like you knew what I meant. Haha
 
So this might not be what you want to hear, but with the extra power your turbo setup is capable of making you might needed to have gone to a larger hole size than the truck drilling. Did the tuner tell you at what power level it is slipping? I did my transmission to the "hot rod" size and just a touch bigger. If it is 10+psi I would bet your trans is slipping....
possibly but from my own experience I have build a rig with a wits end turbo and did the transgo kit and they worked well together.
 
possibly but from my own experience I have build a rig with a wits end turbo and did the transgo kit and they worked well together.
Yeah the truck drilling is totally fine and what I would recommend for Witts End turbo level power, but that’s not what we are talking about here. He has a stand alone computer and is likely going to make a whole lot more power.
 
It was not rebuilt. Which seals are we talking about?
There are normally seals in each drum that the fluid builds behind to move the apply plates to engage the frictions. If the seal leaks it lets fluid past and causes a lack of pressure on the apply plates, thus not pushing the frictions together tight enough and then slip. I thought I read you think it slips from 3 to 4 so I would inspect the 3-4 frictions and apply plates/seals for leaks. In a 4 speed trans the 3-4 shift is probably the most used so those components tend to wear out faster. Very common issue in transmissions like the 4L60E.
 
There are normally seals in each drum that the fluid builds behind to move the apply plates to engage the frictions. If the seal leaks it lets fluid past and causes a lack of pressure on the apply plates, thus not pushing the frictions together tight enough and then slip. I thought I read you think it slips from 3 to 4 so I would inspect the 3-4 frictions and apply plates/seals for leaks. In a 4 speed trans the 3-4 shift is probably the most used so those components tend to wear out faster. Very common issue in transmissions like the 4L60E.
Unfortunately I have only been able to relay what was reported to me which is frustrating. I am going this afternoon to tow it back home and do some proper troubleshooting.

Since It seems I have some knowledgeable people together here, what do you think about this kit?


I had been planning to rebuild the spare transmission I bought to handle the additional power. In Australia, a lot of the rebuilders will machine out more space for extra frictions. I probably wont go that far, but would like to use upgraded components.
 
Unfortunately I have only been able to relay what was reported to me which is frustrating. I am going this afternoon to tow it back home and do some proper troubleshooting.

Since It seems I have some knowledgeable people together here, what do you think about this kit?


I had been planning to rebuild the spare transmission I bought to handle the additional power. In Australia, a lot of the rebuilders will machine out more space for extra frictions. I probably wont go that far, but would like to use upgraded components.
I say save your money and avoid level 10, if you want a built trans go to ATFSpeed.
 
I've not attempted the transmission rebuild on the land cruiser yet. Anyone know what type of special tools are required? I've done chevy transmissions and most of the special tools can be substituted with more common stuff most shade tree mechanics will already have. Wish I had better input on what kit to go with but interested to see what the opinions are from guys who've actually rebuild one.
 
Yeah the truck drilling is totally fine and what I would recommend for Witts End turbo level power, but that’s not what we are talking about here. He has a stand alone computer and is likely going to make a whole lot more power.
gotcha, that's what I get for not fully reading and just skimming threads......
 
Took a little more time to get the truck home but i got it today and can more accurately report what seems to be going on. It seems like it doesn't complete the shift from 3 to 4. It feels like it tries to shift but just doesn't quite get there. Can t think of another way to describe it. None of the shifts feel firm, very slushy. I am going to drop the valve body tomorrow and swap in the extra one I have.
 
Took a little more time to get the truck home but i got it today and can more accurately report what seems to be going on. It seems like it doesn't complete the shift from 3 to 4. It feels like it tries to shift but just doesn't quite get there. Can t think of another way to describe it. None of the shifts feel firm, very slushy. I am going to drop the valve body tomorrow and swap in the extra one I have.
And everything worked well before you did the transgo kit? I would look for nicked seals, missing check balls, etc. Did you buy new gaskets for between the 2 halves?
 
And everything worked well before you did the transgo kit? I would look for nicked seals, missing check balls, etc. Did you buy new gaskets for between the 2 halves?
Yep, worked great. Got new gaskets from Joey at wits end. Going to open it up again tomorrow, will report back.
 
Uh oh, I think something very bad just happened. I was doing some more testing, noting that it wasn’t holding gear when on a hill. Had it in the driveway and revved it a little in park (tuner has set up knock control, tuned conservatively until this issue can get sorted, said it was ok to drive). Then this happened. This appears to be engine oil that blew through the dip stick tube. I’m so confused.
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Engine oil blowing through the dipstick means you are pressurizing your crankcase with boost. You need to check your PCV valves as well as any lines that could feed pressure back into the engine. You might be ok, but if you pressurize the engine I have seen oil seals blown out.
 
Engine oil blowing through the dipstick means you are pressurizing your crankcase with boost. You need to check your PCV valves as well as any lines that could feed pressure back into the engine. You might be ok, but if you pressurize the engine I have seen oil seals blown out.
After calming myself down a little I think that’s exactly what it is. I immediately imagined broken pistons and blown head gaskets, but it has to be boost through the pcv or something. Anyway, going to get back to swapping the valve body now.
 
Also you brake master cylinder appears to be full to the brim?? Hopefully it’s a easy fix with a new pcv. Careful when pulling it if it’s old the pieces will break apart and want to fall into the valve cover. I tried a aftermarket gasket and it didn’t fit right OEM is the way to go on this one. Good luck.
 
Also you brake master cylinder appears to be full to the brim?? Hopefully it’s a easy fix with a new pcv. Careful when pulling it if it’s old the pieces will break apart and want to fall into the valve cover. I tried a aftermarket gasket and it didn’t fit right OEM is the way to go on this one. Good luck.
That’s just from when I used the power bleeder, it filled it too high but I didn’t bother removing the extra.

The pcv is brand new, as are all of the rubber peices under the hood. I’m going to route it to the air box.
 
That’s just from when I used the power bleeder, it filled it too high but I didn’t bother removing the extra.

The pcv is brand new, as are all of the rubber peices under the hood. I’m going to route it to the air box.
Yeah the PCV has to be routed before the turbo inlet, anything post turbo or manifold has a high probability of having an issue.
 

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