A ticking time bomb (smog pump) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 2, 2013
Threads
5
Messages
81
Location
Reno,NV
It's time to Desmog,yes?

I have enjoyed driving my 60, I have spent countless hours chasing the ghosts in the machine. Like expolsions in the dizzy, fuel smells, rebuilt carb, replacing bsv's,vsv's, high altitude issues, exhaust leak at the manifold, replaced muffler...and the list goes on.

A few weeks ago I passed smog legitimately which felt great. Now I have a tick and I think that instead of chasing the problems I am going to eliminate the smog equipment since NV doesn't require it on vehicle 25yrs or older, I just have to pay for classic plates, which I will miss my current plates.

So sooner than later I will be selling all of my emissions equipment which is in great shape except for a shot smog pump. I really like having a stock 60 with all the emissions intact. My rig runs great with plenty of power it just rolled 290,000 miles today. I have looked at different smog deletes I would love to get some input on the best out come from just removing the pump guts to the best setup(likely my route). I have looked at http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts/2fdesmogkit.html and it looks nice. Please help!
 
I just desmogged mine. Really wish I'd done it sooner, the truck runs so much better now. Like you, I'd been patching the various systems whenever they failed, but it was a long slow decline. Now that it's done, I see that most of my various valves had stopped working properly, which was probably why the engine wasn't running in top for, before. Now, post-desmog, I've got a simpler, smoother-running engine with more power and better MPGs.

Download the PDF on this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-desmog-keeping-hac-lots-of-pics.440288/
 
You might already have this, but here's a MUD procedure for desmog (see attachement).

Also, I don't have direct experience with those man-a-fre plates (that cover the EGR ports on the intake/exhaust manifolds), but many folks on MUD have commented that they are not thick enough (especially for the exhaust port) and can warp.

Jim C. (@FJ40Jim ) sells a idler pulley, plates and the plugs for the air rail etc. and they are well built.

this is a link to his business or give him a call or send him a PM here on MUD:

http://www.tlcperformance.com/
 

Attachments

  • How to Desmog an FJ60-2 (1).pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 123
Hey that Desmog PDF is great!

I didn't have that when I did mine, just went through all the various threads to come to the same conclusion. Great Job. I do still have JimC's idler pulley sitting on the shelf.
Read through the PDF and it brought back some memories. Maybe some day a second 2F will come with my next TLC - a FJ40

Though today, my 2F has been sent to the recyclers and I am VERY close to getting the SBC installed in the next month.

dougbert
 
Hey that Desmog PDF is great!

I didn't have that when I did mine, just went through all the various threads to come to the same conclusion. Great Job. I do still have JimC's idler pulley sitting on the shelf.
Read through the PDF and it brought back some memories. Maybe some day a second 2F will come with my next TLC - a FJ40

Though today, my 2F has been sent to the recyclers and I am VERY close to getting the SBC installed in the next month.

dougbert

Dougbert,

I can't claim credit for that one...that is someone else's work and I wish I knew who so I could give 'em proper due...I just facilitate the flow of information (and learn while I do it) if I can...

I'm stoked about how close you are on your build. I've been following it for some time and have learned alot, especially appreciate the way you catalog all your learning/experience and log it for the benefit of the rest of us. Good on you!

I read that stuff you posted on your build thread about exhaust, and have a half formulated post myself (to add to the conversation). I'm really interested in figuring out this exhaust stuff because I think it might be one of the best factors to measure/manage/improve the efficiency/performance of these 2F engines (and any internal combustion engine)...will post when I get it sorted out...
 
Dougbert,

I can't claim credit for that one...that is someone else's work and I wish I knew who so I could give 'em proper due...I just facilitate the flow of information (and learn while I do it) if I can...

I'm stoked about how close you are on your build. I've been following it for some time and have learned alot, especially appreciate the way you catalog all your learning/experience and log it for the benefit of the rest of us. Good on you!

I read that stuff you posted on your build thread about exhaust, and have a half formulated post myself (to add to the conversation). I'm really interested in figuring out this exhaust stuff because I think it might be one of the best factors to measure/manage/improve the efficiency/performance of these 2F engines (and any internal combustion engine)...will post when I get it sorted out...

well thanks.

I too simply gathered the information I found and logged it into the build thread. I had found other threads that referred to some operation and just posted a pic of the finished "product" and thought there should have been some intermediate photos of steps on how they arrived there. So in my process I attempted to record as much as I could - sort of a secondary goal of the build. Getting the vehicle running being the primary. LOL

Again, I saved the PDF and give thanks to you for posting what you found, and greater thanks to the author. He should be proud of his work

dougbert
 
Thanks for the info, I was so irritated, but I read about removing the power steering belt and starting the engine, still ticking. Removed the smog pump belt no tick. So I go a refurb and when I removed the faulty s/p fro po metal fins were falling out, glad that's out. I will start collecting all the needed items to "clean up my engine bay" the desmog way! Thanks again
 

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