A Week in Utah is Never Enough (1 Viewer)

[pappy]

If you have been there, you understand why. I just came back from 7 days exploring the Grand Staircase-Escalante NM, Glen Canyon NRA, and a little bit of the Cedar Mesa area. It went something like this.

Drove to Page, gassed up. Continued to Big Water, UT, and start up Smokey Mountain Rd. Take the detour to Alstrom Point. The point is very popular, and that Monday was no exception. Checked up before reaching the point, mostly because I figured it was a parking lot with people watching the sunset. Plus, I found a killer campsite, and I didn't want to loose it. Based on the traffic driving out after sunset I think I made a good decision.

 

[pappy]

The next day I drove back to Smoky Mountain Rd and went up to the burning coal seams. Moving on, I had always wanted to drive Left Hand Collet Canyon over to Hole in the Rock Rd. Once through Left Hand Collet Canyon I drove south on the Hole in the Rock Rd. There was lots of traffic, but, most appeared to be day use. Few seemed to be equipped to spend the night. I drove down, checking out several camp options, and finally settled on a site 4.5 miles from the end of the road. I should not use the word "settled." It was a great campsite. In true desert form, the silence was deafening.

 

[pappy]

The next morning I drove down to the end of Hole in the Rock Rd, expecting to find a gaggle of campers. To my surprise, there were none. I decided to take advantage and hang out for a few hours, just enjoying the peace.

 

[pappy]

From there, north up Hole in the Rock Rd to a turn I had seen to 50 Mile Bench. The road was crazy steep. Once on top, I went south to the end, checking out several camp options, and seeing a few campers. Not wanting to burn daylight, I drove north to the end of the road and a very acceptable campsite. The view was fabulous, but I would not say photogenic.

The next morning it was time to visit Escalante. I had not been down Hole in the Rock Rd in over 30 years. When Nylia and I did it we didn't see another soul for three days. My how things change when you take a place like this and put a name on it. Anyways, Escalante was not the little town I remember. I pulled into the visitor center and it was full of cars and two tour busses. I bought the map I needed for Cedar Mesa, and blasted out of town, only making a stop for a splash of gas.

 

[pappy]

From there, the Burr Trail. Back in the late 1980's the county wanted to pave the Burr. The Sierra Club had serious heart burn with the idea and vigorously fought the county. It was a major fuss. It's now paved all the way through to Capitol Reef NP. I guess since the space is now part of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the Sierra Club is OK with providing access. The nice thing is people day drive the Burr from Boulder, UT to Capitol Reef, and turn around. They don't seem to explore the side roads much.

Well, that was my whole point of being there. First up, down Wolverine exploring many of the side roads and trailheads. Ultimately, I end up taking the 4WD road to Moody Canyon, and spending the night in Middle Moody. The next morning was a short hike down Middle Moody. After the hike, I packed up and drove back to the Burr. Then north toward the Circle Cliffs eventually finding a very acceptable camp.

 

[pappy]

It was time to start thinking of pointing the truck towards home. I drove down Mully Twist, and stayed on the Burr to Bullfrog. From there, up to Hwy 95 to Hite. Then the road to Kane Creek Visitor Center to inquire about Cedar Mesa. I only had two days to do a quick exploration. I started out on the Mormon Trail. On the way I see in the distance the distinctive grill of a late model FJ40. Naw, really? Out here? They got to be on MUD. I get closer. It really is a FJ40, with a RTT, awning ... and two HDC members. It was Gab and Catherine. Geez. After a quick visit I'm on my way to find a camp in Comb Wash. The wind was stupid, so no pics.

The next morning, north up Comb Wash I go, cross Hwy 95, and continue up Comb Wash until it turns into ATV trails. I back track, and head over to Butler Wash Rd. Butler Wash has several cliff dwellings up on Comb Ridge. Next time. The wind the night before was insane, and this day was not any better. I decide to drive part way home. The wind was fierce, and at one point I stopped and recorded 32mph.

Now I just need to study the Cedar Mesa map and decide where, and when.

 

[NyNomad]

never enough time

 

[Dumpolina]

@pappy you rule. Thank you for the detailed write-up and always excellent pictures!!

 

[alia176]

Dognabit, I'm so ready for retirement...about 25 years ago That's it, I'm buying a freaking lottery ticket today because that's about the only way I'm gonna be able to hang with Pappy.

 

[evanz80]

Thanks for the trip report, and always awesome photos!

Looks like you are enjoying the RTT!

 

[OGBeno]

Nice. Very nice terrain.

 

[pappy]

Looks like you are enjoying the RTT!

I've said it. The roof tent is a game changer.

 

[krazykat69]

Great pics and write up. I really like how you go wayyyy back into the Back country.

 

[marcfj60]

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing and making Ali bummed that he's too young to retire.

 

[pappy]

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing and making Ali bummed that he's too young to retire.

I like to think I'm a bad influence.

 

[pappy]

Based on my reaction to observed visitors to this area, I decided to look at Google Reviews. Some of my favorites:

One Star:

• "
  Way over rated just a bunch of dirt and rocks.​
  "​
• "
  The portion in the town of Escalante is very disappointing. Visitor center is so-so, but there is really not much in the part of the Escalante national monument in Escalante.

  We recommend you allot no more than an hour to see all there is to see in the town of Escalante; better to continue on to other parts of Escalante, Bryce, etc.​
  " Say what? I wanted another two weeks to explore.​
• "
  This place is WAY too big. The lameness went on for hours. Seriously, I thought it would never end.​
  " ​
• "
  Scenery is great but the road is atrocious with the washboard. Why any road with that much traffic is not paved is beyond me."​
• "
  Nothing special, just an overlook.​
  "​

Two Star:​

• "
  All this a Natl. Monument? Lots of interesting stuff but much more that is just open range. Much Ado [sic] about a few special places surrounded by many not so special places.​
  "​
• "

  I really wish that they would just pave hole in a rock road that leads to the trails. Unless you have a SUV or Jeep you won't make it more then 5 or 6 miles down this road.​

  " Geez, it was just washboard. Sissy.​

Three Star:

• "
  Hole in the Rock Rd sucked. View once we got to where we were going was beautiful.​
  "
• "
  Not like all the visual pictures I've seen & read about throughout the years. I expected more than I saw.​
  " Wonder if they got out of their car.
• "

  Can't see much without 4wd.​

  " Or boots.​
• "
  It's to big to see all of it.​
  " And the problem is …?​
• "
  Has a lot of scenery, a little bit of walking..​
  "​
• "

  Neat place just costly for large family​

  "​
  Uh, there was no Park admission fee. WTF they talking about? Motels?

 

[lurch]

Bwahaha...YES tell everyone how terrible it all is and to never go there!

 

[pappy]

Bwahaha...YES tell everyone how terrible it all is and to never go there!

I think these folks were serious.

 

[lurch]

I think these folks were serious.

The plan is working perfectly

 

[pappy]

The only thing I did was complain there wasn't a Starbucks at the Hole-in-the-Rock register. Sixty-two miles down this miserable road and nothing worthwhile there.