A Pillar Rust (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tonto18
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There is as it is in the seam, You have two options deal with it now, deal with it later.
Take a wire wheel and strip off the paint there and as much scale rust as you can. Pull the seam sealer out and see what is what.
From there take a screw driver and start poking to see if you have holes or how big they are.
It may not be so bad, but there you will want to weld new metal. Really cut and weld patches is a permanent fix. Cleanup treat and then fill over is a quick fix and could last years.
Take a wire wheel and strip off the paint there and as much scale rust as you can. Pull the seam sealer out and see what is what.
From there take a screw driver and start poking to see if you have holes or how big they are.
It may not be so bad, but there you will want to weld new metal. Really cut and weld patches is a permanent fix. Cleanup treat and then fill over is a quick fix and could last years.
unfortunately you most likely will find more than what you see in the pic. I'm just amazed that the CA rigs rust from the top down and up north we go from the bottom up.
georgebj60
SILVER Star
Please do keep us posted as to what you find. We see a lot of trucks for sale with similar rust - so it would be good to know how extensive it is under the bubbling paint. And good luck with the repair, hope it all goes well.
- Thread starter
- #7
Gents, spent some time with a well regarded owner of a local body shop this morning. His suggestion was to sell it and look for something cleaner in light of my desire to make it perfect. His other suggestion was to just drive and enjoy it. Going to think it over.
georgebj60
SILVER Star
Wow, really? Are there other areas of concern too?
I too am on a quest to have perfect truck, but I also realize that ALL 60's have rust somewhere, it's just a matter of finding it before it gets out of hand. Keep us posted....
I too am on a quest to have perfect truck, but I also realize that ALL 60's have rust somewhere, it's just a matter of finding it before it gets out of hand. Keep us posted....
Perfect = having all the required or desirable elements, qualities, or characteristics; as good as it is possible to be
Perfect = make (something) completely free from faults or defects, or as close to such a condition as possible
So with that, expect to pay well over 50K (and I am low I am sure) for a perfect fully restored rust free (ya right) example.
Otherwise drop some pics here of the rust, tell the body shop owner to STFU and make it perfect for you.
Rust can be cut out and welded in. Good body shops are hard to find. Even harder are ones that want to work on old vehicles with owners that do not want to spend a lot.
Example is paint. A good paint job is 7-10K a crappy paint job that will be good and last as long as you protect it is 1.5-3K.
Huge difference on a vehicle that came from the factory with a single stage paint.
It is up to you.
Mine is far from perfect, but perfect for me. When done mechanically it will be great (perfect no but as close as I can get)
Body and rust, it will be semi perfect. I swear these started to rust on the showroom floor.
- Thread starter
- #10
Appreciate that, Willard. Part of the problem is I don’t know what I don’t know on all of this stuff!
Perfect in my mind was rust free and solid for as long as I’m around. Not necessarily showroom floor or showcase perfect.
Perfect in my mind was rust free and solid for as long as I’m around. Not necessarily showroom floor or showcase perfect.
I hate rust more than most. After battling it for years in BJ42's and Ford trucks I hate it. But it is the nature of the beast.
I grew up on the Canadian west coast and rust is a fact of life. Now I am on the US east cost and rust is beyond a fact of life (my wife's 2004 Yukon is starting)
I have rust on the quarters, on the floor and will have to replace my C-channels at some point.
Quarters I have done one using a patch panel. The other will be done once I get back from my vacation (it is coming with me) and will be painted after I get back. (no time before hand).
Floors had rust and have been cut and patched with new metal. Like others this will be my daily driver and I wanted it to be as perfect as possible as well. It will be, but most of the work will have been done by me. If I could paint it in my garage (wife said now way!) then 95% would have been done by me.
My 60 grew up in Illinois and Rhode Island with a little stint in NH.
I have learned 3 things from it.
1. As my chassis was completely oiled it saved many bolts from breaking off, and saved the chassis.
2. That oil is also a curse as it holds sand and dirt like it is scarce.
3. These 6x series have a ton of debris traps that then trap moisture hence the rust.
What I am trying to get at is this. If the rust is not bad and most important the frame is solid and not rusting out, then you are set.
You can fix rust, not only will you know it was deal with, but how. Last thing you need it s body shop that patched it then put layers of bondo over it.
His suggestion was to sell it and look for something cleaner in light of my desire to make it perfect.
There are no perfect trucks. That rust can be nicely and effectively fixed. Working around the headliner might make it a bit trickier. Many shops don't want to deal with rust issues, as they make a lot more money doing insurance jobs, so that could explain his reluctance to fix it.
There are no perfect trucks. That rust can be nicely and effectively fixed. Working around the headliner might make it a bit trickier. Many shops don't want to deal with rust issues, as they make a lot more money doing insurance jobs, so that could explain his reluctance to fix it.
- Thread starter
- #14
SteveH and Willard, appreciate your input.
I probably should have said "solid and clean" instead of perfect. Would want it clean enough to not be noticeable, and also done well enough to get it all and keep it from growing. Floor pan also has a rusted out hole in it. Other spots include smaller areas around the driver side rear cargo window, and driver side door frame. Both front doors also have rust along bottom.
I'll work on posting some pictures.
I probably should have said "solid and clean" instead of perfect. Would want it clean enough to not be noticeable, and also done well enough to get it all and keep it from growing. Floor pan also has a rusted out hole in it. Other spots include smaller areas around the driver side rear cargo window, and driver side door frame. Both front doors also have rust along bottom.
I'll work on posting some pictures.
If you don’t have the time, skill or money right now to have the rusted areas cut out and new metal welded in, you can always just carefully wire wheel those rusted areas, treat the areas with a rust converter or rust encapsulater, then tape off and seal any seams and spray paint to match. Won’t look perfect, but will control the rust for a while and keep it from spreading.
Here are some of the products recommended to me that worked very well depending on the application.
With everything out, it makes it easier to find all of the problem areas.
And if you have rust in more hidden areas, it really doesn’t need to be pretty, just enough to suppress the rust and protect it. You could probably do most of that stuff yourself, and wouldn’t cost that much to do it. Anyways, my two cents.
Here are some of the products recommended to me that worked very well depending on the application.
With everything out, it makes it easier to find all of the problem areas.
And if you have rust in more hidden areas, it really doesn’t need to be pretty, just enough to suppress the rust and protect it. You could probably do most of that stuff yourself, and wouldn’t cost that much to do it. Anyways, my two cents.
Sounds easy enough actually. Funny my drivers cargo window shows rust as well. I need to pull the window to fix the rust correctly.
Note I am no pro body man (I work in IT) and if you have never done body work, the key is take your time and use quality products (like above).
hj 60
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slam it, slash it, burn the vuc out of it, don't talk about it, start work, finish then drive it.
good luck,
don't count the hours.
good luck,
don't count the hours.
You could wire wheel it, and slow it down. But the rust is coming from inside.
It will need to be cut out and patched. My cruiser has this to a lesser extent. I have wire wheeled mine and also drilled a small hole to spray oil inside the pillar to sllloooow it down.
It will need to be cut out and patched. My cruiser has this to a lesser extent. I have wire wheeled mine and also drilled a small hole to spray oil inside the pillar to sllloooow it down.
- Thread starter
- #20
Thank you!!!!
