first pics cause everyone loves a good catastrophic failure.....
this is literally all that was left when I pulled it out of the block. Yes i certainly knew it was on its way out, already had the new one and gaskets in the back of the truck for a couple weeks. you can see one of the bearing shields mangled against the gear. it was original, from a 2000 with 223k on the clock so i think it lived an appropriately long life. reman'd denso went in. the most quiet start up i think i have heard since i bought it about a year ago.
some notes/thoughts of doing the deed:
-if you have a lift, buy a small sturdy footstool. i does wonders.
-i have a 2nd battery mounted on its side so i left the air filter box in and covered. gave me a more even surface area to sit and lay on
-you can certainly pull the whole intake with TB out without removing the passenger side engine hook. after you have it above the studs, it wants to roll out with the passenger side coming up first to get by the hook.
-i did not drain any coolant on purpose but lost about a 1/2 cup from removing the TB with intake.
-i used new intake gaskets, the old ones were toast. new ones were noticeably thicker. never would have thought it would be phenolic sandwiched with metal.
-my cant do it without them tools are a 12" 3/8 wobble ended extension and a quality 3/8" universal/swivel. not the true universal kind, but the impact grade swiveling kind. a magnetic 12mm socket to reinstall the intake nuts/bolts i would add to the next time it has to be done. and a hose pick and hose clamp pliers make life much easier. needle nose pliers to pinch the injector connector WHILE pulling on the wire gently is the way to get those out in 5 mins.
-unplug the coolant temp sensor and other single wire sensor right next to it at the forward/pass corner
-be careful of all machined edges on intake when you will fumble around the intake trying to get it in and out, they are very sharp against sensor connector bodies and wires.
-the big positive wire attachment for the starter is only under the forward most part of that big yellow plastic harness protector and it has its own little hatch. no need to try and open the whole thing. a small pick set will help with that.
-yes you want to pull that 10mm head bolt that holds down the 3 tranny connectors bolted to the top of the bellhousing. that will give you enough wiggle room to get your rube goldberg assemblage of socket and extensions for that PITA bolt. thank you toyota for making them extended length heads.
- did not pull the hard crossover water pipe. did not see any evidence of dried coolant so they stayed.
-i kind of wish i had bought a new set of injectors and grommets and installed while i had the intake out. but it doesnt look like too bad of a job to just pull the fuel rail when it gets warmer in 6 months. oh well.
-i did this outside in december on a new york city street. you will probably have more fun than me....best of luck!
this is literally all that was left when I pulled it out of the block. Yes i certainly knew it was on its way out, already had the new one and gaskets in the back of the truck for a couple weeks. you can see one of the bearing shields mangled against the gear. it was original, from a 2000 with 223k on the clock so i think it lived an appropriately long life. reman'd denso went in. the most quiet start up i think i have heard since i bought it about a year ago.
some notes/thoughts of doing the deed:
-if you have a lift, buy a small sturdy footstool. i does wonders.
-i have a 2nd battery mounted on its side so i left the air filter box in and covered. gave me a more even surface area to sit and lay on
-you can certainly pull the whole intake with TB out without removing the passenger side engine hook. after you have it above the studs, it wants to roll out with the passenger side coming up first to get by the hook.
-i did not drain any coolant on purpose but lost about a 1/2 cup from removing the TB with intake.
-i used new intake gaskets, the old ones were toast. new ones were noticeably thicker. never would have thought it would be phenolic sandwiched with metal.
-my cant do it without them tools are a 12" 3/8 wobble ended extension and a quality 3/8" universal/swivel. not the true universal kind, but the impact grade swiveling kind. a magnetic 12mm socket to reinstall the intake nuts/bolts i would add to the next time it has to be done. and a hose pick and hose clamp pliers make life much easier. needle nose pliers to pinch the injector connector WHILE pulling on the wire gently is the way to get those out in 5 mins.
-unplug the coolant temp sensor and other single wire sensor right next to it at the forward/pass corner
-be careful of all machined edges on intake when you will fumble around the intake trying to get it in and out, they are very sharp against sensor connector bodies and wires.
-the big positive wire attachment for the starter is only under the forward most part of that big yellow plastic harness protector and it has its own little hatch. no need to try and open the whole thing. a small pick set will help with that.
-yes you want to pull that 10mm head bolt that holds down the 3 tranny connectors bolted to the top of the bellhousing. that will give you enough wiggle room to get your rube goldberg assemblage of socket and extensions for that PITA bolt. thank you toyota for making them extended length heads.
- did not pull the hard crossover water pipe. did not see any evidence of dried coolant so they stayed.
-i kind of wish i had bought a new set of injectors and grommets and installed while i had the intake out. but it doesnt look like too bad of a job to just pull the fuel rail when it gets warmer in 6 months. oh well.
-i did this outside in december on a new york city street. you will probably have more fun than me....best of luck!
